Originally Posted By: Clevy
If it's got the oil life monitor just follow it.
What a cool car. Is it fuel injected or is there a carb capable manifold out now for these kinds of swaps.
Must be a blast to drive.
No, we're going to go full factory fuel injection crate engine. I got defeated on any "**** you'll be tinkering with all the time".
I do want the full function of the VVT system and the better drivability. Tunability as well.
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If it had an oil life monitor you could follow it but if not you'll probably want to change it based on time maybe every couple of years.
Quaker State Ultimate Durability should do the trick
Dunno yet whether or not OLM functionality can be maintained or not. Definitely a good idea. I suppose anything can be done using a factory computer and harness arrangement.
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Hmmm, had to look that one up and found this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XV73f9d-Lg
At the end the guy holds up a for sale sign with all the specs on it. Not sure about miles either.
Pennzoil Ultra would be my vote. thumbsup
I've had my brain in the same place. We're going to find a good, mint, factory example and have it converted. Buying someone else's conversion was voted against lol.
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What a rarity
A bubble back Capri (Fox bodied Mustang, not euro Capri)
And a factory ASC convertible one at that
http://www.ascmclaren.com/capripics.htm
We're gonna need pictures
Will when we get it. The search has only begun, and then the work.
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^
The one that got away...
smile
Yeah, I know. The only way I won the muscle/pony car battle was to put drop-top on the table. Failed to convince her that a Shelby Cobra replica would be just as good.
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yea, it depends on your decision on how you want to do maintenance.
At this point it's more about general checkups rather then just the oil.
I personally have a similar garage car, but it gets taken in once a year to the quick change that does an honest job. So it gets bulk conventional for a 2000/year.
The is because the place also Washes the car, tires get air, wiper fluid filled up, and so on.
I suppose just pulling the trigger on a good oil and UOA'ing to figure things out would not be a bad idea.
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You're living the dream. The only thing I can say about using 5w-20, is get a synthetic, you certainly don't want it to shear at all. Not a fan of these thin oils and I think they are mainly recommended to pass CAFE standards rather than being what's best for the engine. Personally I'd probably use 10w-30 in a warm climate such as Florida.
5w20 in my Navigator has been spectacular, so if it does as well in the Coyote, I'm all for it. Only thing my 5.4 3V didn't like about it was the phaser rattle. That's not the oil's fault, though.
