Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
At any rate, EP is probably not a good idea if you are going to change your oil at these sorts of intervals. Plain vanilla Mobil 1 would probably be better, unless you plan to go 10k or more.
Why isn't it a good idea? That is absurd.
When I go to Walmart....the price difference between regular ol' M1, M1 AFE, M1 EP, and M1 HM is all within a dollar or two for a 5.1 quart jug. So, there is nothing gained or lost, monetarily speaking, by purchasing the "more expensive" versions of M1 oil.
However, what is wrong (or as you would say, "not a good idea") if a person buys the most stout version of product's offering (EP)? I simply don't understand this logic on BITOG.
There is this "crazy" attitude here, where you should get the MAXIMUM life out of a particular oil.
Most people's OCI's are determined by personal convenience linked to a safety margin.
For an extra $1 or $2, why not pour in M1's "best" oil, to give an added buffer? What if I get sick and can't change the oil in my Honda or Subaru this fall? What if I just get too busy? Instead of changing each car at the typical 6k mile mark, I'm gonna be just fine if I don't get to until spring for some unseen reason, because each vehicle is filled with a very stout oil (M1 TDT in the Subie, old school PU in the Honda) and synthetic filters (Napa Platinums).
I'm as tight and budget minded as the next guy, but I buy these jugs of oil for usually around $5-10 each anyway.
I'd rather run 6k mile OCI's on PU or M1 TDT than save a few pennies pushing the life out of a conventional.