Noack from GTL PUP higher than before?

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Some have said that PU is better noack than PUP. I am curious to how the new PP GTL scored on noack and if it too will be higher. I kinda thought this new gtl would make everything that was good, better? I have given thought to running a qt of qsud 5w30 in the mix w PP w/gtl to keep noack numbers below 10. Has anyone any insight on any of this. In winter weather I can deal with a higher noack as heat wont be the monster of my problems as it is right now. Talked to another pennzoil rep today and complained yet again why PUP is hard to find. Thanks
 
I agree. I too am annoyed that PUP is near impossible to find. PU had a lower NOACK then PUP but it depends on the reason you are looking for lower noack..i ran PU and my car used/burned off/evaporated more than M1 which has higher noack. Lower noack doesnt automatically make an oil better..you are only looking at 1 feature of the oil. base oil and add pack are other variances. But i wouldnt pay too much attention to low noack.
 
Originally Posted By: Marco620
In winter weather I can deal with a higher noack as heat wont be the monster of my problems as it is right now. Thanks

Just curious as to how Noack has any relevance at all to whatever it is that you are concerned about? It's an interesting spec' that's the has importance to the OEMs but not to us end users.
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Marco620
In winter weather I can deal with a higher noack as heat wont be the monster of my problems as it is right now. Thanks

Just curious as to how Noack has any relevance at all to whatever it is that you are concerned about? It's an interesting spec' that's the has importance to the OEMs but not to us end users.


The industry disagrees with this.

Also, why should the OEMs care and we should not? Who's driving the car and paying ownership costs, the OEM or us?
 
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Marco620
In winter weather I can deal with a higher noack as heat wont be the monster of my problems as it is right now. Thanks

Just curious as to how Noack has any relevance at all to whatever it is that you are concerned about? It's an interesting spec' that's the has importance to the OEMs but not to us end users.


I agree. It should have little relevance unless noack is too high..if i remember nextgen was overly high..but again dont think that one feature makes any difference.Noack at 6 or noack at 12..not much a difference.
 
Originally Posted By: Rolla07

I agree. It should have little relevance unless noack is too high..if i remember nextgen was overly high..but again dont think that one feature makes any difference.Noack at 6 or noack at 12..not much a difference.


It's not a feature, it's a property. And it's not on some dimensionless scale like other properties, it's a direct percentage measurement of total volume LOSS via a PHASE CHANGE from liquid to vapour.

When you actually think about it, it's kind of significant.

Though at some point in BITOG history, there was proposed a NOACK vs TEOST battle, and now it just appears certain people aren't arguing for clarity, understanding , 'relevance to reality' or operating conditions with more power dense engines, but merely to be right and/or cliche.
 
Its only important to me for the fact that GDi motors seem to stay cleaner and consume less oil which in turn makes my intervals of having to clean exhaust valves less often. I have had great luck w redline 5w30, but the price is a bit high for 5k mile oci. Was kinda hoping that PUP would be a poor mans RL 5w30. Just trying to give my car the best of everything from petrol to oil. Its no wonder I am a Montreal Canadiens hockey fan; I like the best. Go Habs go
 
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Originally Posted By: Marco620
Its only important to me for the fact that GDi motors seem to stay cleaner and consume less oil which in turn makes my intervals of having to clean exhaust valves less often. I have had great luck w redline 5w30, but the price is a bit high for 5k mile oci. Was kinda hoping that PUP would be a poor mans RL 5w30. Just trying to give my car the best of everything from petrol to oil.

If you're concerned with valve deposits I'd be more interested in the oil's TEOST deposit score than Noack.
That said, PUP 5W-30 has little in common with RL 5W-30 which really is a 40 grade oil. M1 0W-40 has about the same operational viscosity as RL 5W-30 plus it should have a much better TEOST deposit score than RL which is not good at all.

But if your car is spec'd for 5W-30 which I suspect it is, then I'd suggest you try Castrol Edge 5W-30 which has the lowest TEOST deposit level that I know of plus a reasonably low 10-11% Noack although I don't think Noack plays any significant role at all in-back-of-valve deposits.
 
Quote:
Thus, a lower value indicates a better result; a value below one indicates performance within the permitted limit and a value greater than one indicates performance outside the permitted limit.
Comparing the results of Examples 1 and 2 together, with the result of Example A shows that, at constant Noack volatility, the presence of the ashless organic friction modifiers in A has given rise to sufficient deterioration in performance in the test.

Comparing the results of Examples A and B shows that, at the same level of ashless organic friction modifiers, increase in Noack volatility in moving from Example A to Example B
has given rise to deterioration in performance.

http://www.google.com/patents/CA2578668A1?cl=en
 
If you're really concrned with NOACK, Redline has plenty of oils like their 20w50 with only 6% NOACK.

The PUP NOACK isn't bad, its just higher than the last formula. It's still plenty within the API SN specification.

I am sure to get the oil to peform the way they wanted to in other categories such as cleanliness, deposit control, cold flow they had to sacrifice a little NOACK; no biggie!
 
Thanks a million for everyone who had input. This data/opinions will be taken to heart in my oil oci future. I just scored 3qts 5w20 castrol edge w titanium for 5.00 each. Have a nice weekend everyone!
 
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