JHZR2
Staff member
The problem is that rust had already started. Once it's there, cutting and welding is the only option. Rustproofing is PM. Not sure how much it would/could slow once it starts.
Best Way To Rust-Proof?
- Thread starter Phishin
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
Thanks everyone for the discussion. JHZR2, you put some of my fears to sleep, maybe.
I had my car Krowned in Windsor yesterday. The shop personnel seemed friendly and attentive. The applicator guy actually spoke to me prior to the process and explained all the details he goes through. They instilled confidence.
However, there was one problem I am annoyed about. He had some kind of difficulty drilling about 6 of the rocker panel access holes and the plastic plugs he installed fit rather loose. I brought this to their attention and they replaced the plugs with over-sized ones (only the "nipple" was over sized). Problem solved, but it did invoke the buyer's remorse feeling for a few moments. I'm plenty old enough to accept that problems occur sometimes, but this was certainly a lapse in quality control. The vehicle appears to be well covered in my inspection.
I asked the manager about the thinness of their T-40 product and his story was that after a few months and the underside appears dry, there is still a film present doing it's job.
Still not sure about the cost/value of this service. I only keep one car (daily driver) and at 10 years +/-, I try to determine when to sell them to get best price vs. the cost of upcoming major maintenance, further depreciation, etc.. This is MY experience for MY conditions.
It kind of seems like rust proofing is similar to extended warranties. It may or may not pan out. We simply cannot predict the future.
And, from my observation of many vehicles in mid-Michigan, it seems that corrosion control across product lines is not consistent.
That 13% Ontario sales tax is a killer.
You will want to get it done again in a year. I make it a point to get the product "built up" on the vehicle. This has worked well for me in our Canadian winters.
Thanks everyone for the discussion. JHZR2, you put some of my fears to sleep, maybe.
I had my car Krowned in Windsor yesterday. The shop personnel seemed friendly and attentive. The applicator guy actually spoke to me prior to the process and explained all the details he goes through. They instilled confidence.
However, there was one problem I am annoyed about. He had some kind of difficulty drilling about 6 of the rocker panel access holes and the plastic plugs he installed fit rather loose. I brought this to their attention and they replaced the plugs with over-sized ones (only the "nipple" was over sized). Problem solved, but it did invoke the buyer's remorse feeling for a few moments. I'm plenty old enough to accept that problems occur sometimes, but this was certainly a lapse in quality control. The vehicle appears to be well covered in my inspection.
I asked the manager about the thinness of their T-40 product and his story was that after a few months and the underside appears dry, there is still a film present doing it's job.
Still not sure about the cost/value of this service. I only keep one car (daily driver) and at 10 years +/-, I try to determine when to sell them to get best price vs. the cost of upcoming major maintenance, further depreciation, etc.. This is MY experience for MY conditions.
It kind of seems like rust proofing is similar to extended warranties. It may or may not pan out. We simply cannot predict the future.
And, from my observation of many vehicles in mid-Michigan, it seems that corrosion control across product lines is not consistent.
That 13% Ontario sales tax is a killer.
You will want to get it done again in a year. I make it a point to get the product "built up" on the vehicle. This has worked well for me in our Canadian winters.
Well guys I as promised, I am back from rust proofing the 02 Jeep Weangler with Amsoil HDMP. I did a pad and rotor job on it and them sprayed everything down. The application was slow and the amsoil cans did not spray a very good pattern so I ended up using the straw for the whole job. The amsoil came out as a fairly thin sticky yellow liquid in a round pattern. The job took me about 90 minutes and I used 3.5 cans. There were some drips here and there but for the most part I was able to get a pretty even coat.
I took the vehicle for a short ride around the block to seat the new brakes and let some of the drips blow off. After that, I let the jeep sit for about 8 hours and inspected the undercarriage before the sun went down. The Amsoil coat looks very nice! It has dried to a nice smooth glossy film and I will let it dry for another 24 hours before I start driving it.
So on Amsoil HDMP as an undercoat, so far so good! It is reasonably priced, goes on pretty easy and makes the undercarriage look nice when it dries. It was a little stickier than I had hoped and I really wish it came in bulk liquid form so I could spray it with my paint sprayer. Obviously, it is too soon to comment on durability but all indiciations point upwards. As A DIY rust proof, this seems like one of the better options. You dont need a compressor, paint sprayer or any power tools, it is reasonbly priced and easy to use. Pics to follow
I took the vehicle for a short ride around the block to seat the new brakes and let some of the drips blow off. After that, I let the jeep sit for about 8 hours and inspected the undercarriage before the sun went down. The Amsoil coat looks very nice! It has dried to a nice smooth glossy film and I will let it dry for another 24 hours before I start driving it.
So on Amsoil HDMP as an undercoat, so far so good! It is reasonably priced, goes on pretty easy and makes the undercarriage look nice when it dries. It was a little stickier than I had hoped and I really wish it came in bulk liquid form so I could spray it with my paint sprayer. Obviously, it is too soon to comment on durability but all indiciations point upwards. As A DIY rust proof, this seems like one of the better options. You dont need a compressor, paint sprayer or any power tools, it is reasonbly priced and easy to use. Pics to follow
Ok here are the sample pics I took of my vehicles undercoating. First up is fluid film, this is on my 2002 pontiac sunfire. The car is very rust free for its age and location. You can see the fluid film as a smudgy gloss film. It is mostly intact on the undercarriage but it has completely rinsed away in the wheel wells.
here is a shot of my trailer hitch on the pontiac. Notice the smudgy gloss of fluid film.
Here is a shot of the rear passenger wheel well. The filler neck and wheel well have not even the slightest film left on them.
Next is the Amsoil HDMP. Notice the nice gloss! This jeep is in rough shape with lot of rust but looking at these pics, you would think the thing was painted with a satin black paint, it wasnt! It is only the amosoil's thin but tough coating. If you look closely at the top left of the pic, you can also see what the drips look like if you over apply the amsoil.
Finally we have the CorrosionX HD. It goes on as a really thick greasy coating that dries to a very firm, heavy film that does not budge! I really cant imagine this stuff washing away any time soon. It does collect a little dust but bigger particulate rinses off of it just by driving through rain. It isn't the nicest thing to look at but it really hangs on tough. Also keep in mind that this is the rear wheel well, a very high wash area and it was applied almost 2 months ago and driven everyday since, wow!
here is a shot of my trailer hitch on the pontiac. Notice the smudgy gloss of fluid film.
Here is a shot of the rear passenger wheel well. The filler neck and wheel well have not even the slightest film left on them.
Next is the Amsoil HDMP. Notice the nice gloss! This jeep is in rough shape with lot of rust but looking at these pics, you would think the thing was painted with a satin black paint, it wasnt! It is only the amosoil's thin but tough coating. If you look closely at the top left of the pic, you can also see what the drips look like if you over apply the amsoil.
Finally we have the CorrosionX HD. It goes on as a really thick greasy coating that dries to a very firm, heavy film that does not budge! I really cant imagine this stuff washing away any time soon. It does collect a little dust but bigger particulate rinses off of it just by driving through rain. It isn't the nicest thing to look at but it really hangs on tough. Also keep in mind that this is the rear wheel well, a very high wash area and it was applied almost 2 months ago and driven everyday since, wow!
This is a great thread, I'm glad I found it. I've been on a mission to defeat undercarriage rust for many years. I've tried them all and I have become fairly educated in the products. Below is my opinion.
a) Carwell, Krown, oil, etc. all will do the job to a certain extent. If you shield a metal surface with anything, it will prevent corrosion for a certain time. The problem I had with most of the products, is that they are almost all "solvent based", and that makes them very thin and waterlike, and very drippy. Now when the solvent (alcohol, mineral spirits, etc) evaporates you are left with a semi-dry wax-like coating. And that's fine. It will protect any area's that it has reached before it dried. It's done migrating into other areas. Also if it gets scraped off by something in the road or during repair, it will leave a bare unprotected spot.
b) I have had the best results with Fluid Film. It is very thick, like a heavy paint, and will not drip. It never dries, so it is always active and migrating into inaccessable areas. If something scrapes it, it is self-healing because it is wet. It gels back over itself. It is thick enough to get you through the season without washing off. You do have to do the wheelwells with the heavy Fluid Film Grease. It takes me another 10 minutes to do all the wheel areas with the grease.
If you are going to do it yourself, just buy the complete kit with the Fluid Film gun. A small compressor is all you need. Mine shoots great at 80 psi with a cheapo pancake compressor from Walmart. Make sure that you get the "real" gun from Fluid Film and not a regular undercoat gun. They have modified it to apply Fluid Film which is really thick. I found a substantial difference.
In Canada I get it here
http://www.undercoatmycar.ca/
I order the thick grease from the states here: Fluid Film Kits
a) Carwell, Krown, oil, etc. all will do the job to a certain extent. If you shield a metal surface with anything, it will prevent corrosion for a certain time. The problem I had with most of the products, is that they are almost all "solvent based", and that makes them very thin and waterlike, and very drippy. Now when the solvent (alcohol, mineral spirits, etc) evaporates you are left with a semi-dry wax-like coating. And that's fine. It will protect any area's that it has reached before it dried. It's done migrating into other areas. Also if it gets scraped off by something in the road or during repair, it will leave a bare unprotected spot.
b) I have had the best results with Fluid Film. It is very thick, like a heavy paint, and will not drip. It never dries, so it is always active and migrating into inaccessable areas. If something scrapes it, it is self-healing because it is wet. It gels back over itself. It is thick enough to get you through the season without washing off. You do have to do the wheelwells with the heavy Fluid Film Grease. It takes me another 10 minutes to do all the wheel areas with the grease.
If you are going to do it yourself, just buy the complete kit with the Fluid Film gun. A small compressor is all you need. Mine shoots great at 80 psi with a cheapo pancake compressor from Walmart. Make sure that you get the "real" gun from Fluid Film and not a regular undercoat gun. They have modified it to apply Fluid Film which is really thick. I found a substantial difference.
In Canada I get it here
http://www.undercoatmycar.ca/
I order the thick grease from the states here: Fluid Film Kits
Last edited:
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: OnTheFarm
This is a great thread, I'm glad I found it. I've been on a mission to defeat undercarriage rust for many years. I've tried them all and I have become fairly educated in the products. Below is my opinion.
a) Carwell, Krown, oil, etc. all will do the job to a certain extent. If you shield a metal surface with anything, it will prevent corrosion for a certain time. The problem I had with most of the products, is that they are almost all "solvent based", and that makes them very thin and waterlike, and very drippy. Now when the solvent (alcohol, mineral spirits, etc) evaporates you are left with a semi-dry wax-like coating. And that's fine. It will protect any area's that it has reached before it dried. It's done migrating into other areas. Also if it gets scraped off by something in the road or during repair, it will leave a bare unprotected spot.
Krown and Rust Check both don't dry. They are thin oil. My Lincoln was last done like 4 years ago and the Krown that's on it is still a liquid and STILL creeps out between the trim pieces.
It is also still wet on the frame rails on our Expedition.
I only have two complaints with Krown:
1. On vehicles with pre-existing corrosion, it appears to wick/soak into the corrosion making reapplication in those areas necessary after a bit.
2. The dripping/creeping can get annoying when it is burning off your exhaust or on your driveway.
This is a great thread, I'm glad I found it. I've been on a mission to defeat undercarriage rust for many years. I've tried them all and I have become fairly educated in the products. Below is my opinion.
a) Carwell, Krown, oil, etc. all will do the job to a certain extent. If you shield a metal surface with anything, it will prevent corrosion for a certain time. The problem I had with most of the products, is that they are almost all "solvent based", and that makes them very thin and waterlike, and very drippy. Now when the solvent (alcohol, mineral spirits, etc) evaporates you are left with a semi-dry wax-like coating. And that's fine. It will protect any area's that it has reached before it dried. It's done migrating into other areas. Also if it gets scraped off by something in the road or during repair, it will leave a bare unprotected spot.
Krown and Rust Check both don't dry. They are thin oil. My Lincoln was last done like 4 years ago and the Krown that's on it is still a liquid and STILL creeps out between the trim pieces.
It is also still wet on the frame rails on our Expedition.
I only have two complaints with Krown:
1. On vehicles with pre-existing corrosion, it appears to wick/soak into the corrosion making reapplication in those areas necessary after a bit.
2. The dripping/creeping can get annoying when it is burning off your exhaust or on your driveway.
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: OnTheFarm
This is a great thread, I'm glad I found it. I've been on a mission to defeat undercarriage rust for many years. I've tried them all and I have become fairly educated in the products. Below is my opinion.
a) Carwell, Krown, oil, etc. all will do the job to a certain extent. If you shield a metal surface with anything, it will prevent corrosion for a certain time. The problem I had with most of the products, is that they are almost all "solvent based", and that makes them very thin and waterlike, and very drippy. Now when the solvent (alcohol, mineral spirits, etc) evaporates you are left with a semi-dry wax-like coating. And that's fine. It will protect any area's that it has reached before it dried. It's done migrating into other areas. Also if it gets scraped off by something in the road or during repair, it will leave a bare unprotected spot.
Krown and Rust Check both don't dry. They are thin oil. My Lincoln was last done like 4 years ago and the Krown that's on it is still a liquid and STILL creeps out between the trim pieces.
It is also still wet on the frame rails on our Expedition.
I only have two complaints with Krown:
1. On vehicles with pre-existing corrosion, it appears to wick/soak into the corrosion making reapplication in those areas necessary after a bit.
2. The dripping/creeping can get annoying when it is burning off your exhaust or on your driveway.
pretty unrealistic complaints
Originally Posted By: OnTheFarm
This is a great thread, I'm glad I found it. I've been on a mission to defeat undercarriage rust for many years. I've tried them all and I have become fairly educated in the products. Below is my opinion.
a) Carwell, Krown, oil, etc. all will do the job to a certain extent. If you shield a metal surface with anything, it will prevent corrosion for a certain time. The problem I had with most of the products, is that they are almost all "solvent based", and that makes them very thin and waterlike, and very drippy. Now when the solvent (alcohol, mineral spirits, etc) evaporates you are left with a semi-dry wax-like coating. And that's fine. It will protect any area's that it has reached before it dried. It's done migrating into other areas. Also if it gets scraped off by something in the road or during repair, it will leave a bare unprotected spot.
Krown and Rust Check both don't dry. They are thin oil. My Lincoln was last done like 4 years ago and the Krown that's on it is still a liquid and STILL creeps out between the trim pieces.
It is also still wet on the frame rails on our Expedition.
I only have two complaints with Krown:
1. On vehicles with pre-existing corrosion, it appears to wick/soak into the corrosion making reapplication in those areas necessary after a bit.
2. The dripping/creeping can get annoying when it is burning off your exhaust or on your driveway.
pretty unrealistic complaints
I'll be starting the rust treatment soon. I use waste oil in a spray gun and spray underneath. Then, drive it down a dirt road. Rinse, lather, repeat.
My Jeep looks as good as it did when I bought it in 2010 on frame and suspension. The rockers are starting to rust, but I have new ones ready to go in.
The Focus looks brand new.
Metal coolant, PS, etc lines I apply grease to by hand. Any bolts with exposed threads get a big glob of grease.
My Jeep looks as good as it did when I bought it in 2010 on frame and suspension. The rockers are starting to rust, but I have new ones ready to go in.
The Focus looks brand new.
Metal coolant, PS, etc lines I apply grease to by hand. Any bolts with exposed threads get a big glob of grease.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: FXjohn
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: OnTheFarm
This is a great thread, I'm glad I found it. I've been on a mission to defeat undercarriage rust for many years. I've tried them all and I have become fairly educated in the products. Below is my opinion.
a) Carwell, Krown, oil, etc. all will do the job to a certain extent. If you shield a metal surface with anything, it will prevent corrosion for a certain time. The problem I had with most of the products, is that they are almost all "solvent based", and that makes them very thin and waterlike, and very drippy. Now when the solvent (alcohol, mineral spirits, etc) evaporates you are left with a semi-dry wax-like coating. And that's fine. It will protect any area's that it has reached before it dried. It's done migrating into other areas. Also if it gets scraped off by something in the road or during repair, it will leave a bare unprotected spot.
Krown and Rust Check both don't dry. They are thin oil. My Lincoln was last done like 4 years ago and the Krown that's on it is still a liquid and STILL creeps out between the trim pieces.
It is also still wet on the frame rails on our Expedition.
I only have two complaints with Krown:
1. On vehicles with pre-existing corrosion, it appears to wick/soak into the corrosion making reapplication in those areas necessary after a bit.
2. The dripping/creeping can get annoying when it is burning off your exhaust or on your driveway.
pretty unrealistic complaints
Perhaps I should have said "things to watch out for"
Originally Posted By: OVERKILL
Originally Posted By: OnTheFarm
This is a great thread, I'm glad I found it. I've been on a mission to defeat undercarriage rust for many years. I've tried them all and I have become fairly educated in the products. Below is my opinion.
a) Carwell, Krown, oil, etc. all will do the job to a certain extent. If you shield a metal surface with anything, it will prevent corrosion for a certain time. The problem I had with most of the products, is that they are almost all "solvent based", and that makes them very thin and waterlike, and very drippy. Now when the solvent (alcohol, mineral spirits, etc) evaporates you are left with a semi-dry wax-like coating. And that's fine. It will protect any area's that it has reached before it dried. It's done migrating into other areas. Also if it gets scraped off by something in the road or during repair, it will leave a bare unprotected spot.
Krown and Rust Check both don't dry. They are thin oil. My Lincoln was last done like 4 years ago and the Krown that's on it is still a liquid and STILL creeps out between the trim pieces.
It is also still wet on the frame rails on our Expedition.
I only have two complaints with Krown:
1. On vehicles with pre-existing corrosion, it appears to wick/soak into the corrosion making reapplication in those areas necessary after a bit.
2. The dripping/creeping can get annoying when it is burning off your exhaust or on your driveway.
pretty unrealistic complaints
Perhaps I should have said "things to watch out for"
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