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#3201558 - 11/29/13 08:14 PM Caliper bolts
supton Offline


Registered: 11/09/08
Posts: 8308
Loc: NH
Finally removed my rear calipers so as to make sure everything was sliding properly. The pads were, but they got greased anyhow; two of the sliders were dry though.

But, I found the bolts just a bit hard to remove... The manual that I downloaded indicated 65ft-lb is what these bolts should be tightened to. Three of them required hitting the 17mm wrench with the jack handle. The fourth refused, and required the big hammer.

I put some of the brake lube onto the threads of the offending bolt, and spaced out on doing anything other than "good n tight" (which is probably not far from the required level).

1. Good/bad? Maybe I should remove and use real anti-sieze on the threads?
2. Why on earth do I have to hammer them off? They were installed about 7 months ago by the dealership.

I recall having to hammer the bolts off an Isuzu just like this; maybe import trucks require hammers for this job?

I glanced at the fronts but decided those looked more complicated than anything I've seen thus far.
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2011 Toyota Camry, base, 6spd manual, 114k, hers
2010 Toyota Tundra double cab, 4.6L, auto, 124k, his

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#3201569 - 11/29/13 08:24 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
propuckstopper Offline


Registered: 03/05/08
Posts: 57
Loc: MB, Canada
My question would be:

If the dealer just serviced these calipers seven months ago, why were the sliders dry? Sounds very premature to me...

As for the bolts being too tight, you will find many a gorilla in many a mechanical shop. These days, torque wrenches seem a thing of the past. Personally, I don't do any mechanical work without one. It is a very valuable investment.
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#3201574 - 11/29/13 08:27 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
supton Offline


Registered: 11/09/08
Posts: 8308
Loc: NH
I'm guessing they didn't bother with grease. Could be wrong. But both lower bolts were about in the same shape, while the upper bolts had grease. Beats me. I should go read up on how to R&R the fronts, they looked different enough that I didn't want to mess with them just yet.
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2011 Toyota Camry, base, 6spd manual, 114k, hers
2010 Toyota Tundra double cab, 4.6L, auto, 124k, his

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#3201582 - 11/29/13 08:37 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
eljefino Offline


Registered: 06/15/03
Posts: 29166
Loc: ME
Is there a way that if you remove just one caliper pin you can flip the caliper out of the way to do pads? If it saves a minute, a flat rate tech will do it. Maybe this is why only one pin got grease.

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#3201584 - 11/29/13 08:38 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
supton Offline


Registered: 11/09/08
Posts: 8308
Loc: NH
Ooh, didn't think of that. Very possible. Lots of room around the wheelwell of a truck.
_________________________
2011 Toyota Camry, base, 6spd manual, 114k, hers
2010 Toyota Tundra double cab, 4.6L, auto, 124k, his

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#3201679 - 11/29/13 10:14 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
Donald Offline


Registered: 03/21/04
Posts: 16793
Loc: Upstate NY
Originally Posted By: supton
Finally removed my rear calipers so as to make sure everything was sliding properly. The pads were, but they got greased anyhow; two of the sliders were dry though.

But, I found the bolts just a bit hard to remove... The manual that I downloaded indicated 65ft-lb is what these bolts should be tightened to. Three of them required hitting the 17mm wrench with the jack handle. The fourth refused, and required the big hammer.

I put some of the brake lube onto the threads of the offending bolt, and spaced out on doing anything other than "good n tight" (which is probably not far from the required level).

1. Good/bad? Maybe I should remove and use real anti-sieze on the threads?
2. Why on earth do I have to hammer them off? They were installed about 7 months ago by the dealership.

I recall having to hammer the bolts off an Isuzu just like this; maybe import trucks require hammers for this job?

I glanced at the fronts but decided those looked more complicated than anything I've seen thus far.


So the bolts could have been overtightened or rusted a bit. But the calipers pins should still be well lubricated after only 7 months.
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#3201796 - 11/30/13 05:34 AM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
SHOZ Offline


Registered: 06/28/03
Posts: 3301
Loc: Illinois
Maybe they used loctite on them?
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2008 Hyundai Accent 1.6L 5 sp manual hatchback
2010 Hyundai Genesis Coupe Track 2L Turbo 6sp manual

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#3201829 - 11/30/13 06:45 AM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
skulldrinker Offline


Registered: 12/14/11
Posts: 41
Loc: Bolingbrook, IL
No one uses a torque wrench at our place on stuff like that, they all 'know' their guns.

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#3202116 - 11/30/13 01:02 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: skulldrinker]
Smoky14 Offline


Registered: 04/23/03
Posts: 1153
Loc: Nowhere NM
Originally Posted By: skulldrinker
No one uses a torque wrench at our place on stuff like that, they all 'know' their guns.


Thanks for the warning!!
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#3202126 - 11/30/13 01:16 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
SHOZ Offline


Registered: 06/28/03
Posts: 3301
Loc: Illinois
Who would use a "gun" on the slider pins?
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#3202232 - 11/30/13 03:38 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: SHOZ]
skulldrinker Offline


Registered: 12/14/11
Posts: 41
Loc: Bolingbrook, IL
Originally Posted By: SHOZ
Who would use a "gun" on the slider pins?


Sorry I used the term gun too loosely, maybe not giant 1/2" but smaller 3/8ths and/or air ratchets.

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#3202237 - 11/30/13 03:50 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
SHOZ Offline


Registered: 06/28/03
Posts: 3301
Loc: Illinois
The caliper brackets are usually loctited on and hard to remove. I just took my calipers off the front of my 2008 Hyundai Accent at 95k miles they were really on good.

But the slider pins were still good and loose, easy compressed and returned. I never bothered to break the seal on the rubber booties. Put the pads back in too as there was so little wear.

I'm pretty easy on brakes. smile
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#3202362 - 11/30/13 06:20 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
EricF Offline


Registered: 07/14/09
Posts: 1640
Loc: SF Bay Area
You'd be very surprised to see how many shops don't know to correclty install brakes. A lot of them don't even clean anything with brakekleen. Most don't lube anything. they simply pad slap and put the car back out. Is it lazyness or lack of training? I can't tell anymore.

I got into a debate with a Wyotech student about why prestone was NOT universal and would NOT work in any car. His instructor said there's only 1 antifreeze that's ever needed. Prestone.
I'm sure Honeywell made a hefty contribution to the program somewhere. I even showed the coolant confusion article and told the kid to have the instructor call me. That never happened.
But yeah, things shops do don't surprise me at all.
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#3202543 - 11/30/13 11:30 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: EricF]
The_Eric Offline


Registered: 03/31/10
Posts: 4695
Loc: Iowa
Originally Posted By: EricF
You'd be very surprised to see how many shops don't know to correclty install brakes. A lot of them don't even clean anything with brakekleen. Most don't lube anything. they simply pad slap and put the car back out. Is it lazyness or lack of training? I can't tell anymore.

I got into a debate with a Wyotech student about why prestone was NOT universal and would NOT work in any car. His instructor said there's only 1 antifreeze that's ever needed. Prestone.
I'm sure Honeywell made a hefty contribution to the program somewhere. I even showed the coolant confusion article and told the kid to have the instructor call me. That never happened.
But yeah, things shops do don't surprise me at all.


Just look at the "education" that a member here received on batteries from his school. Even when there were more knowledgeable members (including those who work with them)tried to tell him otherwise, he more or less refused it, stating that his instructor knew better.

Goes to show you that school isn't the end all, be all of knowledge.
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#3203286 - 12/01/13 07:59 PM Re: Caliper bolts [Re: supton]
AMC Offline


Registered: 10/17/10
Posts: 492
Loc: South Eastern, CT
Caliper brackets are usually loctited and torqued down hard for liability reasons. Could you imagine what would happen if a caliper bracket came loose due to heat and vibration during a hard stop? The service department does not like to take chances with that type of thing and if they can't get the bolts out the next time you bring the car in, they will just cut them off and charge you extra for it, saying the bolts were seized in place from rust or not being serviced frequently enough.

That being said, I like to apply a little anti-seize compound to the caliper bracket bolt threads and then torque them down tight. The combination of the solid particles in the anti-seize and torquing the bolts tight will secure the bolts in for safety yet it will make them easy to remove the next time you have to.

As far as the slides being dry, it sounds like they did a poor job of lubing the pins last time. Pretty typical of a stealership service department......
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