Oil's affect on motorcycle gear shift feel?
- Thread starter digitalSniperX1
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Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
I'm going to give redline a try.
I've tried pretty much every oil I could find over the years, in a succession of mostly high performance, Inline4, Sportbikes. My favorite based on how the engine runs, and the transmission shifts, has been Motul 300V 4T, followed by Redline M/C oil.
I'm going to give redline a try.
I've tried pretty much every oil I could find over the years, in a succession of mostly high performance, Inline4, Sportbikes. My favorite based on how the engine runs, and the transmission shifts, has been Motul 300V 4T, followed by Redline M/C oil.
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Can Am Spyders have clunky shifts and over time I've used Amsoil, Valvoline, Rotella T, CAstrol, Motul, and Mobil 1. None made any significant difference that lasted. Often with fresh oil for first thousand or two miles it "seemed" to shift quieter, but in long run:
all the same.
all the same.
Originally Posted By: ledslinger
I've only had my V45 Sabre for 33 years, but only one oil ever caused poor shifting. I drained the Valvo synth 4T 10W40 after 500 miles. Thought my hydraulic clutch system was the culprit and then changed the oil on a whim. The Castrol Act Evo 10W40 immediately shifted like butter. The Valvo synth is going in the mower.
Looking at a VF700S this weekend!!
I've tried a number of oils but find my best price, mileage, shift feel is with the 15w40 HDEO's. I usually stick with RT as I can often find it on sale and in any number of stores.
I've only had my V45 Sabre for 33 years, but only one oil ever caused poor shifting. I drained the Valvo synth 4T 10W40 after 500 miles. Thought my hydraulic clutch system was the culprit and then changed the oil on a whim. The Castrol Act Evo 10W40 immediately shifted like butter. The Valvo synth is going in the mower.
Looking at a VF700S this weekend!!
I've tried a number of oils but find my best price, mileage, shift feel is with the 15w40 HDEO's. I usually stick with RT as I can often find it on sale and in any number of stores.
After 25 years dealing with customers I've learned its not a question of
oil so much as a question of technique and clutch drag...
FZ8 owner was experiencing notchy shifting on Yama Lube but it wasn't
the oil it was clutch drag... your gears can't shift smoothly if your
clutch is part way engaged... here's how to check your clutch for
drag...
1 Place your bike on the center stand...
2 Start engine and establish a steady idle...
3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear...
4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake...
does this action drag down the engine rpms???
If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...
Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...
RC30 and RC45 owners will ask for the same slick shifting oil that
made their friend's RC30 and RC45 shift so smoothly after it left the
Busy Little Shop... I hated to break it to them but it wasn't the oil
that made the difference it was rider technique and the elimination of
clutch drag... so before I will dump one slick shifting oil for the
next slick shifting oil I work with them on their technique and their
clutch... then and only then will they understand that they were
fooled into thinking it was the oil when in fact it was technique and
clutch...
I think we are all after the same thing... smooth shift without upsetting
the suspension... the secret is moving the foot quicker than clutch or
throttle... go easy with the clutch and throttle but move your foot
quicker... but worry there is no such thing as too quick... its early
form of seem less shifting...
oil so much as a question of technique and clutch drag...
FZ8 owner was experiencing notchy shifting on Yama Lube but it wasn't
the oil it was clutch drag... your gears can't shift smoothly if your
clutch is part way engaged... here's how to check your clutch for
drag...
1 Place your bike on the center stand...
2 Start engine and establish a steady idle...
3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear...
4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake...
does this action drag down the engine rpms???
If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...
Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...
RC30 and RC45 owners will ask for the same slick shifting oil that
made their friend's RC30 and RC45 shift so smoothly after it left the
Busy Little Shop... I hated to break it to them but it wasn't the oil
that made the difference it was rider technique and the elimination of
clutch drag... so before I will dump one slick shifting oil for the
next slick shifting oil I work with them on their technique and their
clutch... then and only then will they understand that they were
fooled into thinking it was the oil when in fact it was technique and
clutch...
I think we are all after the same thing... smooth shift without upsetting
the suspension... the secret is moving the foot quicker than clutch or
throttle... go easy with the clutch and throttle but move your foot
quicker... but worry there is no such thing as too quick... its early
form of seem less shifting...
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- Jul 2, 2007
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- 5,294
BLS, that is a good procedure, I am going to check that today (hydraulic clutch on the Duc).
I do have an emerging theory about my Multistrada and oil, and that is that it may not "like" oils that don't have boron. Or inversely, it likes boron. Subjective, unscientific basis founded on "oils tried" in the following sequence since bike was new:
- Factory fill: unk oil but believed a 10W40. Butter smooth and quiet
- Spectro 4 15W50 (Grp IV): notchy and some clutch clatter in neutral
- Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40 (Grp III+/Grp V blend): Butter smooth and quiet
- Amsoil MCT 10W40 (Grp IV): notchy and clutch clatter in neutral
- Silkolene 15W50 (Grp V): Butter smooth and quiet
- Spectro 4 15W50 (got a deal on it): notchy and neutral clatter again
Both the Mobil 1 and the Silkolene have a significant amount of boron in the add pack. The current fill of Spectro 4 has 600 miles on it and I'm starting to hear the clatter phasing in in the clutch when idling in neutral once the oil is hot. Highly disappointed, but the master tech where I bought the bike swears by Spectro and races on it, and I got a killer deal on a 4 liter jug of it recently so thought I'd try it again. The engine exhaust note at higher rpm's has a raspier more treble-like tone to it also on the Spectro, but that could be a Grp IV PAO thing because it sounded similar on the Amsoil (same clutch clatter too). And btw, this is not the noisy Ducati dry clutch that is infamous for noise, this is the quiet wet one.
I am so ocd about things I know I'm going to end up dumping the Spectro prematurely and going back to Silkolene Grp V oil. I think the bike just likes ester and boron.
P.S. tried good ole Shell Rotella T 15W40 once, engine vibrated like [censored] in the upper rpms shifting was notchy, dumped the Rotella by 800 miles.
I do have an emerging theory about my Multistrada and oil, and that is that it may not "like" oils that don't have boron. Or inversely, it likes boron. Subjective, unscientific basis founded on "oils tried" in the following sequence since bike was new:
- Factory fill: unk oil but believed a 10W40. Butter smooth and quiet
- Spectro 4 15W50 (Grp IV): notchy and some clutch clatter in neutral
- Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W40 (Grp III+/Grp V blend): Butter smooth and quiet
- Amsoil MCT 10W40 (Grp IV): notchy and clutch clatter in neutral
- Silkolene 15W50 (Grp V): Butter smooth and quiet
- Spectro 4 15W50 (got a deal on it): notchy and neutral clatter again
Both the Mobil 1 and the Silkolene have a significant amount of boron in the add pack. The current fill of Spectro 4 has 600 miles on it and I'm starting to hear the clatter phasing in in the clutch when idling in neutral once the oil is hot. Highly disappointed, but the master tech where I bought the bike swears by Spectro and races on it, and I got a killer deal on a 4 liter jug of it recently so thought I'd try it again. The engine exhaust note at higher rpm's has a raspier more treble-like tone to it also on the Spectro, but that could be a Grp IV PAO thing because it sounded similar on the Amsoil (same clutch clatter too). And btw, this is not the noisy Ducati dry clutch that is infamous for noise, this is the quiet wet one.
I am so ocd about things I know I'm going to end up dumping the Spectro prematurely and going back to Silkolene Grp V oil. I think the bike just likes ester and boron.
P.S. tried good ole Shell Rotella T 15W40 once, engine vibrated like [censored] in the upper rpms shifting was notchy, dumped the Rotella by 800 miles.
Interesting theory LoneRanger but the trouble with subjective unscientific basis founded on
"oils tried" is the fact that one riders notchy oil is another riders smooth as butter oil...
"oils tried" is the fact that one riders notchy oil is another riders smooth as butter oil...
After 8 seasons on my FZ1, I improved the shifting significantly by adjusting my shift linkage. I adjusted to raise the shift peg to give more room for my boot. It's like a different bike. What I have noticed over the years (with different oils) is the level of pop going into first gear, 1st start of the day, pull the properly adjusted clutch in and drop into first gear.
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2007
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- 5,294
Main issue with my Duc is 1-2 shift. Try to be smooth and easy usually means I miss 2nd and rev in neutral, being firm to ensure engaging 2nd and it's a clanker. Every other gear movement I can finesse pretty well.
So I added oil up to nearly the top of the sightglass and it felt fine. I did try what BLS said and clutch engages wheel does not spin. And I did pull the lever in and shift then release.no race condition between my foot and my hand. But again, no crunchy shifting after adding something like 6oz of additional oil and riding it the next day. Maybe I was just tired 
I see BLS is quite knowledgeable and see he uses car oil in his bike. So I got to ask him if he thinks using car oil in a > 200hp motorcycle is asking for trouble. If there is a chance using the wrong oil for a wet clutch then I'm thinking this bike will uncover that.
I see BLS is quite knowledgeable and see he uses car oil in his bike. So I got to ask him if he thinks using car oil in a > 200hp motorcycle is asking for trouble. If there is a chance using the wrong oil for a wet clutch then I'm thinking this bike will uncover that.
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Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
I see BLS is quite knowledgeable and see he uses car oil in his bike. So I got to ask him if he thinks using car oil in a > 200hp motorcycle is asking for trouble. If there is a chance using the wrong oil for a wet clutch then I'm thinking this bike will uncover that.
I decided to test whether a motorcycle specific oil produced better
numbers than a Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO)... Selected were Asmoil
MCT 10w30 and Mobil 1 AFE 0w30... granted the miles are low but they
are miles not in moderation either more like tracks speeds which
simulates the distant my customers cover in a year of racing or track
days... my customers are usually consummate riders with enough spare
cash to afford to own any exotic homologated racer they desire from
the Golden Years of World Superbikes or a Desmosedici...
Amsoil 10w30 versus Mobil 0w30
Depending on your bank account I recommend either $5.40 a quart Mobil 1 5w30 API SN
because it was ranked #10 out of 156 oils tested for wear protection by 540Rat... or
ranked #4 5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T synthetic Motorcycle specific about $14.25 per bottle.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
I see BLS is quite knowledgeable and see he uses car oil in his bike. So I got to ask him if he thinks using car oil in a > 200hp motorcycle is asking for trouble. If there is a chance using the wrong oil for a wet clutch then I'm thinking this bike will uncover that.
I decided to test whether a motorcycle specific oil produced better
numbers than a Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO)... Selected were Asmoil
MCT 10w30 and Mobil 1 AFE 0w30... granted the miles are low but they
are miles not in moderation either more like tracks speeds which
simulates the distant my customers cover in a year of racing or track
days... my customers are usually consummate riders with enough spare
cash to afford to own any exotic homologated racer they desire from
the Golden Years of World Superbikes or a Desmosedici...
Amsoil 10w30 versus Mobil 0w30
Depending on your bank account I recommend either $5.40 a quart Mobil 1 5w30 API SN
because it was ranked #10 out of 156 oils tested for wear protection by 540Rat... or
ranked #4 5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T synthetic Motorcycle specific about $14.25 per bottle.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
I think you will find conventional oils will always feel like (and do) shift better. (softer with less noise) I think most who tried agree.
The ones that do not notice a difference only tried synthetics and most synthetics will feel the same.
Im talking apples to apples, same viscosity.
The ones that do not notice a difference only tried synthetics and most synthetics will feel the same.
Im talking apples to apples, same viscosity.
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Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
I see BLS is quite knowledgeable and see he uses car oil in his bike. So I got to ask him if he thinks using car oil in a > 200hp motorcycle is asking for trouble. If there is a chance using the wrong oil for a wet clutch then I'm thinking this bike will uncover that.
I decided to test whether a motorcycle specific oil produced better
numbers than a Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO)... Selected were Asmoil
MCT 10w30 and Mobil 1 AFE 0w30... granted the miles are low but they
are miles not in moderation either more like tracks speeds which
simulates the distant my customers cover in a year of racing or track
days... my customers are usually consummate riders with enough spare
cash to afford to own any exotic homologated racer they desire from
the Golden Years of World Superbikes or a Desmosedici...
Amsoil 10w30 versus Mobil 0w30
Depending on your bank account I recommend either $5.40 a quart Mobil 1 5w30 API SN
because it was ranked #10 out of 156 oils tested for wear protection by 540Rat... or
ranked #4 5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T synthetic Motorcycle specific about $14.25 per bottle.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
I see the oils you used seemed to shear down pretty quickly after less then 700 miles. This bike must be a Sunshine Sunday only rider. But if you rode that bike for 2500 miles regularly, I don't believe the oil would stand up for that long. And to change it out so soon wouldn't be very economical or practical for anyone that doesn't love changing oil every other weekend.,,
Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
I see BLS is quite knowledgeable and see he uses car oil in his bike. So I got to ask him if he thinks using car oil in a > 200hp motorcycle is asking for trouble. If there is a chance using the wrong oil for a wet clutch then I'm thinking this bike will uncover that.
I decided to test whether a motorcycle specific oil produced better
numbers than a Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO)... Selected were Asmoil
MCT 10w30 and Mobil 1 AFE 0w30... granted the miles are low but they
are miles not in moderation either more like tracks speeds which
simulates the distant my customers cover in a year of racing or track
days... my customers are usually consummate riders with enough spare
cash to afford to own any exotic homologated racer they desire from
the Golden Years of World Superbikes or a Desmosedici...
Amsoil 10w30 versus Mobil 0w30
Depending on your bank account I recommend either $5.40 a quart Mobil 1 5w30 API SN
because it was ranked #10 out of 156 oils tested for wear protection by 540Rat... or
ranked #4 5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T synthetic Motorcycle specific about $14.25 per bottle.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
I see the oils you used seemed to shear down pretty quickly after less then 700 miles. This bike must be a Sunshine Sunday only rider. But if you rode that bike for 2500 miles regularly, I don't believe the oil would stand up for that long. And to change it out so soon wouldn't be very economical or practical for anyone that doesn't love changing oil every other weekend.,,
I’ve never experienced one oil being "smoother" or “more slippery"... However I do notice, regardless of oil, at some point shifting gets increasingly notchier and an oil change resolves that. That said, some bikes are notchier than others, regardless.
Originally Posted By: bmwpowere36m3
I’ve never experienced one oil being "smoother" or “more slippery"... However I do notice, regardless of oil, at some point shifting gets increasingly notchier and an oil change resolves that. That said, some bikes are notchier than others, regardless.
I think this is true. I attribute it to two factors.
The viscosity change in a shared sump bike
The placebo effect in the mind
JMHO
I’ve never experienced one oil being "smoother" or “more slippery"... However I do notice, regardless of oil, at some point shifting gets increasingly notchier and an oil change resolves that. That said, some bikes are notchier than others, regardless.
I think this is true. I attribute it to two factors.
The viscosity change in a shared sump bike
The placebo effect in the mind
JMHO
FWIW, I've read that Kawasaki's synthetic oil is Motul's ester based oil. I've found it as low as $9.99/quart. I've not researched it to know for sure.
I guess my concern using car oil is a long term negative affect. I've never had an issue with a clutch slipping but that doesn't mean I won't have an issue Over repeated use with mileage.
Originally Posted By: BusyLittleShop
Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
I see BLS is quite knowledgeable and see he uses car oil in his bike. So I got to ask him if he thinks using car oil in a > 200hp motorcycle is asking for trouble. If there is a chance using the wrong oil for a wet clutch then I'm thinking this bike will uncover that.
I decided to test whether a motorcycle specific oil produced better
numbers than a Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO)... Selected were Asmoil
MCT 10w30 and Mobil 1 AFE 0w30... granted the miles are low but they
are miles not in moderation either more like tracks speeds which
simulates the distant my customers cover in a year of racing or track
days... my customers are usually consummate riders with enough spare
cash to afford to own any exotic homologated racer they desire from
the Golden Years of World Superbikes or a Desmosedici...
Amsoil 10w30 versus Mobil 0w30
Depending on your bank account I recommend either $5.40 a quart Mobil 1 5w30 API SN
because it was ranked #10 out of 156 oils tested for wear protection by 540Rat... or
ranked #4 5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T synthetic Motorcycle specific about $14.25 per bottle.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
You actually give 540rat testing protocol merit? After everything you obviously haven't learned since your arrival I guess I shouldn't be surprised.
Pert plus tests high on 540rat's testing method too,are you going to start recommending that too?
Hillarious.
Haven't you learned yet that you can't compare wear between different oils via a cheap used oil analysis. I would have thought you learned that by now.
Unless the engine was operated identically on both run of oil the wear numbers cannot be compared,and in reality even if they were operated identically they still can't be compared. A used oil analysis isn't meant for wear. It's meant to test oil condition and contamination. And a few ppm is nothing more than noise.
I wish you would quit spreading incorrect info. It's getting very old and I'm getting tired of correcting you. Why you can't accept these facts is beyond me.
Digitalsniper. Using an automotive oil in a shared sumo bike is absolutely stupid. Pmco's are friction modified which will ruin your clutch. It's not going to happen overnight however it will shorten the life of your clutch.
Busylittleshop has no business recommending anything using the protocols he's described and his advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.
Now you can use Diesel engine oils. They aren't friction modified to the degree that pmco's are and usually are high in their anti-wear agent levels which is exactly what you want in a shared sump lube.
I have been using conventional rotella 15w-40 in my shared sump bikes and my Harley,both in the engine and primary. The Harley is highly modified well above stock power levels and I'm still on the stock clutch.
Now an hdeo in my experience doesn't shear fast. In fact shift feel remains consistent right up til I'm ready to change the oil.
I used to use high priced synthetics in my bikes til I clued in. I stick to 3000 mile intervals. A waste for a synthetic oil. Rotella maintains shift feel until about 4000 miles on the Honda 750 before it gets notchy. The venture just starts getting notchy at 3000 miles.
I change the oil in my primary same time as the engine on my Harley.
Bike oils aren't worth the price in my opinion. Not when you can buy an hdeo for half the price to run the same amount of miles.
I've also found that rotella lasts longer as far as shift feel vs m1 4t and mogul 4t 10w-40. Because it's a 15w-40 it resists shear better than a 10w-40,at least that's been my experience.
No way would I use a 30 grade in a motorcycle. Not one I want to keep,unless it's a monograde and sheer proof.
Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
I see BLS is quite knowledgeable and see he uses car oil in his bike. So I got to ask him if he thinks using car oil in a > 200hp motorcycle is asking for trouble. If there is a chance using the wrong oil for a wet clutch then I'm thinking this bike will uncover that.
I decided to test whether a motorcycle specific oil produced better
numbers than a Passenger Car Motor Oil (PCMO)... Selected were Asmoil
MCT 10w30 and Mobil 1 AFE 0w30... granted the miles are low but they
are miles not in moderation either more like tracks speeds which
simulates the distant my customers cover in a year of racing or track
days... my customers are usually consummate riders with enough spare
cash to afford to own any exotic homologated racer they desire from
the Golden Years of World Superbikes or a Desmosedici...
Amsoil 10w30 versus Mobil 0w30
Depending on your bank account I recommend either $5.40 a quart Mobil 1 5w30 API SN
because it was ranked #10 out of 156 oils tested for wear protection by 540Rat... or
ranked #4 5W30 Motul 300V Ester Core 4T synthetic Motorcycle specific about $14.25 per bottle.
https://540ratblog.wordpress.com/
You actually give 540rat testing protocol merit? After everything you obviously haven't learned since your arrival I guess I shouldn't be surprised.
Pert plus tests high on 540rat's testing method too,are you going to start recommending that too?
Hillarious.
Haven't you learned yet that you can't compare wear between different oils via a cheap used oil analysis. I would have thought you learned that by now.
Unless the engine was operated identically on both run of oil the wear numbers cannot be compared,and in reality even if they were operated identically they still can't be compared. A used oil analysis isn't meant for wear. It's meant to test oil condition and contamination. And a few ppm is nothing more than noise.
I wish you would quit spreading incorrect info. It's getting very old and I'm getting tired of correcting you. Why you can't accept these facts is beyond me.
Digitalsniper. Using an automotive oil in a shared sumo bike is absolutely stupid. Pmco's are friction modified which will ruin your clutch. It's not going to happen overnight however it will shorten the life of your clutch.
Busylittleshop has no business recommending anything using the protocols he's described and his advice is worth exactly what you paid for it.
Now you can use Diesel engine oils. They aren't friction modified to the degree that pmco's are and usually are high in their anti-wear agent levels which is exactly what you want in a shared sump lube.
I have been using conventional rotella 15w-40 in my shared sump bikes and my Harley,both in the engine and primary. The Harley is highly modified well above stock power levels and I'm still on the stock clutch.
Now an hdeo in my experience doesn't shear fast. In fact shift feel remains consistent right up til I'm ready to change the oil.
I used to use high priced synthetics in my bikes til I clued in. I stick to 3000 mile intervals. A waste for a synthetic oil. Rotella maintains shift feel until about 4000 miles on the Honda 750 before it gets notchy. The venture just starts getting notchy at 3000 miles.
I change the oil in my primary same time as the engine on my Harley.
Bike oils aren't worth the price in my opinion. Not when you can buy an hdeo for half the price to run the same amount of miles.
I've also found that rotella lasts longer as far as shift feel vs m1 4t and mogul 4t 10w-40. Because it's a 15w-40 it resists shear better than a 10w-40,at least that's been my experience.
No way would I use a 30 grade in a motorcycle. Not one I want to keep,unless it's a monograde and sheer proof.
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Originally Posted By: oldhp
I would say friction modifiers.
I agree, apart from viscosity it's the FM that affect clutch take up. And I think, not always in a bad way, as some people assume.
I would say friction modifiers.
I agree, apart from viscosity it's the FM that affect clutch take up. And I think, not always in a bad way, as some people assume.
Originally Posted By: digitalSniperX1
I guess my concern using car oil is a long term negative affect. I've never had an issue with a clutch slipping but that doesn't mean I won't have an issue Over repeated use with mileage.
I had a Honda CBR600, at 1000 km (600 mi) I dumped the FF oil and put in the only full synthetic oil I could get at the time (with reasonable effort) Castrol 10W-60. It was a car oil, called Formula R then, but now called Castrol Edge.
I ran nothing but Castrol Edge 10W-60 for the next 15 years. No problems with engine or clutch. Changed it every 10,000 KM or 12-18 months, depended a lot on how much I was riding. Some years I rode a lot, almost 1000 km per week, other years I hardly rode at all.
I had the bike for twenty years, I tried a few other oils in the last few years, but it spent most of it's life on car oil. All full synthetic.
I sold the bike earlier this year, it was 20 years old and in great condition, still on the original clutch with no slipping. If long term use of car oil in a bike with a wet clutch causes it to start slipping, then the problem must take more than two decades to show up. I think you will be OK.
BTW give some Castrol Edge 10W60 a go. I liked it.
I guess my concern using car oil is a long term negative affect. I've never had an issue with a clutch slipping but that doesn't mean I won't have an issue Over repeated use with mileage.
I had a Honda CBR600, at 1000 km (600 mi) I dumped the FF oil and put in the only full synthetic oil I could get at the time (with reasonable effort) Castrol 10W-60. It was a car oil, called Formula R then, but now called Castrol Edge.
I ran nothing but Castrol Edge 10W-60 for the next 15 years. No problems with engine or clutch. Changed it every 10,000 KM or 12-18 months, depended a lot on how much I was riding. Some years I rode a lot, almost 1000 km per week, other years I hardly rode at all.
I had the bike for twenty years, I tried a few other oils in the last few years, but it spent most of it's life on car oil. All full synthetic.
I sold the bike earlier this year, it was 20 years old and in great condition, still on the original clutch with no slipping. If long term use of car oil in a bike with a wet clutch causes it to start slipping, then the problem must take more than two decades to show up. I think you will be OK.
BTW give some Castrol Edge 10W60 a go. I liked it.
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