New Shocks and Control Arms?

[Riick]

If you're doing the control arms, have them do ALL
the ball joints, tie rods, & bushings, etc.
Extra material costs will probably be well under $200,
and since it's already 80% apart, extra labor should be minimal.
At that point you have a complete suspension refresh and have
headed off problems in that area for the next 15 years

 

[285south]

Fix it and keep driving it. Looks Great! compared to my 2000 neon with the sun burnt paint on top panels.

 

[285south]

Yes picture of under the hood, inside, and inside the trunk.

Quote:
The Audi has been a good car... I'm planning on selling it to a co-worker.


I would have bought it from you for 1500 and drove it cross country and than put $7 grand into it so it would be new again!!!!!! Lot cheaper than a new 2013 Audi a4

 

[buck91]

Originally Posted By: SF0059
...If I replace the shocks, I am looking at $400 for a cheap set of Monroe Spectrums or $550 for Bilsteins with all the installation hardware. I'm leaning toward the Bilstein for just $150 more ($38 more per shock)....



Wow, I'd say that's a no brainer if you end up doing shocks. Especially if you prefere the characteristics of monotubes.

 

[Quest]

Originally Posted By: tommygunn
...If Deeza makes control arms for your car, get those instead. They are much better quality and made in Turkey...


I beg to differ. Deeza only has a limited line of products manufactured in Turkey (tie rod ends and ball joints mainly, and fairly limited in selections). The rest of them incl. lower control arms, sway bar end links, etc. are outsourced to Taiwan.

they are still higher quality than that of Mervo or Dorman, and on-par with some of the higher end Raybestos control arms.

Q

 

[camrydriver111]

I would steer away from any quick-strut type struts. Sometimes the spring inside them does not match the car and the car can ride like [censored]. Cars have different springs depending on the engine/options and quick-struts are one spring fits all. [censored]. I've once had quick-struts on a car and it jacked up the ride height as well as made the car ride very stiff.

 

[buck91]

Just installed monroe quick struts on our v6 aurora. Slight ride height increase but otherwise they are fine.

 

[mtd240]

Agree with the others on URO part quality - garbage, ESPECIALLY rubber parts. European cars like high quality parts, and will eat anything else in a couple thousand miles.

I drive Volvos ('90 240 wagon, '78 242, and '98 V70XC), which are comparably "maintenance-picky" to Audi and BMW. Two rules to survive: Buy the best parts (I prefer Genuine Volvo from a discount online dealership, or OEM if cheaper), and replace everything you take off (i.e., GET IT ON A MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE). Saves a TON of time/worry in the future, organizing R&R into "system replacement" every 10 years rather than piecemeal replacement randomly every couple months. If you are doing struts, it's time for control arms, strut mounts, ball joints, etc. Spend the $800-$900 on parts and don't touch it for 15 years.

I don't use "how long will do you plan on keeping this" logic when working on cars (any car, not just mine) - options are "forever" or "getting rid of it now". Supporting cheap parts manufacturers is killing off the good ones - don't do it!

 

[HangFire]

Originally Posted By: mtd240
I drive Volvos ('90 240 wagon, '78 242, and '98 V70XC), which are comparably "maintenance-picky" to Audi and BMW. Two rules to survive: Buy the best parts (I prefer Genuine Volvo from a discount online dealership, or OEM if cheaper), and replace everything you take off (i.e., GET IT ON A MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE). Saves a TON of time/worry in the future, organizing R&R into "system replacement" every 10 years rather than piecemeal replacement randomly every couple months. If you are doing struts, it's time for control arms, strut mounts, ball joints, etc. Spend the $800-$900 on parts and don't touch it for 15 years.

I don't use "how long will do you plan on keeping this" logic when working on cars (any car, not just mine) - options are "forever" or "getting rid of it now". Supporting cheap parts manufacturers is killing off the good ones - don't do it!

 

[Lolvoguy]

Originally Posted By: HangFire
Originally Posted By: mtd240
I drive Volvos ('90 240 wagon, '78 242, and '98 V70XC), which are comparably "maintenance-picky" to Audi and BMW. Two rules to survive: Buy the best parts (I prefer Genuine Volvo from a discount online dealership, or OEM if cheaper), and replace everything you take off (i.e., GET IT ON A MAINTENANCE SCHEDULE). Saves a TON of time/worry in the future, organizing R&R into "system replacement" every 10 years rather than piecemeal replacement randomly every couple months. If you are doing struts, it's time for control arms, strut mounts, ball joints, etc. Spend the $800-$900 on parts and don't touch it for 15 years.

I don't use "how long will do you plan on keeping this" logic when working on cars (any car, not just mine) - options are "forever" or "getting rid of it now". Supporting cheap parts manufacturers is killing off the good ones - don't do it!

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