Recommended Oil for 2014 Hyundai Sonata 2.0 Turbo

[jamesyarbrough]

Originally Posted By: RichardSenn
Here is what the owners manual says and I definitely want to stay within warranty.

I got the dealer to agree to free oil changes for the first 2 years every 3000 miles and not just standard 2 year oil change which is really just 6 oil changes. That said I'll be bringing in my own oil and basically be getting a filter and free labor, and yes I will be watching them like a hawk to make sure they use what I bring.





They allow a 40! I would have to go with M1 0w40 then

 

[Eddie]

The reason I don't believe in very early oil changes is that modern engines are assembled with assembly lubes and possibly even oil additives to assist in breaking in and burnishing the sliding & rubbing parts. Let the additives do what they are intended for and not drain them out too early. I personally am also eager for the fist OC but, resist. If the first recomended oil change is at 5,000 miles, I will not change before 2,500 miles and that is probable too soon. My vehicles, including DI turbo vehicles are sold at 125 to 140,000 miles, running very well and having no oil consumption issues. Ed

 

[SF0059]

PU would be my top pick for OTC.

 

[RichardSenn]

Originally Posted By: Brybo86
knowing you were going to be picky about the oil why negotiate for free oil changes? Id rather have some oem all weather floor mats, trunk liner, etc

That being said I would ask the dealer for a list of oils you can choose from and go from there


The oil change negotiation happened after we had already settled on price and additional items like window tint, etc. The dealer had a 2 year maintenance plan included and it wasn't until he slid the paper over to me to sign that plan that I said something, because it said 2 years or 6 oil changes whichever comes first. I figured why not at least get free labor and filters out of it.

 

[RichardSenn]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
The reason I don't believe in very early oil changes is that modern engines are assembled with assembly lubes and possibly even oil additives to assist in breaking in and burnishing the sliding & rubbing parts. Let the additives do what they are intended for and not drain them out too early. I personally am also eager for the fist OC but, resist. If the first recomended oil change is at 5,000 miles, I will not change before 2,500 miles and that is probable too soon. My vehicles, including DI turbo vehicles are sold at 125 to 140,000 miles, running very well and having no oil consumption issues. Ed


That makes sense, it's something I hadn't considered. Thanks for the insight I might wait until the recommended 3000 miles for the first change before switching to synthetic.

 

[RichardSenn]

Originally Posted By: jamesyarbrough

They allow a 40! I would have to go with M1 0w40 then


They allow 5w40 but I don't think they allow 0w40. I'll have to call Hyundai and find out.

 

[Eddie]

I read that the prefered oil is a 5w20 for better mileage. I would pick a 5w30 that meets the turbo spec of Honda.Acura like PP or M1 5w30. No reason to use the heaver 40wt on this new engine IMO. Ed

 

[RichardSenn]

After searching more on the forums and online, and finding some studies on 5W30 motor oil comparisons from Amsoil and another on load carrying capacity/film strength I'm leaning towards Pennzoil Ultra 5W30.

Plus it meets all the requested specs in the owners manual and it looks like it's reasonably priced at around $30 for 5 quarts.

Capacity on the Sonata 2.0 is 5.28 quarts so I'll have to end up keeping an extra quart around to top off the 5 quart jug.

 

[stranger706]

Originally Posted By: RichardSenn
Here is what the owners manual says and I definitely want to stay within warranty.




Wow nice chart. And a nice little explanation too. Why don't all OM come with this? So basically it says you can use any SM oil from 5w30 to 20w50. In 2014. How does the EPA let them get away with this?

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: RichardSenn
I might wait until the recommended 3000 miles for the first change before switching to synthetic.

What is the factory fill on this car? Isn't it some kind of synthetic blend anyway?

 

[Bandito440]

Originally Posted By: RichardSenn
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
It looks like Rotella T6 is within spec. 5w-40 and API SM. Considering the library of UOAs the turbo Subaru crowd has on the stuff, I'd go that route. It seems to keep turbos happy.


Another portion of the manual mentions ACEA A5 or above along with ILSAC GF-4 and API Service SM.

Is the Rotella T6 within those specs? You'll have to forgive me I'm not an oil expert, which is why I'm here.


T6 is API SM. The chart doesn't suggest that all of those specs must must be met, so I'd go that route. There is also a 5w-40 Pennzoil Ultra that I'm sure would do fine.

Still, considering Rotella's reputation for keeping turbos happy, I'd go that route over an SN 5w-30.

 

[wemay]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: RichardSenn
I might wait until the recommended 3000 miles for the first change before switching to synthetic.

What is the factory fill on this car? Isn't it some kind of synthetic blend anyway?


I've been 'told' (by Service Techs at two different dealerships) it's a SOPUS conventional. Either Formula Shell, QSGB or PYB. Not sure how much stock to we should put into that though.

 

[RichardSenn]

Originally Posted By: wemay
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: RichardSenn
I might wait until the recommended 3000 miles for the first change before switching to synthetic.

What is the factory fill on this car? Isn't it some kind of synthetic blend anyway?


I've been 'told' (by Service Techs at two different dealerships) it's a SOPUS conventional. Either Formula Shell, QSGB or PYB. Not sure how much stock to we should put into that though.


Dealer here in Tulsa told me its a conventional bulk Mobil oil.

I requested the oil analysis kit from Blackstone and also ordered the vacuum pump. Can the vacuum pump be used when the car is at operating temp or would that be i'll advised?

Planning on pulling a sample of the factory fill and then a couple more samples along the way.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: RichardSenn
Can the vacuum pump be used when the car is at operating temp or would that be i'll advised?

Depends on the tubing that you end up using. Some types of tubing is hard plastic and won't be affected by heat. other types will collapse when exposed to heat.

Quote:

Planning on pulling a sample of the factory fill

What are you trying to find out?

 

[RichardSenn]

Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: RichardSenn
Can the vacuum pump be used when the car is at operating temp or would that be i'll advised?

Depends on the tubing that you end up using. Some types of tubing is hard plastic and won't be affected by heat. other types will collapse when exposed to heat.

Quote:

Planning on pulling a sample of the factory fill

What are you trying to find out?


The tubing from Blackstone is pretty thick 1/4" refrigerator line tubing.

Figured it be good to have an analysis on the factory fill, mostly just curious what it will say. Is it basically a useless analysis?

 

[RichardSenn]

Not sure if this would change any opinions on which oil to use but yesterday I made a 200 mile trip at 80 mph on the turnpike and using my TorquePro app with the OBD2 scanner it looks like my CVVT Oil Temperature stays at 216.9 degrees for it's operating temperature. I should note, that I don't know if that is normal or not.

It will at least be interesting to see if that number changes with Synthetic. Thought the gauge was stuck but when I got off the turnpike into the city going about 40mph it went down to 211 degrees so I know it's working.

Off subject but the Trans temp was in the high 180's to low 190's which I thought was odd just in comparison to my Tahoe and Silverado which normally run high 140's to low 150's. Not the same transmissions to compare I know but I just thought it was high.

 

[Swift101]

I wonder why Hyundai changed the oil capacity on the 2014 models.

I have 2013 2.0T and it calls for just 4.86 quarts of oil.

And the 2013 manual only specs the car for 5W-30 and 5W-40, really strange given it's the same engine.

 

[RichardSenn]

Originally Posted By: Swift101
I wonder why Hyundai changed the oil capacity on the 2014 models.

I have 2013 2.0T and it calls for just 4.86 quarts of oil.

And the 2013 manual only specs the car for 5W-30 and 5W-40, really strange given it's the same engine.

I'm not sure why they changed capacity or gave a wider range of spec oils. I wonder if it's possible they increased it to manage the fuel dilution? Knowing now that my capacity is a about a half quart more meaning it might handle the fuel dilution a little better I think I'll stick to PU 5w30 and 3000-3500 OCI's.

I'm still considering Rotella T6 and even PU 5w40 since Autozone has the PU 5w40 on sale for $35 for 5 quarts and a filter. But, I don't think the PU 5w40 is actually API certified the bottles just say they exceed API SM but don't actually have the API certification stamp like everything else does.

With my OCI's I'm probably way over thinking it. Just hit the 1000 mile mark on the new car I'm anxious to change the oil now but may wait a little longer just in case there are additional additives for break in.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Hyundai is brilliant for constantly evolving the spec, they are still learning some of the finer skills of car making.

If they keep at it like they are doing they may one day make some of the best cars in the world...

 

[Errtt]

DD is 2010 2.4L GDI
Although books just under 5-qts, I dump the whole 5-qts into it so I don't have to have a jug sitting around with so little oil. Why can't they make it an even 5.
Anyway - been using Kendall GT-1 full synthetic (prior two fill), but back to PP because that's what I have in stash. Been 5k OCIs.
Although they seem to promote the use of QS, I haven't tried it yet.
On my last of 5w-20, then back to 5w-30 (stash) next OC. And been using OEM filters.
I wanted to stock some stash of PU but back then when I went to go get it locally, the shelves seem bare except one local store had 2-qts, so I ended up with PP instead. If it was readily available (may be now), I would have been PU all this time. Seems Kendall is rare locally, and PU not as available as most other oils... maybe someone bought a bunch, cleaned the shelves just before I went looking. Although I did notice there was plenty of QS, I opted the PP at the time.