82 Accord - stalls out once warm
- Thread starter OceanRuns
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What others said about the choke. I had an 87 that was carburated and while I didn't have your exact problem, I had a problem with not starting because the choke would get stuck. And like others have said, I had to remove the air cleaner and stick a long screw driver down into the carb to get the choke unstuck and it would finally start.
Cold idle would start at 1500-2000 RPM and go all the way to 3000 before dropping down to normal idle. You could drop it to normal idle quicker by tapping the gas pedal which would get it off the cold idle.
Cold idle would start at 1500-2000 RPM and go all the way to 3000 before dropping down to normal idle. You could drop it to normal idle quicker by tapping the gas pedal which would get it off the cold idle.
I had an '81 Accord.
Those carbs are really complicated.
A zillion little vacuum hoses running to two(?) control boxes.
If it's not a simple choke problem, consider a Weber conversion kit.
That's what I did (along with other engine mods).
Google "weber 32/36 dgev conversion kit honda"
Those carbs are really complicated.
A zillion little vacuum hoses running to two(?) control boxes.
If it's not a simple choke problem, consider a Weber conversion kit.
That's what I did (along with other engine mods).
Google "weber 32/36 dgev conversion kit honda"
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If you are unable to repair it yourself, in California, the best place to take your car would probably be to a STAR Certified Test & Repair Smog Check Station. They are specialized in emissions and fuel systems, including for carburetor engines. They should be able to repair your choke or anything else that is stalling your engine in the emission, fuel, or ignition systems.
Regular shops don't know anything about late carburetor engines of the 1980s these days, which lack computers and are run by a complicated maze of vacuum lines that make up the emission systems that have a couple of dozen subsystems.
Regular shops don't know anything about late carburetor engines of the 1980s these days, which lack computers and are run by a complicated maze of vacuum lines that make up the emission systems that have a couple of dozen subsystems.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
I can say for 100% that it's not ignition-related or engine-mechanical-related because these don't depend on temperature. It's also not EGR because that would stall a cold engine.
Troubleshoot the automatic choke using the steps in my previous post.
I've worked on tons of stuff that that had ignition issues when hot and not cold. Hotter engines cause more impedance on the spark - basically runs fine when cold but sputters/dies when hot. Usually a bad coil or capacitor on points distributors.
While it certainly could be a choke/choke pull off, it very well could be a distributor or coil. Or as simple as a corroded 12 volt wire to the ignition.
I can say for 100% that it's not ignition-related or engine-mechanical-related because these don't depend on temperature. It's also not EGR because that would stall a cold engine.
Troubleshoot the automatic choke using the steps in my previous post.
I've worked on tons of stuff that that had ignition issues when hot and not cold. Hotter engines cause more impedance on the spark - basically runs fine when cold but sputters/dies when hot. Usually a bad coil or capacitor on points distributors.
While it certainly could be a choke/choke pull off, it very well could be a distributor or coil. Or as simple as a corroded 12 volt wire to the ignition.
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