I use 5w-20 in both ny Modular V-8's with outstanding results!
5W/10W-30 instead of 5W-20 in Ford 4.6L
- Thread starter JAM25
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I'd just keep using the 5W-20. I use 5W-20 in my F-350, and it's a lot bigger and heavier than your Aviator.
These guys run dino 5W-20 in their modulars. They're not having to replace engines, but they are having to replace odometers because they stop at 999,999.9 miles instead of rolling over to zero when they hit 1 million miles.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1198522-2006-e-250-with-one-million-miles.html
These guys run dino 5W-20 in their modulars. They're not having to replace engines, but they are having to replace odometers because they stop at 999,999.9 miles instead of rolling over to zero when they hit 1 million miles.
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1198522-2006-e-250-with-one-million-miles.html
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: JAM25
Idk why I want to use 10W-30
...that pretty much sums things up.
2013 POST OF THE YEAR.
lol...I second it.
Originally Posted By: Ramblejam
Originally Posted By: JAM25
Idk why I want to use 10W-30
...that pretty much sums things up.
2013 POST OF THE YEAR.
lol...I second it.
Great analysis and conclusion, got to hand it to you there. Yep, forget what the manufacturer says.
Originally Posted By: JAM25
I just think in my mind a 10W will be tbicker and wont thin down. Fuel economy isnt an issue for me tbis truck gets 17Hwy snd 13 city.
Originally Posted By: JAM25
I just think in my mind a 10W will be tbicker and wont thin down. Fuel economy isnt an issue for me tbis truck gets 17Hwy snd 13 city.
but now your oil is too thick!
Imagine the pistons trying to move through the mud that is 10w-30
when what they were expecting was a sleek modern 5w-20.
Like putting army boots onto your marathon runner.
Haha, did I just throw another concern into the OP's head?
Imagine the pistons trying to move through the mud that is 10w-30
when what they were expecting was a sleek modern 5w-20.
Like putting army boots onto your marathon runner.
Haha, did I just throw another concern into the OP's head?
We've used 5w20 & 5w30 in our Crown Vic 4.6 and with 260,000-plus miles,looks like we had no need for a 10w30 at any point and time.
Whats the reason for switching.. i dont see the point. Why is it too thin for a big truck? Has nothing to do with size of engine or anything else. Use what's spec'd and worry about other things.
Yea definately too thin. Just look at all the cop cars and taxis that run 5w20 in severe service and the engines only last 300 - 400,000 miles...
I have had many trucks runners ng heavy loads and never a problem. i have used 5w-20 in my fords since before back spec. 5w-20 will more then do the job.
ken
ken
I ran 5W30 in my mustang for 10 years, with many track visits. Never any issue.
The 20 will be just fine as well. My dad has run that for 8 years in his F-150
The 20 will be just fine as well. My dad has run that for 8 years in his F-150
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I have used 5W20 in my FX4 until today and I use my truck for off-roading, towing up and down mountains, camping, and general use.
The only reason why I am using 5W30 right now is because I got some PU on closeout at autozone for 3.00 a quart and the lowest grade they had was 5W30.
I can not tell the difference. My engine might but it is not enough to "hurt" anything.
The only reason why I am using 5W30 right now is because I got some PU on closeout at autozone for 3.00 a quart and the lowest grade they had was 5W30.
I can not tell the difference. My engine might but it is not enough to "hurt" anything.
Originally Posted By: JAM25
Idk why I want to use 10W-30 but I want feedback.
Have you ever done the bottle shake test in the store? 5W-20 feels like water.
Idk why I want to use 10W-30 but I want feedback.
Have you ever done the bottle shake test in the store? 5W-20 feels like water.
There's absolutely nothing wrong with using a 30wt in that engine. I look at 10w-30 as an obsolete weight in all but the cheapest of oils. My Acura specs a 5w-20 and I've run it on everything from a 0w-20 to a 5w-40 depending on climate and usage. I usually run it on Redline 5w-30 year round now. If running it on a slightly thicker oil stops or slows down oil consumption I say go for it.
Over time oil consumption even if it's not considered severe will contribute to more combustion chamber deposits and shorter converter life.
About the million mile vans, it's impressive but not that impressive. They were in almost continuous use, 600+ miles a day. Far fewer warmup cycles and roughly 6x fewer total engine revolutions in steady state freeway operation compared to one that's used strictly around town at the same mileage. Same goes for the transmission. You're not wearing clutch packs if you're not shifting gears so going down the freeway in top gear with the converter locked for hours at a time results in very, very little wear to the hard parts and no wear to the clutches and bands. It would be like the same vehicle going under 200,000 miles in city use except the engine is more lightly loaded during steady state operation. So it's impressive but not that impressive. In my opinion those vans are not an endorsement for 20wt dino oils and relatively long change intervals, they illustrate the differences between continuous use/all freeway operation vs 2-3 warmup cycles a day with 15 miles of stop and go traffic.
Over time oil consumption even if it's not considered severe will contribute to more combustion chamber deposits and shorter converter life.
About the million mile vans, it's impressive but not that impressive. They were in almost continuous use, 600+ miles a day. Far fewer warmup cycles and roughly 6x fewer total engine revolutions in steady state freeway operation compared to one that's used strictly around town at the same mileage. Same goes for the transmission. You're not wearing clutch packs if you're not shifting gears so going down the freeway in top gear with the converter locked for hours at a time results in very, very little wear to the hard parts and no wear to the clutches and bands. It would be like the same vehicle going under 200,000 miles in city use except the engine is more lightly loaded during steady state operation. So it's impressive but not that impressive. In my opinion those vans are not an endorsement for 20wt dino oils and relatively long change intervals, they illustrate the differences between continuous use/all freeway operation vs 2-3 warmup cycles a day with 15 miles of stop and go traffic.
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Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: JAM25
Idk why I want to use 10W-30 but I want feedback.
Have you ever done the bottle shake test in the store? 5W-20 feels like water.
Is this a new scientific test for oil viscosity? What does 5W-30 feel like when shaken? Thicker water? How about 0W-20; does it feel like thinner water?
Originally Posted By: JAM25
Idk why I want to use 10W-30 but I want feedback.
Have you ever done the bottle shake test in the store? 5W-20 feels like water.
Is this a new scientific test for oil viscosity? What does 5W-30 feel like when shaken? Thicker water? How about 0W-20; does it feel like thinner water?
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: JAM25
Idk why I want to use 10W-30 but I want feedback.
Have you ever done the bottle shake test in the store? 5W-20 feels like water.
Is this a new scientific test for oil viscosity? What does 5W-30 feel like when shaken? Thicker water? How about 0W-20; does it feel like thinner water?
He can not tell the difference if there was not label. If I changed his oil last night to 0W20 he would not know vs 5W30.
But he craves attention.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: JAM25
Idk why I want to use 10W-30 but I want feedback.
Have you ever done the bottle shake test in the store? 5W-20 feels like water.
Is this a new scientific test for oil viscosity? What does 5W-30 feel like when shaken? Thicker water? How about 0W-20; does it feel like thinner water?
He can not tell the difference if there was not label. If I changed his oil last night to 0W20 he would not know vs 5W30.
But he craves attention.
Here in South Florida, I put 255,000 miles on my 4.6L powered F150. Early on, I used the proper recommended grade. My UOA results were fair at best.
I then switched to M1, 10W-30, purchased at Costco. Just the base oil, not extended life. My UOA results improved markedly. Half to 1/3 the wear metals. Gave the truck to my brother, he's been driving it for 4 years in VT. Now just over 300,000 miles! Same oil.
I gave the truck a careful going over prior to driving it to VT. It still had hone marks in the top of each cylinder, compressions were excellent, it used no oil between changes, the cams showed no wear and no seals were leaking.
So, my new truck, a 5.4L 2009, got 5W-20, when new. UOA results were average to above average on M1 5W-20. Guess what the switch to 10W-30 M1 did? Yup, 1/2 the wear metals, and the cam phasers are quieter. Nice!
My conclusion: Here in South Florida, the "slightly" more viscous oil helps wear rates considerably.
Others have had excellent results with other M1 oils, including 0W-20. But, you must remember that many of the 0W oils are a more robust overall package and are not available for "cheap" (with coupon) at the local Costco.
I then switched to M1, 10W-30, purchased at Costco. Just the base oil, not extended life. My UOA results improved markedly. Half to 1/3 the wear metals. Gave the truck to my brother, he's been driving it for 4 years in VT. Now just over 300,000 miles! Same oil.
I gave the truck a careful going over prior to driving it to VT. It still had hone marks in the top of each cylinder, compressions were excellent, it used no oil between changes, the cams showed no wear and no seals were leaking.
So, my new truck, a 5.4L 2009, got 5W-20, when new. UOA results were average to above average on M1 5W-20. Guess what the switch to 10W-30 M1 did? Yup, 1/2 the wear metals, and the cam phasers are quieter. Nice!
My conclusion: Here in South Florida, the "slightly" more viscous oil helps wear rates considerably.
Others have had excellent results with other M1 oils, including 0W-20. But, you must remember that many of the 0W oils are a more robust overall package and are not available for "cheap" (with coupon) at the local Costco.
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Originally Posted By: Cujet
Here in South Florida, I put 255,000 miles on my 4.6L powered F150. Early on, I used the proper recommended grade. My UOA results were fair at best. I then switched to M1, 10W-30, purchased at Costco. Just the base oil, not extended life. My UOA results improved markedly. Half to 1/3 the wear metals.My conclusion: Here in South Florida, the "slightly" more viscous oil helps wear rates considerably.
What were the numbers with 5W-20 versus those with 10W-30? Have any UOAs that you can share? I live the same climate but I am somewhat skeptical I would see my wear metals drop 50-67% by switching to 10W-30. However, seeing my 15K run with 14PPM drop to 5-7PPM would be nice. 0W-20 is $24 at WM, a six pack of M1 at Costco is above $30 at my local store so the price is the same or less at WM. What did you score yours for?
Here in South Florida, I put 255,000 miles on my 4.6L powered F150. Early on, I used the proper recommended grade. My UOA results were fair at best. I then switched to M1, 10W-30, purchased at Costco. Just the base oil, not extended life. My UOA results improved markedly. Half to 1/3 the wear metals.My conclusion: Here in South Florida, the "slightly" more viscous oil helps wear rates considerably.
What were the numbers with 5W-20 versus those with 10W-30? Have any UOAs that you can share? I live the same climate but I am somewhat skeptical I would see my wear metals drop 50-67% by switching to 10W-30. However, seeing my 15K run with 14PPM drop to 5-7PPM would be nice. 0W-20 is $24 at WM, a six pack of M1 at Costco is above $30 at my local store so the price is the same or less at WM. What did you score yours for?
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: JAM25
Idk why I want to use 10W-30 but I want feedback.
Have you ever done the bottle shake test in the store? 5W-20 feels like water.
Is this a new scientific test for oil viscosity? What does 5W-30 feel like when shaken? Thicker water? How about 0W-20; does it feel like thinner water?
He can not tell the difference if there was not label. If I changed his oil last night to 0W20 he would not know vs 5W30.
But he craves attention.
It's doubtful an unsuspecting driver would be able to detect a difference if you swapped the oil out but that's irrelevant. You can't "feel" the engine wearing as you drive down the road yet we know some oils produce less wear than others.
If you're talking about the bottle test, there was always a noticeable difference when pouring the oil in the engine when I used to mix viscosities (of the same brand). I might not be able to name off what weight I'm pouring in by sight but I can sure has heck see the difference in a 5w-20 vs a 5w-30 vs a 5w-40 when pouring it in.
I don't see what the big deal is. The starting and hot viscosity is going to be similar between a 20wt in winter and a 40wt in a hot summer. Same goes for expected usage. Some might run 170 degree oil temps and some might run 250 degree temps. There seems to be a huge push it seems for the one size fits all oil. Why would a 20wt be ok for 170 degree oil temps but a 40wt is considered too thick even for trucks that might push oil temps into the 250 degree range? Guess which one is thinner, the 20wt at 170F or the 40w at 250F.
Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: JAM25
Idk why I want to use 10W-30 but I want feedback.
Have you ever done the bottle shake test in the store? 5W-20 feels like water.
Is this a new scientific test for oil viscosity? What does 5W-30 feel like when shaken? Thicker water? How about 0W-20; does it feel like thinner water?
He can not tell the difference if there was not label. If I changed his oil last night to 0W20 he would not know vs 5W30.
But he craves attention.
It's doubtful an unsuspecting driver would be able to detect a difference if you swapped the oil out but that's irrelevant. You can't "feel" the engine wearing as you drive down the road yet we know some oils produce less wear than others.
If you're talking about the bottle test, there was always a noticeable difference when pouring the oil in the engine when I used to mix viscosities (of the same brand). I might not be able to name off what weight I'm pouring in by sight but I can sure has heck see the difference in a 5w-20 vs a 5w-30 vs a 5w-40 when pouring it in.
I don't see what the big deal is. The starting and hot viscosity is going to be similar between a 20wt in winter and a 40wt in a hot summer. Same goes for expected usage. Some might run 170 degree oil temps and some might run 250 degree temps. There seems to be a huge push it seems for the one size fits all oil. Why would a 20wt be ok for 170 degree oil temps but a 40wt is considered too thick even for trucks that might push oil temps into the 250 degree range? Guess which one is thinner, the 20wt at 170F or the 40w at 250F.
Originally Posted By: AcuraTL
yet we know some oils produce less wear than others.
The only time that is true if "A" oil meets different specs than "B" oil.
yet we know some oils produce less wear than others.
The only time that is true if "A" oil meets different specs than "B" oil.
Originally Posted By: dave1251
Originally Posted By: AcuraTL
yet we know some oils produce less wear than others.
The only time that is true if "A" oil meets different specs than "B" oil.
Lol. So you're saying that every oil under one spec produces the exact same amount of wear? Not buying it. Obviously different oils are....well....different.....and they perform differently.
I'm still amazed we have a whole site that bases an oils worth on wear metals from a $20 UOA. The wear metals potion of the test is so flawed for anything other than trending using the same oil many times before swapping that I ignore it. It can't see the larger particles which many say are the result of accelerated wear and of more importance. It picks up just a portion of the wear metals in the oil where oxidation will show up as wear. I wonder how many oils with better than average cleaning ability have been condemned by this test.
In my opinion only a particle count is a valid form of analyzing wear metals especially if you're using a different oil every OCI. Otherwise you need to get some tear downs under your belt before making claims that every oil meeting a certain spec will produce the same wear results.
Originally Posted By: AcuraTL
yet we know some oils produce less wear than others.
The only time that is true if "A" oil meets different specs than "B" oil.
Lol. So you're saying that every oil under one spec produces the exact same amount of wear? Not buying it. Obviously different oils are....well....different.....and they perform differently.
I'm still amazed we have a whole site that bases an oils worth on wear metals from a $20 UOA. The wear metals potion of the test is so flawed for anything other than trending using the same oil many times before swapping that I ignore it. It can't see the larger particles which many say are the result of accelerated wear and of more importance. It picks up just a portion of the wear metals in the oil where oxidation will show up as wear. I wonder how many oils with better than average cleaning ability have been condemned by this test.
In my opinion only a particle count is a valid form of analyzing wear metals especially if you're using a different oil every OCI. Otherwise you need to get some tear downs under your belt before making claims that every oil meeting a certain spec will produce the same wear results.
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