Trigger on Glocks

[bubbatime]

The trigger on the Glock is very safe with proper training and of course proper holster covering the trigger.

If you really can't get past the Glock trigger, check out a snag free snub nose revolver like a Smith & Wesson 642 or 442. The triggers on those are about 10 pounds and have a long pull. A very safe trigger indeed.

 

[strat81]

Remember that trigger pull is a compromise.

If you break rule #3 and put your finger on the trigger when you are not ready to fire, a light trigger can cause a negligent discharge.

A heavy trigger will hurt your ability to place accurate shots on target. Every bullet that leaves the muzzle is your responsibility, including those that miss your intended target. If that "miss" results in property damage, injury, or death to something or someone, you're responsible (IOW, remember rule #4).

But don't take my word for it. Head out to the range with a shot timer and some IPSC targets and perform some El Presidente drills at 3, 7, and 10 yards. Bring along a J-frame, an LCP, a Glock, a Super Redhawk, and a Gold Cup (or whatever you have). If you have a Glock, perform the drill with the stock trigger and one with a NY1 or NY2 trigger. Compare your times.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
The P32 is essentially the same size as the .380 P3AT or Ruger LCP.

It's a no brainier to carry the .380 instead.


The P-3AT lacks something I find critically important in a gun: a last-round slide hold-open. Kel-tec says that was a compromise they made to keep a tight size with the larger caliber. The Ruger LCP is terribly inaccurate in my hand due to the very poor trigger and poor fit in my hand. I really can't hit the side of a barn with the Ruger unfortunately...and I like Rugers, so I want to like that gun.

I'm very accurate and quick with the P-32. The trigger is glass-smooth, about 5-6 pounds, with a nice crisp break at the very end. It's an excellent gun, with a very loyal following.

With a few exceptions, none of the 380s really appeal to me after looking around. Exceptions are the Glock 42 and the S&W Bodyguard, though both trade size for that extra caliber. If/when I want something larger or heavier than the P-32, I'll likely move to a 9mm.

 

[Win]

Originally Posted By: Robenstein
Originally Posted By: Win

I prefer the .32 over the .380.


So does the person you are shooting. The 32ACP, even with good JHP ammo is pretty darn weak. I have a Manurhin (french made Walther PP) in 32acp and can attest the old Walthers have about an 18lb DA pull.


In the PPK or PPK/S. Sorry that was not more clear.

 

[Gillsy]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
The P32 is essentially the same size as the .380 P3AT or Ruger LCP.

It's a no brainier to carry the .380 instead.


The P-3AT lacks something I find critically important in a gun: a last-round slide hold-open. Kel-tec says that was a compromise they made to keep a tight size with the larger caliber. The Ruger LCP is terribly inaccurate in my hand due to the very poor trigger and poor fit in my hand. I really can't hit the side of a barn with the Ruger unfortunately...and I like Rugers, so I want to like that gun.

I'm very accurate and quick with the P-32. The trigger is glass-smooth, about 5-6 pounds, with a nice crisp break at the very end. It's an excellent gun, with a very loyal following.

With a few exceptions, none of the 380s really appeal to me after looking around. Exceptions are the Glock 42 and the S&W Bodyguard, though both trade size for that extra caliber. If/when I want something larger or heavier than the P-32, I'll likely move to a 9mm.

Ever look at a Kahr CW-380? A bit smaller than a LCP with a nice trigger. It fits nice in my pocket. I can't talk to accuracy yet because it's new to me yet. Flawless with Federal American Eagle, and horrible with Remington UMC (frequent jams). I don't regret the purchase.

 

[DakotaGlockGuy]

I think I can give you some input on this, as I'm a certified Glock Armorer and also specialize in Glock trigger enhancements as well as custom stippling. If you google (or facebook) Tactical Texture and Triggers, LLC. That is me...

Anyway, the vast majority of stock Glocks have a trigger that is much rougher and heavier than it needs to be, and changing out a simple piece like a spring or connector is not going to cure the problem. The internal parts are typical mass-produced quality, with very rough surfaces that need to be more than just polished - they need to be trued up first, otherwise all you have is shiny rough metal. If you really want a great Glock trigger, you're options are to either

A. Get the gun to someone in your area (or ship it to a qualified FFL/Glocksmith) in another area, or

B. Buy a drop in trigger system for it, which is NOT an option for the 42 at this time.

Either of these two will make the Glock feel night and day different in terms of trigger feel AND you will still have a gun that will eat any ammo and require less than normal maintenance to keep you and your family safe.

Now onto the bad news: The 42 is NOT a typical Glock. The internals, ESPECIALLY the trigger system is VERY different than ANY other Glock. In fact, there is only ONE piece (firing pin safety spring) that will work between the two. EVERY other piece (trigger bar, firing pin safety, connector, etc.) is SPECIFIC to the 42 ONLY!

As far as a Glock goes, the stock 42 has the worst/heaviest trigger of the bunch, but it can be made much better. The Glock 42 was only released at the Shot show in January of this year, so there are really no aftermarket trigger parts to swap out. In fact, there are only a few places that make sights for it, and you need a special tool I just bought to adapt a traditional sized sight pusher to hold the super small slide.

Now don't get me wrong, the 42 is a great gun, and I got one for my wife for our anniversary (see picture), it's just that it's a very different Glock, and there is less that I, or any other skilled smith can do to make it better, at least right now. I have made hers dramatically better, and a stock trigger will get noticeably better the more rounds you put through it, but a every other Gen 3 or 4 Glock trigger will start out WAY ahead of this little gun and stay there.

*NOTE: This Glock 42 has my texturing (stippling), trigger work, and the Pearce Mag extensions. The gun also has a new set of XS Big Dot sights for the 42. My wife LOVES this little gun!!!

Mike...

 

[ChrisD46]

DakotaGlockGuy : I recall a company (name I forget at the moment...) who sells a aftermarket 1911 type drop in trigger assembly for Glocks - performance is said to equal the 1911 type trigger as well . What is your opinion of this type of 1911 trigger assembly in a Glock ? ...Any other aftermarket trigger systems you endorse as being good to consider in a Glock (i.e. smooth , short travel / take up , etc.) ?

 

[DakotaGlockGuy]

Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
DakotaGlockGuy : I recall a company (name I forget at the moment...) who sells a aftermarket 1911 type drop in trigger assembly for Glocks - performance is said to equal the 1911 type trigger as well . What is your opinion of this type of 1911 trigger assembly in a Glock ? ...Any other aftermarket trigger systems you endorse as being good to consider in a Glock (i.e. smooth , short travel / take up , etc.) ?


First, there is NO trigger system out there that will turn a Glock trigger into a 1911 trigger. The trigger designs are totally different with the Glock being a fulcrum style and the 1911 being a rail slide design. Even the way the springs work are different in that the Glock trigger spring works under tension, whereas a 1911 works under compression.

That said you can get a dramatically better Glock trigger. You may be thinking of companies like: glocktriggers.com, or a high end shop like Vanek. I can tune the trigger like that cheaper since I use existing parts of the gun. Either way though none of those are available for the 42, as the trigger system is totally different from any other Glock currently produced.

Once you get used to a Glock trigger, it's actually pretty nice. It's a 2-stage, but, just as in a 1911, if you do it correctly it will *feel* like a single action after the first shot once you learn to shoot from the reset of the gun, instead of letting the trigger out all the way.

The proper technique for shooting a Glock is: Slack out - Front Sight - Press. Here's how you do it.

SLACK OUT: As you are bringing the gun up to the target, you are taking the slack out of the trigger. You can feel a pretty decent "wall" when you pull the trigger back. The trigger pull is easy when you start (the "slack"), then hits a wall. Just beyond that wall is where the shot will break.

FRONT SIGHT: You are now on target, so it's time to change our focus from the target to the front sight. I'm also an NRA Pistol Instructor, so believe me when I say Focusing on that front sight is THE KEY to accuracy with ANY pistol. Focus on that front sight like you are trying to look for scratches or dust on it!

PRESS: Now with the slack, or take up out of the trigger, and our gun on target, you simply PRESS all the way through smoothly with the trigger and HOLD IT all the way to the rear of the motion. The gun will fire, the slide will cycle. Now, when you slowly release your finger tension on the trigger, you will hear a "CLICK". That is the trigger re-setting, and as far as you need to go to squeeze off another round. Observe how short of a pull you need with a Glock trigger from the reset point until the shot breaks. It's about 1/8". The long part of a travel is mostly slack, which is also another safety feature. You have to REALLY pull the trigger for the gun to fire that first shot. That's also why there are no accidental discharges with a Glock. There are NEGLIGENT discharges, but no accidental ones. If the gun went BANG, you pulled the trigger, and that's what the gun was supposed to do.

I've shot a lot of different pistols, and prefer the feel of a modified Glock trigger. By modified I mean that it has that same, two-stage feel, but just a much smoother, cleaner breaking version of it. That's the way I do them for customers, and they tend to like them a lot, too!

 

[ChrisD46]

Very interesting - thank you to share !
I would imagine the point of staring at the front site just before the break is to focus on being steady ?
I have experienced the short re-set click for the 2nd shot and beyond ... Nice !
Lastly , a lot of positive reviews of 3.5lb connectors (like a higher end Ghost) ...While quite possibly good to lesson or smooth out the break - I'm not sure that installing a Ghost 3.5lb. connector is the be all end all to a good Glock trigger . Perhaps goes double for a EDC Glock to keep the higher foot pound pull of the stock trigger ?

 

[DakotaGlockGuy]

Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Very interesting - thank you to share !
I would imagine the point of staring at the front site just before the break is to focus on being steady ?
I have experienced the short re-set click for the 2nd shot and beyond ... Nice !
Lastly , a lot of positive reviews of 3.5lb connectors (like a higher end Ghost) ...While quite possibly good to lesson or smooth out the break - I'm not sure that installing a Ghost 3.5lb. connector is the be all end all to a good Glock trigger . Perhaps goes double for a EDC Glock to keep the higher foot pound pull of the stock trigger ?


I'm not trying to bash them, but there are a lot of negative reviews about Ghost connectors. I would never put a Ghost connector in any of my guns. I use stock dot or minus connectors only.

Again though just swapping out a connector will make the pull a little bit lighter, and almost insignificantly smoother. To make the trigger great you need someone who knows what the real problem areas are, and knows what they are doing enough to fix them!