The confusion around BMW M oils continues

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Originally Posted By: BMW Oil Supplier Listing Aug2013 V2
*The following is the only recommended and approved synthetic oil for BMW M (Motorsport) vehicles in the US market with gasoline engines, at the present time.

BMW Long-life rating LL-01 Synthetic Oils for BMW M vehicles
equipped with S54, S62, S65 or S85 engines

Castrol EDGE Professional TWS Motorsport SAE 10W-60 Synthetic Engine Oil, BMW part number 07 51 0 009 420
or
Castrol Edge Professional OE 5W30 Synthetic Engine Oil, BMW part number 07 51 0 037 195

This list is a cluster**** in more than one way. BMW part number 07 51 0 037 195 is a low-ash LL-04 oil for diesel engines. They want you to run it in your gasoline M engine? Right...
 
Lets get realistic. Most luxury owners don't do there own oil changes. I doubt BMW cares about this confusion. Heck they might be causing it to prevent you from your doing your own. Wouldnt be the first or the last time!
 
Originally Posted By: rw19
Heck they might be causing it to prevent you from your doing your own.

Agreed. I basically came to the same conclusion the last time this topic was discussed - let's scare the average Joe into thinking that BMW/Castrol oil is the only oil that can be used, and make him think that the safest thing to do is to have him bring the car to the dealer.
 
I'm up for an oil change and am thinking of mixing my castrol 10w60 with either castrol 0w30 or 0w40 which I hear is new. My engine in the winter rarely hits 210 degrees so I'm thinking the 10w60 is too thick. As summer approaches I tend to burn oil, so as I do I'm thinking I will add 10w60 as weather gets hotter. To start I was going to do 6qt of 10w60 with 3qt of the thinner stuff. Any thoughts? I have read and read and read on this topic both here and on the m3 forum and so many running M1 0w40 have had great blackstone reports and are claiming better power because engine isn't working as hard with the thinner oil. I would love input from anyone on this. I know what BMW says and what the manual says but a guy in AZ probably wouldn't use the same oil as a guy running in near freezing temps right?
 
Originally Posted By: brian_fantana
I'm up for an oil change and am thinking of mixing my castrol 10w60 with either castrol 0w30 or 0w40 which I hear is new. My engine in the winter rarely hits 210 degrees so I'm thinking the 10w60 is too thick. As summer approaches I tend to burn oil, so as I do I'm thinking I will add 10w60 as weather gets hotter. To start I was going to do 6qt of 10w60 with 3qt of the thinner stuff. Any thoughts? I have read and read and read on this topic both here and on the m3 forum and so many running M1 0w40 have had great blackstone reports and are claiming better power because engine isn't working as hard with the thinner oil. I would love input from anyone on this. I know what BMW says and what the manual says but a guy in AZ probably wouldn't use the same oil as a guy running in near freezing temps right?



There's no need to mix. Either run TWS, or run something else. Don't play home-chemist. While API oils must mix with other API oils, the results may not be optimal. Since your car is burning oil, you might want to use the TWS to slow that down.

Then again, you could try the 0w40 and see what happens. Worst case, the consumption goes up and you just switch back to TWS. The 0w40 is certainly up to the task in the S65.

FWIW, my car on M1 0w40 barely touches 210 in the winter either. Remember that these are not air-cooled cars so there's very little oil temperature difference across the different seasons.
 
I'm running M1 0W40 with a can of LM MoS2....and I'm not burning oil. Either M3 is just not burning oil, or MoS2 is really helping in that regard.
 
What made you switch to M1? I see your in IL. and with your winter I'm sure the M1 has been more than necessary. I have always burned oil since I purchased the car with 29k miles. I burn like 2 qts between changes. I'm not sure if it's my driving habits during warm up or if it's how the car was driven during break in. Although I'm really starting to be more aware of what I'm doing before my temp is over 200.
 
Originally Posted By: Leonardo629
I'm running M1 0W40 with a can of LM MoS2....and I'm not burning oil. Either M3 is just not burning oil, or MoS2 is really helping in that regard.



Mos2 is great stuff man.
Try ceratec. Its like mos2 but uses ceramic nano particles or something. It last for 30000 miles between treatments too however I'm using it every second oil change. I've got a stash.
 
Originally Posted By: brian_fantana
What made you switch to M1? I see your in IL. and with your winter I'm sure the M1 has been more than necessary. I have always burned oil since I purchased the car with 29k miles. I burn like 2 qts between changes. I'm not sure if it's my driving habits during warm up or if it's how the car was driven during break in. Although I'm really starting to be more aware of what I'm doing before my temp is over 200.


Because why not? It's a great oil that's up to the challenge.

Burning 2 quarts between changes is above average. Mine burns zero.
 
Just realized who I was talking to.... Your on every oil post on the m3 forum. Given my situation what would you do if you were in my shoes. Planning to have a blackstone report done with this oil change to see how I'm doing, but I really don't beat my ride. I'm on the freeway the majority of the time with the cruise set. I would think the oil burning occurs pre operating temp no?
 
A can of MoS2 is around $5.60 plus tax where I live, and I have a little stash of it. I don't know about running Ceratec in my M3, but so far I notice no ill effect with MoS2 and my car is not burning oil even though I occasionally rev my car to 8600RPM.




Originally Posted By: Clevy
Mos2 is great stuff man.
Try ceratec. Its like mos2 but uses ceramic nano particles or something. It last for 30000 miles between treatments too however I'm using it every second oil change. I've got a stash.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: brian_fantana
Just realized who I was talking to.... Your on every oil post on the m3 forum. Given my situation what would you do if you were in my shoes. Planning to have a blackstone report done with this oil change to see how I'm doing, but I really don't beat my ride. I'm on the freeway the majority of the time with the cruise set. I would think the oil burning occurs pre operating temp no?



I'd run the M1 0w40 without hesitation.

Are you positive the oil is burning and it's not leaking?
 
Yes positive. Its garaged so I would spot if I was leaking, plus the smell is extremely distinct. I have been using the service warning as to when it's time to change. I'm not even sure what the intervals are between changes. My ignorance is kind of embarrassing. From what I have read it's very common to go 5k I think. A habit I'll probably adopt.

I did see some guys posting saying they were going through 1 qt every 2-3k. I'm doing a qt like every 6 months. Leonardo629 (another huge m3 poster) has me tempted to try that additive he's using.
 
The factory interval is 15k, or whenever the car tells you to change it.

Most guys opt to split the difference and change it every 7-8k. I would certainly keep an eye on that consumption. If it is consistently drinking that much oil you are probably okay, but if the rate is going up then you should be investigating.
 
Originally Posted By: brian_fantana
Yes positive. Its garaged so I would spot if I was leaking, plus the smell is extremely distinct. I have been using the service warning as to when it's time to change. I'm not even sure what the intervals are between changes. My ignorance is kind of embarrassing. From what I have read it's very common to go 5k I think. A habit I'll probably adopt.

I did see some guys posting saying they were going through 1 qt every 2-3k. I'm doing a qt like every 6 months. Leonardo629 (another huge m3 poster) has me tempted to try that additive he's using.


Personally I think type of break-in has much to do with regards to oil consumption. Pity BMW doesn't do a break-in for the engine at the factory.
 
I didn't want to mention break-in procedures because it's a can of worm that needn't be opened.

I have been in the "hard" break-in camp since my younger motorcycle days, so of course I couldn't shake the old habit even when it comes to cars.

I really can't tell you if it's the MoS2 or my break-in method, but my S65 is not burning oil (I have around 4000mi accumulated on the M1 0W40, will change at @ 5000mi and an UOA).

High revving M motors are equipped with low tension piston rings according to a quote I read by a M engineer, so it's normal to burn some oil, did you check your oil cap? BMW oil caps do not seal for the amount we pay for these M cars.
 
BMW M engines have the 1200 mile break-in period. Special oil and redline is severely reduced. Most modern motors come broken-in anyway.

Not sure why there's an expectation that a car should burn zero oil. As long as it is drinking it at a reasonable and consistent rate, keep on driving it and enjoying it.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Most modern motors come broken-in anyway.



It is the opposite. 95-97% of engines aren't fired at the factory. They are only cold tested.
 
Originally Posted By: vinu_neuro
Originally Posted By: dparm
Most modern motors come broken-in anyway.



It is the opposite. 95-97% of engines aren't fired at the factory. They are only cold tested.



I oversimplified. Modern engines are built with very good tolerances and didn't have the variation you used to see 40+ years ago. The notion of break-in is not what it used to be.

I know for a fact that BMW does put all their cars on the dyno before they leave the factory.
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
Originally Posted By: vinu_neuro
Originally Posted By: dparm
Most modern motors come broken-in anyway.



It is the opposite. 95-97% of engines aren't fired at the factory. They are only cold tested.



I oversimplified. Modern engines are built with very good tolerances and didn't have the variation you used to see 40+ years ago. The notion of break-in is not what it used to be.

I know for a fact that BMW does put all their cars on the dyno before they leave the factory.


+1, but they're not cycles under different loads from what I understand.
 
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