Need a pad slap...any pad recommendations ?
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I ordered ceramics for the Corolla from rock auto. Got them and a bunch ignored stuff in same order. No problems with the cheap ceramic pads. Just make sure you get some brake live for the slide pins and contact points on the back of the pads.
I lean towards a more aggressive noisier, dirty and dusty brake pads lol I have tried a bunch of brake pads over the years on my 2006 tsx. It is one of the achilles heel oh this car. The oem brakes develop shimmy feel and warped rotor after about 20k miles. It is because of pad deposits on the rotor, so the best solution was to go with a more aggresive brake pads to burn off all the deposits. I have tried Hawk HPS, HP+, Stoptech performance brake pads, Racing Brake et500 and Axxis Ultimate. In my experience, the Axxis was the best simply because even going 80mph, when I tap on the brakes, I dont feel any shimmy or vibrations on the wheel whatsoever. They are harder to find now because they stopped selling them here in the US, and the best replacement to me was the Stoptech perfomance brake pads made by Centric, they call it the 309 pads. Lots of Auto-X guys love it over at the BMW forums. They dont dust like the axxis but they still produce a good amount of dust. But braking bite is top notch.
Good choices jeff. Wear your brake dust proudly.
I am also a huge fan of Stoptech's proprietary formula. Amazing docility yet always track ready...
I am also a huge fan of Stoptech's proprietary formula. Amazing docility yet always track ready...
I agree Steve, I am one of those people who do not believe in cutting or refinishing rotors, just slap in a more aggressive brake pads and do the recommended bed in procedures and you should be good to go. The rotors will have the correct pad mating surface area on the rotor. Honda OEM brake pads are not great, they overheat and leave deposits on the rotors hence the shimmy feel and vibrating feel when braking at high speeds.
Originally Posted By: si_jeff
I agree Steve, I am one of those people who do not believe in cutting or refinishing rotors, just slap in a more aggressive brake pads and do the recommended bed in procedures and you should be good to go. The rotors will have the correct pad mating surface area on the rotor. Honda OEM brake pads are not great, they overheat and leave deposits on the rotors hence the shimmy feel and vibrating feel when braking at high speeds.
Yep, I read some long term testing on a Honda recently where they replaced rotors a couple of times due to recurring shimmy/shake. Many drivers bring this on themselves when they haul it down hard and then sit on the brakes at a stop. That super heated pad clamped down on the rotor will transfer material and BINGO...
I agree Steve, I am one of those people who do not believe in cutting or refinishing rotors, just slap in a more aggressive brake pads and do the recommended bed in procedures and you should be good to go. The rotors will have the correct pad mating surface area on the rotor. Honda OEM brake pads are not great, they overheat and leave deposits on the rotors hence the shimmy feel and vibrating feel when braking at high speeds.
Yep, I read some long term testing on a Honda recently where they replaced rotors a couple of times due to recurring shimmy/shake. Many drivers bring this on themselves when they haul it down hard and then sit on the brakes at a stop. That super heated pad clamped down on the rotor will transfer material and BINGO...
Do the Stoptech pads need to be heated up to perform admirably? I understand that was a consideration with older performance pad materials, but I'm sure that technology has changed over time.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: si_jeff
I agree Steve, I am one of those people who do not believe in cutting or refinishing rotors, just slap in a more aggressive brake pads and do the recommended bed in procedures and you should be good to go. The rotors will have the correct pad mating surface area on the rotor. Honda OEM brake pads are not great, they overheat and leave deposits on the rotors hence the shimmy feel and vibrating feel when braking at high speeds.
Yep, I read some long term testing on a Honda recently where they replaced rotors a couple of times due to recurring shimmy/shake. Many drivers bring this on themselves when they haul it down hard and then sit on the brakes at a stop. That super heated pad clamped down on the rotor will transfer material and BINGO...
Correct. Here is a great post by Jeff of Temple of VTEC. I am quoting him. When I first got the TSX, I had similar problems, even my friends 2011 CR-V still has the same problem. I also noticed this does not happen often on other car oem pads.
It's Time to Rethink the Brake Pads
One item that has escaped Acura's attention is the TSX's brakes. We're going to be brutally honest: the stock brake pads are pretty bad. The feel is okay, but they provide somewhat weak stopping power and are prone to overheating easily (particularly when slowing from freeway speeds). When they overheat, they tend to leave deposits on the rotors, which can lead to a very noticeable and irritating brake shudder. Many people misdiagnose this problem as rotor warpage, but as we proved on our own car, it's really the stock pads chubbing the rotors. It only took a few thousand miles for this problem to appear on our TSX project car, and these were very gentle miles. While the symptoms felt almost exactly like rotor warpage, we decided to swap out the stock pads for some more aggressive aftermarket pads, and the results were simply astounding. Without any rotor resurfacing, the brake shudder and wobble disappeared almost immediately, and within a few days of normal driving, all of the OEM pad deposits were wiped clean from the rotors. To this day, there has been absolutely no brake shudder and brake fade is a thing of the past. Even more impressively, the car has benefitted from a tremendous improvement in braking power. The only downside to this pad upgrade is that the new pads will squeak in very rare circumstances and they generate appreciably more brake dust than the stock pads. Otherwise they are one of the biggest "bang for the buck" modifications out there for the TSX and we highly recommend it. We installed Axxis Ultimates on our TSX, but similar results are likely with any number of other aftermarket fitments.
Originally Posted By: si_jeff
I agree Steve, I am one of those people who do not believe in cutting or refinishing rotors, just slap in a more aggressive brake pads and do the recommended bed in procedures and you should be good to go. The rotors will have the correct pad mating surface area on the rotor. Honda OEM brake pads are not great, they overheat and leave deposits on the rotors hence the shimmy feel and vibrating feel when braking at high speeds.
Yep, I read some long term testing on a Honda recently where they replaced rotors a couple of times due to recurring shimmy/shake. Many drivers bring this on themselves when they haul it down hard and then sit on the brakes at a stop. That super heated pad clamped down on the rotor will transfer material and BINGO...
Correct. Here is a great post by Jeff of Temple of VTEC. I am quoting him. When I first got the TSX, I had similar problems, even my friends 2011 CR-V still has the same problem. I also noticed this does not happen often on other car oem pads.
It's Time to Rethink the Brake Pads
One item that has escaped Acura's attention is the TSX's brakes. We're going to be brutally honest: the stock brake pads are pretty bad. The feel is okay, but they provide somewhat weak stopping power and are prone to overheating easily (particularly when slowing from freeway speeds). When they overheat, they tend to leave deposits on the rotors, which can lead to a very noticeable and irritating brake shudder. Many people misdiagnose this problem as rotor warpage, but as we proved on our own car, it's really the stock pads chubbing the rotors. It only took a few thousand miles for this problem to appear on our TSX project car, and these were very gentle miles. While the symptoms felt almost exactly like rotor warpage, we decided to swap out the stock pads for some more aggressive aftermarket pads, and the results were simply astounding. Without any rotor resurfacing, the brake shudder and wobble disappeared almost immediately, and within a few days of normal driving, all of the OEM pad deposits were wiped clean from the rotors. To this day, there has been absolutely no brake shudder and brake fade is a thing of the past. Even more impressively, the car has benefitted from a tremendous improvement in braking power. The only downside to this pad upgrade is that the new pads will squeak in very rare circumstances and they generate appreciably more brake dust than the stock pads. Otherwise they are one of the biggest "bang for the buck" modifications out there for the TSX and we highly recommend it. We installed Axxis Ultimates on our TSX, but similar results are likely with any number of other aftermarket fitments.
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Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Do the Stoptech pads need to be heated up to perform admirably? I understand that was a consideration with older performance pad materials, but I'm sure that technology has changed over time.
Not in my experience, these new pads have come a long way. The Stoptech in my experience has been great on all temps, even on a very cold morning, they are great on the initial cold bite. Not all pads are like this though, track pads that are not for street do not have the initial cold bite. In my experience, Once you try one of the more aggressive brake pads, you wouldn't want to go back to the regular pads specially on the highway. I really hate it when brake shudders on high speeds.
The European counterparts believe in the more aggressive brake pads, just look at most BMW or MB front wheels, if the owner had not had a car wash for weeks, their front wheels look gray instead of silver lol japanese tend to be more conservative while their euro counterparts always go for performance for benchmark.
Do the Stoptech pads need to be heated up to perform admirably? I understand that was a consideration with older performance pad materials, but I'm sure that technology has changed over time.
Not in my experience, these new pads have come a long way. The Stoptech in my experience has been great on all temps, even on a very cold morning, they are great on the initial cold bite. Not all pads are like this though, track pads that are not for street do not have the initial cold bite. In my experience, Once you try one of the more aggressive brake pads, you wouldn't want to go back to the regular pads specially on the highway. I really hate it when brake shudders on high speeds.
The European counterparts believe in the more aggressive brake pads, just look at most BMW or MB front wheels, if the owner had not had a car wash for weeks, their front wheels look gray instead of silver lol japanese tend to be more conservative while their euro counterparts always go for performance for benchmark.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Yep, I read some long term testing on a Honda recently where they replaced rotors a couple of times due to recurring shimmy/shake. Many drivers bring this on themselves when they haul it down hard and then sit on the brakes at a stop. That super heated pad clamped down on the rotor will transfer material and BINGO...
This is the main culprit.
When I brake hard to stop my S2000 from 50-55 MPH within 80-100 ft or less for red light, I tried to stop few feet from crossing line, then release the brake let the car roll a foot, stop for few seconds and let the roll a foot again ... do it several times would minimize the deposit on rotor.
Yep, I read some long term testing on a Honda recently where they replaced rotors a couple of times due to recurring shimmy/shake. Many drivers bring this on themselves when they haul it down hard and then sit on the brakes at a stop. That super heated pad clamped down on the rotor will transfer material and BINGO...
This is the main culprit.
When I brake hard to stop my S2000 from 50-55 MPH within 80-100 ft or less for red light, I tried to stop few feet from crossing line, then release the brake let the car roll a foot, stop for few seconds and let the roll a foot again ... do it several times would minimize the deposit on rotor.
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Yep, I read some long term testing on a Honda recently where they replaced rotors a couple of times due to recurring shimmy/shake. Many drivers bring this on themselves when they haul it down hard and then sit on the brakes at a stop. That super heated pad clamped down on the rotor will transfer material and BINGO...
This is the main culprit.
When I brake hard to stop my S2000 from 50-55 MPH within 80-100 ft or less for red light, I tried to stop few feet from crossing line, then release the brake let the car roll a foot, stop for few seconds and let the roll a foot again ... do it several times would minimize the deposit on rotor.
If I'm forced to come to a full hard stop with new rotors, I use the parking brake for the final stop after a few feet of coasting.
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Yep, I read some long term testing on a Honda recently where they replaced rotors a couple of times due to recurring shimmy/shake. Many drivers bring this on themselves when they haul it down hard and then sit on the brakes at a stop. That super heated pad clamped down on the rotor will transfer material and BINGO...
This is the main culprit.
When I brake hard to stop my S2000 from 50-55 MPH within 80-100 ft or less for red light, I tried to stop few feet from crossing line, then release the brake let the car roll a foot, stop for few seconds and let the roll a foot again ... do it several times would minimize the deposit on rotor.
If I'm forced to come to a full hard stop with new rotors, I use the parking brake for the final stop after a few feet of coasting.
^^^Of course dependent on your car's parking brake design.
I have done the same thing in our 9000+ pound service vans when forced to stop suddenly. These days they all have the lil drums in the rotor out back for a parking brake.
I have done the same thing in our 9000+ pound service vans when forced to stop suddenly. These days they all have the lil drums in the rotor out back for a parking brake.
Is this a game like BullSlap in Wild Hogs?
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