1997 GMC Suburban K2500 6.5TD

[Scotty_D]

Everybody has been awesome here. So much advice. So many vehicles to change fluids on.

The victim this time:
224k mi 1997 GMC Suburban K2500 6.5TD

I've got three oil reports for you. First one is from when I purchased the vehicle.
Of note on the third report: I installed an intercooler a bit before the oil change and was naughty. I didn't take the cast aluminum intake off when cutting it. Cleaned it out as best as possible but I know material got into the engine. How much, I'm not sure.

Reports: http://d.pr/f/YOCL

First oil filter was a NAPA Gold, second was a POS Parts Master brand (I know, I know) and now I'm back to NAPA and ready to change the oil. I've always been running Delo (really cheap at Costco).

Should I be running something different for the oil? Should I run a different filter? Any additives I should use?

 

[Donald]

I am only seeing one UOA and there is no mention about how long the OCI was.

The iron is high. But if the OCI was say 10K miles, then the iron is OK, if its a 3K OCI, the iron is high.

Most of the aluminum chips were probably blasted out the exhaust valve. Some may be in the filter. I would not worry much. But remind myself not to have you install an intercooler in my vehicles.

Does the engine have a turbo? That is where intercoolers are typically used.

 

[Scotty_D]

Originally Posted By: Donald
I am only seeing one UOA and there is no mention about how long the OCI was.

The iron is high. But if the OCI was say 10K miles, then the iron is OK, if its a 3K OCI, the iron is high.

Most of the aluminum chips were probably blasted out the exhaust valve. Some may be in the filter. I would not worry much. But remind myself not to have you install an intercooler in my vehicles.

Does the engine have a turbo? That is where intercoolers are typically used.


Hmmm...there should be three pages. Let me re-do the links.

First. Not sure on OCI: http://cl.ly/123V1P3i0l0l
Second. ~5k OCI: http://cl.ly/0k0L2Z1l0E2Z
Third. 10k OCI: http://cl.ly/2j3z0T0F0328

Factory turbo. GM in infinite wisdom felt that a IC was not needed. I can tell you they be wrong. It's no Cummins but it's much better than factory.

 

[Shaman]

Scotty, I think the decision was made due to the high compression of the engine and low boost setting of the turbo that it wouldn't be beneficial enough at "stock" boost level.

 

[umungus1122]

Pardon my ignorance, but why are all your vehicles listed as "fail...."? Are they beat up or something?

 

[Scotty_D]

Originally Posted By: Shaman
Scotty, I think the decision was made due to the high compression of the engine and low boost setting of the turbo that it wouldn't be beneficial enough at "stock" boost level.


But if they had made the decision to install one, they could have run a tad more boost and not had the issue of reaching peak IAT within 3 seconds of towing up a slight grade.

Originally Posted By: umungus1122
Pardon my ignorance, but why are all your vehicles listed as "fail...."? Are they beat up or something?


The joke started off with my wagon as when I bought it it was in pretty bad shape and pretty unreliable and always "failing". And the joke has lived on since the corral of vehicles has been expanded on.

 

[Dave01]

Scotty, I've had 3 6.5's and am looking for a 4th, so have a little experience with them. The boost needs to stay below 15 psi on a stock 6.5, if you put ARP studs in you can maybe push toward 20 but I wouldn't. I assume you've already put a manual boost controller and removed the vacuum pump if you are running an intercooler.

I ran Baldwin B1428 oil filters for quite a while, also Napa gold. Delo is fine, as is Rotella 15W40. I ran Amsoil synthetic diesel and marine 15W40 for quite a while with good results, it has excellent cold pour properties. I found UOA so helpful on mine because with the soot in the oil you just can't tell anything from looking at the oil, after 1000 miles it looks dark but my results showed plenty of oil life left after 5,000 plus miles, probably could run 7,000 easily but I was chicken.

I love 6.5's! Hope this helps.

 

[Scotty_D]

Originally Posted By: Dave01
Scotty, I've had 3 6.5's and am looking for a 4th, so have a little experience with them. The boost needs to stay below 15 psi on a stock 6.5, if you put ARP studs in you can maybe push toward 20 but I wouldn't. I assume you've already put a manual boost controller and removed the vacuum pump if you are running an intercooler.


I'm running ~12-14psi I'd rather keep it a bit low. I'm afraid I'm going to scatter the crankshaft, front pulley or flexplate. Running the Heath diesel manual controller, vacuum pump deleted. Need a better intake, need to fix some stuff with the intercooler and need to do the optical trick for the PMD.

Quote:
I ran Baldwin B1428 oil filters for quite a while, also Napa gold. Delo is fine, as is Rotella 15W40. I ran Amsoil synthetic diesel and marine 15W40 for quite a while with good results, it has excellent cold pour properties. I found UOA so helpful on mine because with the soot in the oil you just can't tell anything from looking at the oil, after 1000 miles it looks dark but my results showed plenty of oil life left after 5,000 plus miles, probably could run 7,000 easily but I was chicken.

I love 6.5's! Hope this helps.


Any additives you might suggest?

 

[Dave01]

Originally Posted By: Scotty_D
Any additives you might suggest?

I've done a few different additive strategies with my 6.5's. What I like the best is to run 1:400 of Power Service or other fuel treatment/cetane boost additive plus 1:200 of TCW-3 2 stroke oil. I pre-mixed in quart bottles so would just put it in together when I filled the tank. For example, to 25 gallons of diesel I was adding 8 oz. of Power Service (white bottle in winter, grey bottle in summer) and 16 oz. of TCW-3.

It seems like a lot of additive, but these engines need lubricity help with ULSD and the 2-stroke does a good job. I know some people add 30 weight motor oil instead of the 2-stroke, same idea but I like the 2-stroke better. Another way to get the lubricity is to run B5 biodiesel but if you go that route have a bunch of fuel filters on hand for the first 10,000 miles or so.

 

[Scotty_D]

Originally Posted By: Dave01
Originally Posted By: Scotty_D
Any additives you might suggest?

I've done a few different additive strategies with my 6.5's. What I like the best is to run 1:400 of Power Service or other fuel treatment/cetane boost additive plus 1:200 of TCW-3 2 stroke oil. I pre-mixed in quart bottles so would just put it in together when I filled the tank. For example, to 25 gallons of diesel I was adding 8 oz. of Power Service (white bottle in winter, grey bottle in summer) and 16 oz. of TCW-3.

It seems like a lot of additive, but these engines need lubricity help with ULSD and the 2-stroke does a good job. I know some people add 30 weight motor oil instead of the 2-stroke, same idea but I like the 2-stroke better. Another way to get the lubricity is to run B5 biodiesel but if you go that route have a bunch of fuel filters on hand for the first 10,000 miles or so.


I wish I had B5 on hand. I've been using the Opti-lube stuff and it seems to make a difference. You would recommend Power Service + TC-W3 over anything else?

 

[Dave01]

I used Power Service because we were using it at work so was easily available, also an Amsoil diesel additive for a while, there's a variety of them that would be fine to use. I like having something with anti-gel in the winter. So you can substitute your favorite diesel additive for the Power Service.

With 224,000 on it, have you had to replace the injection pump? I'm pretty sure it had to be replaced at some point. Stanadyne DB4 electronic pumps need a few things to stay healthy; good lift pump pressure, lubricity additive in the fuel.

 

[cronk]

FYI, Parts Master oil filters are made by Wix, just like NAPA's.
The Parts master filters are the same thing as a NAPA Silver, at least the one I cut open was. Parts master just doesn't make a "gold" filter like NAPA, you buy the Parts Master (silver) or the genuine Wix (napa gold)
On your oil choice the Delo is really good stuff, can't really go wrong with it. I know the local Walmart has it for $10.88 a gallon, it's a real bargain!

 

[Dave01]

Wow, that's cheap for Delo! I may have to pick some up!

I'd definitely go with Wix or the Gold, and from what I researched at the time the Baldwin filters were excellent as well. I bought them online, not too expensive, I'd buy maybe 3 oil filters and 3 fuel filters at the same time. The Baldwin fuel filter is MUCH better than stock for a 6.5, and I think someone else is making a good one now too.

I'd spend money on a good oil filter every time even if I was buying the cheapest oil I could find.

 

[Scotty_D]

Originally Posted By: cronk
FYI, Parts Master oil filters are made by Wix, just like NAPA's.


Interesting. I had cold start oil pressure issues and I figured it was because of that filter. The next 10k didn't have that issue.

 

[bullwinkle]

Just out of curiosity-are you running any of the later GM 6.5 cooling mods, such as a higher output water pump or the dual thermostat setup? That's the biggest fear, along with nodular iron crankshaft failure, blowing HGs, & head/block cracking, that I would have with trying to make more power out of a 6.5. I've seen a few 6.5TDs that were abused or worked hard that didn't make it to 100K without losing a crank.

 

[Scotty_D]

Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Just out of curiosity-are you running any of the later GM 6.5 cooling mods, such as a higher output water pump or the dual thermostat setup? That's the biggest fear, along with nodular iron crankshaft failure, blowing HGs, & head/block cracking, that I would have with trying to make more power out of a 6.5. I've seen a few 6.5TDs that were abused or worked hard that didn't make it to 100K without losing a crank.


Yea the '97 had the final round of improvements. Oil squirters in the back half of the block, better WP and dual thermostats. Burping the cooling system is a pain the [censored] though.