Brake shims and lube

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 9, 2008
Messages
23,659
Location
NH
I probably asked, and would have forgotten the answer by now. Brake lube on shims: always necessary, or as necessary?

I did brakes on both Toyotas this weekend. Truck used to be lightly driven, so I was not surprised to find lube on the shims up front. Rear shims were dry, might have been installed dry for all I know (bought as a CPO). Camry front and rear shims are dry. Neither vehicle has objectional brake noise (although the Tundra might, but only when braking and cornering just right--don't think it's related).

I bought a tub of StaLube brake grease, and use that every six months or so to redo sliding surfaces. Invariably it's all washed off after six months. One time I slathered the rear shims on the Camry with it--and was informed that the brakes were squealing. Few months later, no noise. I'm guessing I could stand to find some better grease, but since it's not a bad idea to take it all apart every six months, I'm hard pressed to change.

As I get ready to do replace the Camry brakes (again!) I was planning on not greasing the shims. I know the shim kit will come with grease, but I'd rather take it apart and grease later if I have to, than to run the risk of noise.

[I did a rear pad slap on the Camry around 60k. One pad got stuck and wore at an angle; I freed it up but it then ran hot, so I slapped a set of Federated ceramics on, despite pads only being maybe half worn. Upon inspection this past week at 105k (so maybe 45k on these pads), these replacements are over half worn, but one pad shows signs of separation, so replacement time. New pads, one new rotor, all OEM I think.]
 
I used a CRC brake product call SILARAMIC on the shims of my 04 Camry in October and no problems so far. Used Sil-Glyde on the pins as I have used that for years with no problems.
 
Sil-Glide for pins, been thinking of getting some. Could try that on one side and see if lasts longer.
 
Shims being the flat things on back of pads or those stainless clips that Critic calls abutment clips?
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Sil-Glide for pins, been thinking of getting some. Could try that on one side and see if lasts longer.
I learned the hard way that Permatex brake lubes of all colors will swell the lower pin bushing to the extent that the pin is very hard to get out. Sil-Glyde stays in for two years. Probably will go longer.
 
I did come across a TSB when trying to figure out what shims to get (two come up for my car); a TSB 0385-08. I don't think we ever had noise while backing up though. Maybe when I used grease on the shims, maybe.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Shims being the flat things on back of pads or those stainless clips that Critic calls abutment clips?


Shims being the flat things on the back of the pads. Toyota calls the stainless clips that the pads slide on "fit kits" (they call the shims, err, shims).
 
In the past I used to spray Permatex Disc Brake Quiet on the back of brake pads before installing them, but not anymore. A year ago I did the rear brakes on my stepson's Saab 9-2x (Subaru Impreza in disguise) and used Wagner ThermoQuiet pads. I was about to spray Disc Brake Quiet, but noticed the instructions said to not use lube or any other material on the back of the pads. Those pads did have a "shim" or whatever fastened to the back, I suppose to limit noise. I've also done the brakes on my Saab 9-5 and Dodge Ram and used nothing on the backs of the brake pads, with good results. The only thing I lubricate now are the pins or sliding portion of the calipers.
 
I had previously installed my Subaru's shims without lube and they would squeal when engaging the brake. Now I lube them with Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Lube and they don't make a peep.
 
I use Molykote M77 from Honda for shims. You can get it in a decent size tube for $15. One tube will probably last you a decade.
 
I put lube anytime I service brakes and it may just look dry. The less I use the more it just ends up looking like a mash of brake dust collected. I'm sure most would think it's dry, but I know that I put lube on it... just not a glob. Just enough to wet it... that's all you need at least in my experience.
 
Alright, going to order the molykote m77 and try that.
 
Originally Posted By: eljefino
Shims being the flat things on back of pads or those stainless clips that Critic calls abutment clips?


"abutment clips" LOL!
crackmeup2.gif
 
oem from factory has always worked well for me.
Something wrong with the entire US brake industry in my opinion, Im old and have never had replacement parts installed by a wide variety of installers work as well as the new car brakes. replaced parts - they usually cause warping rotors or odd pad wear before the pads wear out.
my 94 camry went 100k in mixed driving before pad replacement. My 04 highlander 82000 miles. Most bigger heavier GM cars in the 80s wore out front at 25000 miles.
 
Last edited:
Sil-Glyde for any metal/rubber contact like around the caliper piston seal and on the caliper slide bolts and seals.

For the pad slide clips, a copper based lube is probably the recommended.
 
Got the m77 grease the other week; new rotors and pads came in the mail yesterday. This weekend I'll swap 'em on, and then in six months see how much m77 grease is left when I check in the spring.
 
I just stopped at my local Napa to find something similar to M77 for my upcoming brake job on my Caravan. I picked up an 8oz jar of Permatex Ceramic Extreme brake parts lube, because everything else just looked like regular anti-seize. Almost had a heart attack at the ~$21 price tag, but it should last me a decade or longer. Napa guy was shocked too. http://www.permatex.com/products-2/produ...ubricant-detail
 
Originally Posted By: JTK
Sil-Glyde for any metal/rubber contact like around the caliper piston seal and on the caliper slide bolts and seals.

For the pad slide clips, a copper based lube is probably the recommended.


Will that slow down rust underneath the clips? I've been trying to smear grease on there, then install the clip, then grease the clip. I don't think the StaLube I've been using is effective at slowing down rust.

Would the m77 be good for here, or should I find some of this copper based stuff too?
 
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: JTK
Sil-Glyde for any metal/rubber contact like around the caliper piston seal and on the caliper slide bolts and seals.

For the pad slide clips, a copper based lube is probably the recommended.


Will that slow down rust underneath the clips? I've been trying to smear grease on there, then install the clip, then grease the clip. I don't think the StaLube I've been using is effective at slowing down rust.

Would the m77 be good for here, or should I find some of this copper based stuff too?


I believe that's what the M77 is for, to be used on and under the pad retaining clips and the metal/metal moving surfaces required for the pads. I then use Sil-Glyde for the caliper pins and rub a thin layer of Sil-Glyde on rubber boots and bushings.

I have been using Sil-Glyde on/around the retaining clips, but I'm not sure that's the best option for that and why I picked up the jar of "CeramicExtreme" brake lube.
 
Last edited:
I would skip the Permatex Ceramic Extreme brake lube product I posted about above. I used it yesterday doing the front brakes on our Grand Caravan. Maybe it's a great product and was just my particular usage, but man what a mess. It's super sticky and stringy even at a ~70F room temp. I applied what I thought was tiny dabs to the brake pad tabs and managed to get it EVERYWHERE once the pads were in place and everything buttoned up. The stuff is purple and pretty much so was everything else when I was done. It's like stepping in dog poop. Tough to get rid of.

That's one of my biggest struggles with DIY brake jobs. I could have the rotors spotless off the vehicle and will still manage to get stuff on them on the install. You can still clean the outside of the rotor, but the inside, not so much.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top