Recent Topics
External debris into engine during maintenance
by Spetz
09/20/14 04:06 AM
Rotella T6 vs Mobil 1 0w40
by rw19
09/20/14 12:28 AM
All-Steel, Non-1911, Single-Action 9mm
by john_pifer
09/20/14 12:21 AM
Why Clear+Bright Oil Samples are Not Good Enough
by Apollo14
09/20/14 12:15 AM
ExxonMobil ceases drilling operations in Russia
by OVERKILL
09/19/14 11:53 PM
White House intruder makes it into building
by dave1251
09/19/14 11:26 PM
Meguiar's Car Wash Shampoo @ COSTCO $5
by Deere John
09/19/14 11:14 PM
Idemitsu 0w20 - Unique high density, good or bad?
by HKPolice
09/19/14 10:59 PM
Baltimore's finest
by stockrex
09/19/14 10:31 PM
SL-rated Subaru
by Concours14
09/19/14 09:54 PM
Oil and Filter Question?
by mavric240
09/19/14 09:53 PM
Nvidia sinks moon landing hoax using virtual light
by buster
09/19/14 09:31 PM
Newest Members
Talkinghorse1, kerrangsta, mavric240, LABanker, gpguy
51350 Registered Users
Who's Online
19 registered (dec219644, Char Baby, bourne, Clevy, coach477, kb27), 509 Guests and 244 Spiders online.
Key: Admin, Global Mod, Mod
Forum Stats
51350 Members
64 Forums
219509 Topics
3464564 Posts

Max Online: 2862 @ 07/07/14 03:10 PM
Donate to BITOG

Page 1 of 2 1 2 >
Topic Options
#3201558 - 11/29/13 08:14 PM Caliper bolts
supton Offline


Registered: 11/09/08
Posts: 4640
Loc: NH
Finally removed my rear calipers so as to make sure everything was sliding properly. The pads were, but they got greased anyhow; two of the sliders were dry though.

But, I found the bolts just a bit hard to remove... The manual that I downloaded indicated 65ft-lb is what these bolts should be tightened to. Three of them required hitting the 17mm wrench with the jack handle. The fourth refused, and required the big hammer.

I put some of the brake lube onto the threads of the offending bolt, and spaced out on doing anything other than "good n tight" (which is probably not far from the required level).

1. Good/bad? Maybe I should remove and use real anti-sieze on the threads?
2. Why on earth do I have to hammer them off? They were installed about 7 months ago by the dealership.

I recall having to hammer the bolts off an Isuzu just like this; maybe import trucks require hammers for this job?

I glanced at the fronts but decided those looked more complicated than anything I've seen thus far.
_________________________
2004 VW Jetta Wagon, TDI, 5spd manual, 299kmile, his
2011 Toyota Camry, base, 6spd manual, 78k, hers
2010 Toyota Tundra double cab, 4.6L, auto, 88k

Top
#3201569 - 11/29/13 08:24 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
propuckstopper Offline


Registered: 03/05/08
Posts: 53
Loc: MB, Canada
My question would be:

If the dealer just serviced these calipers seven months ago, why were the sliders dry? Sounds very premature to me...

As for the bolts being too tight, you will find many a gorilla in many a mechanical shop. These days, torque wrenches seem a thing of the past. Personally, I don't do any mechanical work without one. It is a very valuable investment.
_________________________
1965 Pontiac GTO Tri-Power 4-Speed Hardtop (Montero Red)
1968 Pontiac GTO Covertible 400 H.O./Auto (Solar Red)
2000 Lexus ES300
2003 Honda Element AWD

Top
#3201574 - 11/29/13 08:27 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
supton Offline


Registered: 11/09/08
Posts: 4640
Loc: NH
I'm guessing they didn't bother with grease. Could be wrong. But both lower bolts were about in the same shape, while the upper bolts had grease. Beats me. I should go read up on how to R&R the fronts, they looked different enough that I didn't want to mess with them just yet.
_________________________
2004 VW Jetta Wagon, TDI, 5spd manual, 299kmile, his
2011 Toyota Camry, base, 6spd manual, 78k, hers
2010 Toyota Tundra double cab, 4.6L, auto, 88k

Top
#3201582 - 11/29/13 08:37 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
eljefino Offline


Registered: 06/15/03
Posts: 23914
Loc: ME
Is there a way that if you remove just one caliper pin you can flip the caliper out of the way to do pads? If it saves a minute, a flat rate tech will do it. Maybe this is why only one pin got grease.

Top
#3201584 - 11/29/13 08:38 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
supton Offline


Registered: 11/09/08
Posts: 4640
Loc: NH
Ooh, didn't think of that. Very possible. Lots of room around the wheelwell of a truck.
_________________________
2004 VW Jetta Wagon, TDI, 5spd manual, 299kmile, his
2011 Toyota Camry, base, 6spd manual, 78k, hers
2010 Toyota Tundra double cab, 4.6L, auto, 88k

Top
#3201679 - 11/29/13 10:14 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
Donald Offline


Registered: 03/21/04
Posts: 13454
Loc: Upstate NY
Originally Posted By: supton
Finally removed my rear calipers so as to make sure everything was sliding properly. The pads were, but they got greased anyhow; two of the sliders were dry though.

But, I found the bolts just a bit hard to remove... The manual that I downloaded indicated 65ft-lb is what these bolts should be tightened to. Three of them required hitting the 17mm wrench with the jack handle. The fourth refused, and required the big hammer.

I put some of the brake lube onto the threads of the offending bolt, and spaced out on doing anything other than "good n tight" (which is probably not far from the required level).

1. Good/bad? Maybe I should remove and use real anti-sieze on the threads?
2. Why on earth do I have to hammer them off? They were installed about 7 months ago by the dealership.

I recall having to hammer the bolts off an Isuzu just like this; maybe import trucks require hammers for this job?

I glanced at the fronts but decided those looked more complicated than anything I've seen thus far.


So the bolts could have been overtightened or rusted a bit. But the calipers pins should still be well lubricated after only 7 months.
_________________________
2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo 4.0 - PP & M1
1999 Dodge Ram 2500 w/Cummins - Rotella T6 & M1
Amsoil ATF in both vehicles & Magnefine filter.

Top
#3201796 - 11/30/13 05:34 AM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
SHOZ Offline


Registered: 06/28/03
Posts: 1716
Loc: Illinois
Maybe they used loctite on them?

Top
#3201829 - 11/30/13 06:45 AM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
skulldrinker Offline


Registered: 12/14/11
Posts: 21
Loc: Bolingbrook, IL
No one uses a torque wrench at our place on stuff like that, they all 'know' their guns.

Top
#3202116 - 11/30/13 01:02 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: skulldrinker]
Smoky14 Offline


Registered: 04/23/03
Posts: 975
Loc: Nowhere NM
Originally Posted By: skulldrinker
No one uses a torque wrench at our place on stuff like that, they all 'know' their guns.


Thanks for the warning!!
_________________________
99 Acura 2.3CL 5speed MT
12 Ford Fusion 2.5S 6speed MT

Top
#3202126 - 11/30/13 01:16 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
SHOZ Offline


Registered: 06/28/03
Posts: 1716
Loc: Illinois
Who would use a "gun" on the slider pins?

Top
#3202232 - 11/30/13 03:38 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: SHOZ]
skulldrinker Offline


Registered: 12/14/11
Posts: 21
Loc: Bolingbrook, IL
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Who would use a "gun" on the slider pins?


Sorry I used the term gun too loosely, maybe not giant 1/2" but smaller 3/8ths and/or air ratchets.

Top
#3202237 - 11/30/13 03:50 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
SHOZ Offline


Registered: 06/28/03
Posts: 1716
Loc: Illinois
The caliper brackets are usually loctited on and hard to remove. I just took my calipers off the front of my 2008 Hyundai Accent at 95k miles they were really on good.

But the slider pins were still good and loose, easy compressed and returned. I never bothered to break the seal on the rubber booties. Put the pads back in too as there was so little wear.

I'm pretty easy on brakes. smile

Top
#3202362 - 11/30/13 06:20 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
EricF Offline


Registered: 07/14/09
Posts: 1569
Loc: SF Bay Area
You'd be very surprised to see how many shops don't know to correclty install brakes. A lot of them don't even clean anything with brakekleen. Most don't lube anything. they simply pad slap and put the car back out. Is it lazyness or lack of training? I can't tell anymore.

I got into a debate with a Wyotech student about why prestone was NOT universal and would NOT work in any car. His instructor said there's only 1 antifreeze that's ever needed. Prestone.
I'm sure Honeywell made a hefty contribution to the program somewhere. I even showed the coolant confusion article and told the kid to have the instructor call me. That never happened.
But yeah, things shops do don't surprise me at all.
_________________________
1993 Ford Ranger XLT 4.0L 4x4 (240k) 5W-30 Synpower
2006 Saturn Relay-3 3.5L (85k) 5W-30 Synpower
2012 Ford Fusion SE 2.5L (39k) 5W20 M/C Semi Syn

Top
#3202543 - 11/30/13 11:30 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: EricF]
The_Eric Offline


Registered: 03/31/10
Posts: 3270
Loc: Iowa
Originally Posted By: EricF
You'd be very surprised to see how many shops don't know to correclty install brakes. A lot of them don't even clean anything with brakekleen. Most don't lube anything. they simply pad slap and put the car back out. Is it lazyness or lack of training? I can't tell anymore.

I got into a debate with a Wyotech student about why prestone was NOT universal and would NOT work in any car. His instructor said there's only 1 antifreeze that's ever needed. Prestone.
I'm sure Honeywell made a hefty contribution to the program somewhere. I even showed the coolant confusion article and told the kid to have the instructor call me. That never happened.
But yeah, things shops do don't surprise me at all.


Just look at the "education" that a member here received on batteries from his school. Even when there were more knowledgeable members (including those who work with them)tried to tell him otherwise, he more or less refused it, stating that his instructor knew better.

Goes to show you that school isn't the end all, be all of knowledge.
_________________________
2001 Hyundai Elantra 2.0
1998 Chevy Malibu 2.4
1995 Pontiac Grand Am 3.1
1979 Ford F-150 351M

Top
#3203286 - 12/01/13 07:59 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
AMC Offline


Registered: 10/17/10
Posts: 374
Loc: South Eastern, CT
Caliper brackets are usually loctited and torqued down hard for liability reasons. Could you imagine what would happen if a caliper bracket came loose due to heat and vibration during a hard stop? The service department does not like to take chances with that type of thing and if they can't get the bolts out the next time you bring the car in, they will just cut them off and charge you extra for it, saying the bolts were seized in place from rust or not being serviced frequently enough.

That being said, I like to apply a little anti-seize compound to the caliper bracket bolt threads and then torque them down tight. The combination of the solid particles in the anti-seize and torquing the bolts tight will secure the bolts in for safety yet it will make them easy to remove the next time you have to.

As far as the slides being dry, it sounds like they did a poor job of lubing the pins last time. Pretty typical of a stealership service department......
_________________________
2011 Chevy Silverado - Edge 5w-30
2010 Ford Focus - WH 5w-20
2008 Kawasaki KLR 650 - T3 15w-40

Top
Page 1 of 2 1 2 >