You need to start with the most simple solutions first. Remove the driver's door panel and check all the wiring there for the speaker and also the power door locks and windows if you have them. Check the wires all the way from the door panel up to where they enter the cab at the door jamb. Check the molex connectors on the door jamb too. Check the speaker itself to be sure it is not shorted or damaged. Make sure its wiring and terminals are not touching metal in the door cavity, this will cause an aftermarket deck to mute its outputs to avoid damage.
Then pull the radio and check for voltage on the power wires at the radio, then smack the door and check the power to see if you can mimic the problem. Use a digital volt meter set for continuity and test each speaker wire for continuity to ground. If the radio wiring in the dash checks out OK then move on to the fuse panel, check for bent, blown or corroded fuses and bad connections behind the fuse panel. You could also have an internal problem in the radio. You can do a primitive bench test by removing the radio, connect power and ground straight to the battery and use a known working speaker on each of the speaker outputs, if it works that way try tapping the case of the radio with an open hand or screwdriver handle to see if it shuts off again.
Mid-90's Dodges and Chryslers sometimes had problems with the wiring running from the door jamb into the door cavity. Check that door wiring very carefully. You might even try disconnecting the factory wires and running your own new wire to the left front speaker and see if the problem persists after that. If your radio is grounded to the factory braided ground strap behind the radio, disconnect it and run a new ground, use about a 14 to 16 gauge wire and ground it to clean bare metal under a factory-installed existing bolt or nut in one of the kick panels. The braided ground straps were horrible and would become contaminated over time.