Removing wheels/tires on 2003 2500 Chevrolet

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The truck has eight lug wheels and we got the fronts off kay, but the rears wont budge. It looks like the center of the wheel will or wont clear the hub/axle. Its not an HD and does not have duallies.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
The truck has eight lug wheels and we got the fronts off kay, but the rears wont budge. It looks like the center of the wheel will or wont clear the hub/axle. Its not an HD and does not have duallies.
I believe Discunt Tire does free tire rotations, even if you didnt buy the tires from them. Let them deal with it to crack them loose.
 
I find a pressure treated 4x4, approx 4-5 feet long, the best thing in the world for knocking stubborn wheels off.

They're just dead enough of a dead blow.
 
We were using a 1lb rubber mallet.

Do ya'll think the wheel will come off without rmoving more parts? Are you saying I just need a heavy hammer.


I'll tell ya what, i have a big, heavy hammer I dug up in the backyard when I moved in here in 2011. I'll post back, guess I cant hurt much, but I dont want to bruise the tire and have a blowout next week.


Eljefino, i will get a 4X4 and place againt the tire and hit it with a big hammer, is that what you are suggesting?


Haynes and OM were of no help, and I dont know how factory these wheels are.
 
I'd spray some PB Blaster around each stud allowing it to work it's way down in between the rim and rotor. Let it sit for 30 min and then rubber hammer around the rim pretty hard in a criss cross direction. My dad heard you can just crack the lugnuts off a bit and drive in the driveway and then hit the brakes hard. The shock will sometimes break them free. I've never done that, but it makes sense.

Lube the back side of rims when you get them off so as not have it happen in the future.
 
I may have to bring it in, really would like to do it all myself, but i dont have much experience with Heavy Chevys and Im not really able to exert a lot of force/energy.

I sprayed penetrant thru all of the lugs and where the wheel meets the hub, but being as the truck has big discs, there really isnt anywhere to apply it on the inner side.


Yeh, Tzu i like to apply anti seize to the studs and the hub face where the wheel meets the carrier/axle/hub area.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28


Eljefino, i will get a 4X4 and place againt the tire and hit it with a big hammer, is that what you are suggesting?



Nah you gotta swing the whole thing.

It's not fun, but it's fun.
 
Talk to me like a fifth grader.


I put the block on the inside of the wheel(or tire?) and proceed to rap on the block of wood?


Never experienced this before, now I feel for you snow belt fellows, but the tires were put on in 2011 and he lived on a red dirt lot. The rears are about bald and the fronts are decent, so maybe they've been mounted for 4 years.
 
I can't speak for him, but I lift the wheel about 1" off the ground, place a block of wood against the tire, on the ground, and nail it with a 20lb sledge. That usually works.
 
My mother has the same truck. Fun times with those rear wheels at times. I spray the rear studs with PB, let it sit for a few minutes, then get a piece of wood and my sledge and swing away. Here's a pic of the last time I changed the oil and rotated the tires for her. Notice the PB drip on the tires and the sledge in the background.
smile.gif

20140405_155317.jpg

I put the 2x4 on the bottom of the wheel. On the outside.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Lapham3
A short drive with loose lug nuts-hit the brakes hard


Was about to suggest that. Leave a turn out. Braking probably won't do it, but cutting figure 8's ought to. Try at slow speed first, then add until they break. Cut hard, the idea is to put the force into that wheel.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Talk to me like a fifth grader.


I put the block on the inside of the wheel(or tire?) and proceed to rap on the block of wood?


Never experienced this before, now I feel for you snow belt fellows, but the tires were put on in 2011 and he lived on a red dirt lot. The rears are about bald and the fronts are decent, so maybe they've been mounted for 4 years.
Joe,

I had the same problem with a large brake drum on the back of a van. It took me 3 days and every kind of penetrating oil i could get my hands on. Afterwords I thought of a better way.

What happens is, the wheel center hole is used to register the wheel on the hub. When you get it busted loose it will still be stuck on the hub. The reason is rust. When iron rusts, the surface swells, becomes larger. you must remove the rust to get the wheel off.

If it were me, I would use dilute battery acid, (sulfuric acid). It will dissolve the rust and free the rim. If you do this, use due diligence, rubber gloves, goggles, fresh rinse water, baking soda. Afterwords, dry every thing and oil it.

Good luck.

Wayne
 
Thank you, Im still not getting the idea. I put the wood against the lower portion of the lifted tire, then wham it?

Nice lift,


Hmm, battery acid, do i just find an old batter then hand pump/siphon it out then pour it on?

Ill try driving it with loose lugs, if necessary but I want to try other methods as the truck is on four jackstands now and i have alot of underbody detailing to do. And besides, we worked up a sweat breaking 32 lugs and 32 lug caps.






Can anyone elaborate on hitting wood with a hammer? Hate to frustrate ya, but I just cannot imagine the geometry of it. Was eljefino talking about using the four by four as a fulcrum/lever to pry the wheel off, as in a crow bar?
 
I've always been able to get away with soaking the hub down with penetrating oil and the beating the heck out of it either on the outside or inside of the tire.


but yes the loose lugnut trick will work as well. done that with semi-truck wheels
 
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