A good quality .357 mag revolver

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Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Z06, so in an emergency I would have to squeeze twice to get one round off? That is if I kept it on an empty cylinder.

I was thinking to have a full six in there and depending on a heavy pull as the safety. I had a shotgun that had a hair trigger, I don't want that in a revolver nor do I want to worry about dropping it, not that I wouldn't treat it as a 24kt gold bar.


I have a couple revolvers in the house for home protection. I keep them fully loaded and the hammer down - of course. In an emergency, you would simply point and squeeze the trigger to fire. That would be "double action" ... and the trigger squeeze would be longer and more effort, but not bad.

If you had time, you could cock the hammer and then squeeze the trigger, which would be a shorter and less effort trigger squeeze - that's known as "single action". Double action means with a trigger squeeze the hammer goes back and then falls ... therefore, there are two, or "double" action due to squeezing the trigger. Single action is when you cock the hammer back with your thumb, then pull the trigger to release the hammer - ie, a single action of the trigger due to pulling the trigger.

I believe any modern well known name brand revolver will have a trigger block mechanism design, so you wouldn't have to worry about dropping it and having it go off.
 
What OC?



Z06, your explanation is what I thought the two meant, but they threw me a curveball on the first page of this thread.

Ok, Robenstein. I don't want to rely on a safety mechanism, so I would load five and make sure the one in the barrel that I can't see is empty.


I don't think I've ever fired a revolver. Based on experience with semi-autos and time spent on this forum I will wager a guess that they kick harder since the recoil isn't used to shuffle a fresh round into the chamber. But, who knows?

Anyways, it seems they would be less expensive since they appear less complex. But then again, maybe the gears are complex and maybe the materials are superior. Can't forget craftsman ships...maybe it has nicer edges, truer bores and what-not.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
S&W 686 4" should be ideal.


Sure will! Grab the PC model. SWEET!!! and very accurate (it is a short barrel tho).
 
I've had about a dozen or more different .357 revolvers over the years, and have about 4 now. My all-time favorite for balance, handling, quality is the S&W 686 4" I have pricier ones (3.5" S&W 27, 2.5" S&W 19, etc) but that is the "best" at it's job as long as concealed carry is not the primary objective. There is a reason it is called the "Python killer" - it drove Colt out of the revolver business because it was too good and too cheap vs. the competition.

That said, they have climbed in price the last few years and Ruger makes a reliable, good gun if you can't get a good example of the 686. You can get it in nickel in the 586 variant but they are much rarer and hard to find; I do want to track one down someday myself.

Vs. the cost of the gun, grips are cheap and don't let the fact a gun might have grips you don't like on it keep you from buying it if the gun is otherwise good. Kim Ahrends makes some quality wood grips affordably so if you need some for a wheel gun, look at his stuff as an option. There are many options on grips but that is an easy go-to one.

Shooting a revolver accurately in DA fire is much harder IMO than an auto. I recommend a lot of dry-fire practice to learn the pull and develop the muscle memory. I started shooting a S&W 67 4" stainless .38 special at the range about almost 20 years ago as a training aid vs. 1911 shooting. Took me a long time to become competent, but then I was hooked on them. Love both equally but the skill sets are slightly different in the hold and trigger action. So be prepared for some work and slight disappointment or frustration at first.
 
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S&W has nice smooth action but I'M in the Ruger camp. They are built like tanks.

357 mag.
1. Ruger Blackhawk
2. Ruger GP100
3. Ruger Security Six

That's my order
smile.gif
and yes I would use the Blackhawk in SD mode
wink.gif
 
for a sleeper that may fit your price range, try a S&W 65 with a 3 inch barrel. They are on the K frame and can be had for about $500. I got a 65-6 version a few years before they stopped making them. Stainless steel, good balance.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
What OC?



Z06, your explanation is what I thought the two meant, but they threw me a curveball on the first page of this thread.

Ok, Robenstein. I don't want to rely on a safety mechanism, so I would load five and make sure the one in the barrel that I can't see is empty.


I don't think I've ever fired a revolver. Based on experience with semi-autos and time spent on this forum I will wager a guess that they kick harder since the recoil isn't used to shuffle a fresh round into the chamber. But, who knows?

Anyways, it seems they would be less expensive since they appear less complex. But then again, maybe the gears are complex and maybe the materials are superior. Can't forget craftsman ships...maybe it has nicer edges, truer bores and what-not.


New revolvers are much more expensive than the polymer framed autos. Revolvers are simply more expensive to make. However all the cool guys
wink.gif
know revolvers rock.
 
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
Z06, so in an emergency I would have to squeeze twice to get one round off? That is if I kept it on an empty cylinder.

I was thinking to have a full six in there and depending on a heavy pull as the safety. I had a shotgun that had a hair trigger, I don't want that in a revolver nor do I want to worry about dropping it, not that I wouldn't treat it as a 24kt gold bar.


It's only true for older revolvers. None of the ones on the list require you to carry on an empty chamber. I wouldn't get one of the older ones for SD, I would lean towards the newer ones that allows you to fill all six. There are some good used revolvers out there. If budget is a concern, a good used Ruger or S&W would serve you well.

No, you don't have to fire it twice if you do carry on an empty cylinder. Pull the trigger on a double action (or cock the hammer on a single action) and watch the cylinder, the cocking part of the action rotates a fresh round into place.

A .357 is a great gun. I've recommended one several times as a first gun, for the reasons you've cited. I recommend that you go to a range and spend a few $$ to rent some. Try them out before you buy. That modest investment will ensure that you don't regret your purchase later.
 
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If you want to use a revolver .357 is a great choice because you can train with inexpensive .38 ammo as well as more expensive .357. For years I used a stainless 4 inch Ruger .357 as SD house gun. Kept it loaded with lightweight hollowpoint +P .38. to avoid issues with over penetration. .357 can go thru walls/doors/people, particularly ball ammo, so you have to be careful to be on target and 100% situation aware around/beyond target. Glad I never had to pull the trigger on .357 without hearing protection. .357 ammo is among the loudest of all calibers at apprx 164 db.
 
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DA revolvers like the Ruger and Taurus have transfer bars, that move up and allow the hammer to move the firing pin. They are safe to carry fully loaded. Smith and Wesson probably has something similar.

I've owned a Ruger GP100 for a couple or three decades. It is built like a tank. I have upgraded to fiber optic sights and a Hogue full rubber grip similar to what is now offered stock. With .357 rounds, you will appreciate the full rubber grip. And the trigger on Rugers is much coarser than a Smith. It does smooth out with a lot of use. And I have a Taurus revolver that I like. Just a .38, but made well. You might want to look at one of their .357s. A good gunsmith can slick up any trigger, but the S&W are really popular. A friend who shot matches did his own. Had about a 2# pull. That is a bit scary for a civilian, but he was a firearms instructor, in the Marshal Service. He prefers Smith and Wessons, but admits that the Rugers are solid. He thought the S&W trigger smoother out of the box and easier to modify.
 
You can safely keep the cylinder full on a modern revolver with a blocking or transfer bar.

Revolvers, especially DA revolvers are very complex mechanisms. They take precision engineering and feeding to make sure the mechanism that rotates the cylinder and fires the weapon is timed properly and in proper alignment with the barrel. Also, being they fire high pressure cartridges such as the 357 mag, they have to be made from quality materials.
 
If you want the best get a Smith & Wesson 686, 2nd best would be a Ruger GP100. The Ruger fanboys will tell you the Ruger is stronger...of course it is with all the extra metal. The S&W will also hold value much better.
 
Of course since the guy wants an inexpensive revolver, a used Ruger would be better. Some S&W guns(model 19/66 for instance) wont hold up to a steady diet of hot 357 loads, but the Rugers will.
 
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