Pressurized Reservoirs Flush Instructions

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Here are my instructions to COMPLETELY flush a pressurized reservoir ONLY vehicle the safe way.

coolant_reservoir_pressurized.jpg


1. Take pressurized reservoir cap off
2. Open petcock valve and drain Radiator
3. Close petcock valve.
4. Fill Pressurized reservoir with distilled water
5. Run car for 15 minuets WHEN operating temp is reached with heat on MAX and fan on HIGHEST
6. Add more water if needed WITH CAR RUNNING!!
7. Shut off car and let it cool off. (6 hours roughly)
8. Repeat step 2-6 four times
9. Open petcock valve and drain radiator
10. Close pet cock valve.
11. Loosen bleeder valve
12. Put 1 gallon of anti freeze (use the correct type depending on your vehicle) and 1/4 gallon of distilled water in reservoir. (to compensate for the water in heater core and block)
13. Mix 1/2 gallon water and 1/2 gallon of anti freeze then dump into the pressurized reservoir (Use funnel)
14. Tighten bleeder valve
15. repeat step 5
16. Top off if necessary
17. Close and tighten pressurized reservoir cap

Done!
 
For this you will need 5-6 gallons of distilled water and 2 gallons of the correct anti-freeze depending on your vehicle's model and make. I used Peak Long Life Antifreeze because it's globally compatible with most cars.
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
This may work great on some cars, but if you own a GM v8 you will likely damage it.

I do not agree with this at all...


What about this would damage that vehicle?

I flush a similar way but no way I'm waiting 6 hours between cool off, maybe 15 minutes tops with a fan blowing on the radiator to help slightly.
 
What a waste of time and money. Remove reservoir and clean it ................ I use a small (repeat, small) amount of CLR and water, flush well .......... looks like new. Another trick is to add ice cubes and shake well. Do normal drain and fill on car.

I do this on cars with and without a pressurized reservoir.

If car has block drain plug or removable knock sensors in block, remove those before drain.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
This may work great on some cars, but if you own a GM v8 you will likely damage it.

I do not agree with this at all...


What about this would damage that vehicle?

I flush a similar way but no way I'm waiting 6 hours between cool off, maybe 15 minutes tops with a fan blowing on the radiator to help slightly.


Most late model GM V8's MUST be filled through the top radiator hose. Many reverse flow cooling systems require the same or similar procedure. Failure to do so creates steam pockets in the heads.

Not always fatal but easy to get lucky...
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8


Most late model GM V8's MUST be filled through the top radiator hose. Many reverse flow cooling systems require the same or similar procedure. Failure to do so creates steam pockets in the heads.

Not always fatal but easy to get lucky...


This is why I bought an Airlift. I won't touch a cooling system without it anymore. Two close calls almost cost me more than the tool many times over.
 
Originally Posted By: Jim_Truett
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8


Most late model GM V8's MUST be filled through the top radiator hose. Many reverse flow cooling systems require the same or similar procedure. Failure to do so creates steam pockets in the heads.

Not always fatal but easy to get lucky...


This is why I bought an Airlift. I won't touch a cooling system without it anymore. Two close calls almost cost me more than the tool many times over.



Times a dozen! How many cars these days with remote pressurized reservoirs, many with no radiator cap, and strange convoluted cooling system designs?

Answer? Too many! You almost have to have a vacuum tool these days or you are risking BIG money repairs....
 
+1 on AirLift. You don't even want to know how stubborn a Cummins can be to fill properly. I had no intentions of finding out. I purchased the Airlift HD, and will never think about all of that silly business with bleeder valves, plugs, etc, ever again.
 
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