Battery clamps already oxidizing....

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Zinc would work. That is what they use in water heaters as the anode rod. Still even the new pennies have a copper outer coat. Doesn't matter what the core is.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
No acid no oxidizing of the copper unless you live in a polluted area.


You can have the last word, lets see how many guys try this and post their results.
 
Thanks Trav! I'll try it and appreciate the advice. A year ago I replaced the original battery in the 05 Matrix. Now I have a little bit of the blue fizz at the positive post. I watched the guy tighten it and it looked fine. He sprayed terminal protector on it after I asked him. This was an Excide battery at Rural King. I'll be happy if I can get 3 yrs out of it.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Tell you what, just try it and post back.


Here is my OE battery in the Hyundai. Bought the car in 4/2008. I've had the battery out a couple of times but have never cleaned the post.

accent-battery.jpg


Here's a shot of the positive post up close. You can still see the copper. No green stuff here.

pos-battery-post.jpg
 
Just what are you trying to prove with all this? Mine doesn't have any either and its 10 yrs old this sept. My buddy Franks is 13 yrs old and also clean.
For every clean one there are just as many if not more with corrosion on the terminals.

IMO a small amount of post corrosion is more from normal operation than over filling or cracked cases, we can argue about the causes all day but for what it doesn't solve the problem.
The point is as in satinsilvers case most of the corrosion will go to the penny and not the post. I will bet the pennies on it.
 
Prove that if there is any clamp corrosion then there is acid leaking out of the battery. it should be pretty obvious I would think. No acid leak no corrosion.

Batteries are not suppose to leak acid as long as all is OK.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Just what are you trying to prove with all this? Mine doesn't have any either and its 10 yrs old this sept. My buddy Franks is 13 yrs old and also clean.
For every clean one there are just as many if not more with corrosion on the terminals.


Funny you mention my battery. 10/8/13 it celebrated its 13th birthday. Yesterday my van labored to start so I replaced the battery this afternoon. I hope I get the same life out of the replacement. There wasn't a bit of corrosion or anything else for that matter on the terminals. I coat them with dielectric grease and have been doing so for decades. The penny trick works very well too, my brother does it.
 
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Prove that if there is any clamp corrosion then there is acid leaking out of the battery. it should be pretty obvious I would think. No acid leak no corrosion.

Batteries are not suppose to leak acid as long as all is OK.


I have slight corrosion on my 00 Century battery terminals, I didn't coat them with dielectric grease though. Sears installed it and used felt washers where they connect. There are no leaks at all in that battery. I will remove them clean it up and coat with dielectric grease next time I have it here and the weather is good.
 
If there is corrosion on the clamps it is either coming from the pollution in the air as SO2 or there is acid leaking from the battery. Sulphuric acid just does not happen. This is what I was trying to show with my battery clamp and the exposed copper cable that is almost 6 years old and no corrosion.

The fact there is very little corrosion and your batteries are lasting so long should show some correlation. When acid is lost out of a battery and if any water is added the electrolyte is weakened, the specific gravity goes down, the battery life is shorted due to overcharging. The weaker acid changes the resistance, which changes the charging voltage needed. This leads to even more gassing which leads to even more acid loss. The reverse situation where the acid is left to get stronger due to the loss of water will eventually eat up the grid material.

The basis of electrolysis in a battery is the water used to dilute the H2SO4 molecule is split off of the dilute acid solution. The Hydrogen and Oxygen are expelled and the sulfate ion (SO4) stays behind recombining with some of the free H. This causes the specific gravity to rise in the battery. Which is why you add water and not acid. But if the gassing is too vigorous then acid comes out too.

Quote:
What is the electrolysis of dilute sulfuric acid?
In: Acids & Bases [Edit categories]
Answer:
Electrolysis is the breaking up of a compound using electricity. In order for electrolysis to occur the compound must conduct electricity(i.e. have mobile charged particles to carry the charge! here, these are the ions produced when the sulphuric acid dissociates). To electrolyse sulphuric acid, two inert electrodes (e.g. carbon or platinum electrodes) are placed in the solution and connected to a battery cell or main supply of electricity. At the anode oxygen is formed and at the cathode hydrogen. The volume of hydrogen produced, is double the volume of oxygen. It is in fact the electrolysis of water! (ions present: (H)+, (OH)-, from the water, and (H)+, (SO4)2-, from the sulphuric acid. at the cathode, only (H)+ ions go, which turn into hydrogen! at the anode, both anions go, but only (OH)- is discharged, producing oxygen (and water), because the sulphate ion is more stable and so it's more difficult to lose its electrons)

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/What_is_the_electrolysis_of_dilute_sulfuric_acid
 
Do batteries vent in some instances? If so can they corrode the terminals from venting and not be leaking? I can assure you my battery in the Century is not leaking.
 
Non sealed batteries vent. But theoretically what they vent should only be water in molecular H2 and O. It is when the venting is too "robust" for lack of a better word that acid also comes out.

Again if the battery is on charge and all is well then there should be very little bubbling in the cell. The bubbles are H2 and O.
 
I should add that pure sulfuric acid has a specific gravity of 1.830. Water is 1.000

Battery acid is usually around 1.250-1.275. So it is a dilute mixture of about 30-35% acid.
 
All this commotion to prove that the penny doesn't work when it does.
Just what is it you want to hear? The regulator is letting a little too much amperage through it for a short time when charging a partially discharged battery?
This happens a lot in cold weather on short trip stop and start vehicles.

Or every battery case is as tight as yours? Fine maybe they aren't but most people are not throwing batteries out and tearing their charging systems apart to cure a bit of terminal corrosion.

The truth is simple to find out and we will find out shortly, throw a couple of pennies away and find out.
If you want to claim you won the argument that's okay go ahead. Its not worth the pennies I have wasted already. I just want to pass on an old trick, if someone wants to spend a couple of pennies trying it its on them.

Did anyone google this? Answers?
 
Trav....

I and others thank you for all the good advice, help, and suggestions you have given over the years here on BITOG.

Sure there are a few scrooges around here, but most appreciate your posts.

Merry Christmas to you and your family.
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Tip I got from my uncle: after installation, coat the battery terminals in...grease. Yes, ordinary wheel-bearing grease. They'll never corrode.
 
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