Any great JB-Weld sucsess stories?

[kschachn]

Along with numbering your feathers.

Originally Posted By: Jimkobb
Originally Posted By: Vikas
I forgot to ask; where did you keep the MF large c-clamp needed to hold the two halves of the car until the JBweld set?

I always keep a set in my trunk for just such an emergency .

 

[wings&wheels]

My TR6 exhaust was only a few years old but developed a few pinholes on the bottom of the muffler right before an excursion w/ the local Brit car club. The rest of the exhaust was fine, w/ the only corrosion right where you'd expect exhaust condensation to be on a seldom driven toy and the rock wool was still good above the hole.

I went down to our Facilities folks and got a sheet of duct metal a few inches smaller than the bottom face of the muffler. I drilled the perimeter of patch and muffler, cleaned and painted the corroded area, put a thick, even coating of JB over the patch and on the muffler, let it tack and riveted it in place w/ stainless blind rivets making sure I got a good squeeze of JB around the perimeter. Finished by painting it grey like stock (even though it is not really visible from behind).

I am not a fan of kludges by any means and figured this would hold for the next few weeks.....that was 8+ years ago and the replacement stainless muffler is still sitting on the shelf.

 

[another Todd]

Originally Posted By: wings&wheels
My TR6 exhaust was only a few years old but developed a few pinholes on the bottom of the muffler right before an excursion w/ the local Brit car club. The rest of the exhaust was fine, w/ the only corrosion right where you'd expect exhaust condensation to be on a seldom driven toy and the rock wool was still good above the hole.

I went down to our Facilities folks and got a sheet of duct metal a few inches smaller than the bottom face of the muffler. I drilled the perimeter of patch and muffler, cleaned and painted the corroded area, put a thick, even coating of JB over the patch and on the muffler, let it tack and riveted it in place w/ stainless blind rivets making sure I got a good squeeze of JB around the perimeter. Finished by painting it grey like stock (even though it is not really visible from behind).

I am not a fan of kludges by any means and figured this would hold for the next few weeks.....that was 8+ years ago and the replacement stainless muffler is still sitting on the shelf.


LOL, I would consider that repair permanent.

 

[Traction]

Repaired my GM remote key fobs with it. Had to do it like once a year, but worked better than buying a new one. Just globed some on the tab for the key ring, filed it to shape, and drilled a new hole.

 

[Cubey]

I used a tiny bit of the "JB Weld Waterweld" on the filler neck/recovery tank barb on my car's plastic radiator and it has done the trick.

$8-10 for it sure beat $100 for a whole radiator at the time. I may soon replace anyway though.

Back in September the engine overheated from lack of coolant. The engine ran fine again after I refilled it (engine cooled down about 30 mins).

A hole was discovered at the filler neck/reservoir tank hose barn. The rad cap was also wrong when I got the car and I figured out that the non-safety caps wouldn't seal properly, so I got one that did.

Anyhow the coolant boiled out is what happened to cause the overheat. I don't think i want to trust a patched radiator with a new head gasket in case that JB Weld Waterweld epoxy decides to fall off one day.

But yeah, I'd say the stuff worked for me in my case.

 

[deanm11]

Repaired a stripped pedal on a stationary bike for my son. Not sure how much use it got but it held for the couple years he kept the bike.

 

[andyd]

My BMWs' filler neck area repaired well when sanded down to bright metal. Also on the top half of the tank, pinholes would appear when sanding to bare metal. I used a 4" taping knife to smooth it out on one tank. The repair out lasted the car. I seem to have better luck using it on metal. I pretty much gave up using it on plastic

 

[Rick in PA]

We use PC7 Epoxy in our neck of the woods. Made in Allentown, PA. I had a transmission that had a cracked bottom as a young man. A buddy, who was a good welder, tried to fix it. He'd carefully lay down a bead and a few moments later... "crack", the cast iron case would crack just outside the weld. After a half dozen or so weld beads and "cracks", we just gave up on welding it. I cleaned it well and slathered some PC7 on it. It held as long as I had the car.

PC7 use to have these nifty displays at the hardware stores. I remember admiring them as a child. Note the soda bottle, "A-Treat" another fine product from Allentown, PA.

 

[asand1]

My dad used JB weld to fill a significant pit in the cylinder of a Chevy 327. We daily drove that car and drag raced it going as fast as 13.08 in the 1/4 mile.

I used JB weld to patch a coolant pipe in a ford 4.6 that would have required a new manifold. It is still over two years later.

 

[NYEngineer]

Ok... I have a great one, but I can't remember if it was JB Weld or Permatex epoxy that comes in that blue can in those little mixer cups.
One day, a hospital in NY calls us up to come in and look at their generator. A 16 cylinder Cat that threw a rod. The local Cat dealer wanted something close to 100,000 dollars to swap out the block. After removing the head and the broken liner, the only damage to the block was the sealing surface that the O rings on the bottom of the liner seal into.
We offered them a repair at a fraction of the dealer's cost. We found the chunk of iron in the oil pan, cleaned everything up, epoxied the chunk back in place, cleaned any ridges and high spots, pressed in a new liner, new piston and rod, refilled with new antifreeze and let it rip.
I PM'd that machine for another 20 years after that repair was made and every time it ramped up to speed, I used to cringe, but it never broke again.
I understand that hospital closed and the machine has been decommissioned but it never failed again.

 

[supton]

I used it to patch up some holes in my Jetta. Used it like a glue to hold on some Al flashing. Seems to be holding up, but it is not a structural repair.

 

[jcwit]

Repaired a handle on my adult sippy cup made by Contigo, a Chicago Company with products made in China.

We shall see how it holds up, so far so good.

 

[JHZR2]

Originally Posted By: Rick in PA
We use PC7 Epoxy in our neck of the woods. Made in Allentown, PA. I had a transmission that had a cracked bottom as a young man. A buddy, who was a good welder, tried to fix it. He'd carefully lay down a bead and a few moments later... "crack", the cast iron case would crack just outside the weld. After a half dozen or so weld beads and "cracks", we just gave up on welding it. I cleaned it well and slathered some PC7 on it. It held as long as I had the car.

PC7 use to have these nifty displays at the hardware stores. I remember admiring them as a child. Note the soda bottle, "A-Treat" another fine product from Allentown, PA.

I loved A-treat. I was in an old-school hardware store a few weeks back and saw one of these displays!!

The red cream soda was always good! Cant seem to find A-treat any more

 

[jcwit]

Originally Posted By: jcwit
Repaired a handle on my adult sippy cup made by Contigo, a Chicago Company with products made in China.

We shall see how it holds up, so far so good.


Up date, JB didn't adhere to the plastic handle, so it's off to buy another.

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: jcwit
Originally Posted By: jcwit
Repaired a handle on my adult sippy cup made by Contigo, a Chicago Company with products made in China.

We shall see how it holds up, so far so good.


Up date, JB didn't adhere to the plastic handle, so it's off to buy another.


Look at Tervis brand cups, tumblers etc. Made in USA. Lifetime warranty. Microwave and dishwasher safe too.

 

[jcwit]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad


Look at Tervis brand cups, tumblers etc. Made in USA. Lifetime warranty. Microwave and dishwasher safe too.


Took a look.

Not spill proof!

Not insulated!

Contigo also has a lifetime warranty, but not for abuse, such as dropping.

Not even comparable!

 

[dlundblad]

The Contigo does have a superior lid mechanism, but are you sure you looked at all of them? I have 2 that are insulated. All it takes is a vacuum between the inner cup and outer shell. They keep cold stuff cold and hot stuff hot.

I also have a Stanley tumber that has a lid mechanism that is comparable to Contigo. The lid is the only thing dishwasher safe unfortunately.

 

[jcwit]

I'll just stick to Contigo, easily available at WalMart, supports the longshoreman, little difference than the HP I'm typing on.

 

[Warstud]

I used a similiar product called "Quicksteel" on my snowblower. After it thru a rod and punched a hole in the block. Been about 3 years now and it's still holding.

 

[asand1]

Found the after pic for the 4.6 coolant pipe.