Another Quick Lube Story...

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: ecotourist

When I ran Detroit iron I hand tightened. Never had a problem. Now that I have a German car and a Japanese car (both having alloy oil pans) I use a torque wrench. Don't think that's an admission of being unskilled. Interestingly (to me anyway) I have to tighten a little more to reach the proper torque.


I mentioned that because people on a Forester forum were making fun of me for using a torque wrench when replacing my drain plug...made a lot of sense to me since I started changing my own oil after somebody at a dealer overtightened the plug so much that it was deformed and leaked.

 

[4wheeldog]

Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: ecotourist

When I ran Detroit iron I hand tightened. Never had a problem. Now that I have a German car and a Japanese car (both having alloy oil pans) I use a torque wrench. Don't think that's an admission of being unskilled. Interestingly (to me anyway) I have to tighten a little more to reach the proper torque.


I mentioned that because people on a Forester forum were making fun of me for using a torque wrench when replacing my drain plug...made a lot of sense to me since I started changing my own oil after somebody at a dealer overtightened the plug so much that it was deformed and leaked.


The Japanese seem to used soft steel for pan bungs. I had to replace the pan on a Honda Accord (After a dealer "Free oil change") and a Toyota Van that I bought used. I have come to appreciate Fumoto drain valves.

 

[skaughtz]

Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: ecotourist

When I ran Detroit iron I hand tightened. Never had a problem. Now that I have a German car and a Japanese car (both having alloy oil pans) I use a torque wrench. Don't think that's an admission of being unskilled. Interestingly (to me anyway) I have to tighten a little more to reach the proper torque.


I mentioned that because people on a Forester forum were making fun of me for using a torque wrench when replacing my drain plug...made a lot of sense to me since I started changing my own oil after somebody at a dealer overtightened the plug so much that it was deformed and leaked.


It takes an extra five seconds for me to slap the socket on my torque wrench and set it to the correct torque. I view precision as a virtue rather than an embarrassment

 

[SirTanon]

Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: ecotourist

When I ran Detroit iron I hand tightened. Never had a problem. Now that I have a German car and a Japanese car (both having alloy oil pans) I use a torque wrench. Don't think that's an admission of being unskilled. Interestingly (to me anyway) I have to tighten a little more to reach the proper torque.


I mentioned that because people on a Forester forum were making fun of me for using a torque wrench when replacing my drain plug...made a lot of sense to me since I started changing my own oil after somebody at a dealer overtightened the plug so much that it was deformed and leaked.


I see absolutely nothing wrong with using a torque wrench to tighten a drain plug.. So long as the torque setting you use is appropriately set.

 

[Virtus_Probi]

Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog

The Japanese seem to used soft steel for pan bungs. I had to replace the pan on a Honda Accord (After a dealer "Free oil change") and a Toyota Van that I bought used. I have come to appreciate Fumoto drain valves.


That's an interesting benefit to installing a Fumoto that I hadn't thought of...I have a buddy who keeps bugging me about getting one, but they still scare me a bit. Even though I've never heard of anybody actually having a problem with one.

FWIW, I use 26 ft-lbs when I torque the drain plug. I think Subie recommends something like 30 and I haven't had a leak yet dialing back just a bit off that.

 

[4wheeldog]

Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog

The Japanese seem to used soft steel for pan bungs. I had to replace the pan on a Honda Accord (After a dealer "Free oil change") and a Toyota Van that I bought used. I have come to appreciate Fumoto drain valves.


That's an interesting benefit to installing a Fumoto that I hadn't thought of...I have a buddy who keeps bugging me about getting one, but they still scare me a bit. Even though I've never heard of anybody actually having a problem with one.

FWIW, I use 26 ft-lbs when I torque the drain plug. I think Subie recommends something like 30 and I haven't had a leak yet dialing back just a bit off that.


I use a hose clamp with clips (Which is what Fumoto sells as a safety) but in reality, there is not way on this green earth that the valve is going to open accidentaly. And....I have verfied that it drains all the oil pulling the plug would. I simply pulled the valve once, after letting it drain. Nothing additional came out.

 

[Bill_G]

Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog
Originally Posted By: Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted By: 4wheeldog

The Japanese seem to used soft steel for pan bungs. I had to replace the pan on a Honda Accord (After a dealer "Free oil change") and a Toyota Van that I bought used. I have come to appreciate Fumoto drain valves.


That's an interesting benefit to installing a Fumoto that I hadn't thought of...I have a buddy who keeps bugging me about getting one, but they still scare me a bit. Even though I've never heard of anybody actually having a problem with one.

FWIW, I use 26 ft-lbs when I torque the drain plug. I think Subie recommends something like 30 and I haven't had a leak yet dialing back just a bit off that.


I use a hose clamp with clips (Which is what Fumoto sells as a safety) but in reality, there is not way on this green earth that the valve is going to open accidentaly. And....I have verfied that it drains all the oil pulling the plug would. I simply pulled the valve once, after letting it drain. Nothing additional came out.


+1 on the Fumoto.

I was skeptical but since installing on my Civic, I'm a believer.