99 Oldsmobile Cutlass Cooling System Issue

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Feb 18, 2013
Messages
164
Location
Chicago, IL
I managed to take out all Engine codes and fixed my ABS system. I have now passed my Illinois Emmision test.

Another problem has rise.

My car keeps overheating.

I did a coolant flush, replaced the water pump, and thermostat.

As I drive the engine runs fine but after a couple miles it starts rising in temperature. the weird thing is that the coolant should be at the lebvel it should be. but once it starts overheating the coolant is being released from the escape hose. one thing I did notice is that before I replaced the previous water pump the hose that attaches to water pump (lower hose) is cool and no pressure in it what so ever. while the hose that's attached to the t-stat is hard and hot.

I tried to purge the coolant sustem and this is what I get



any help with this guys can be greatly appreciated. im almost done in completely keeping all to maintenance I just want to stop the overheating.


P.S Im using Dex-cool 50/50 the Intake manifold gasket is good
 
You have not bled the cooling system correctly. There is a specific method for that engine type. Try searching it.
 
On my '90 cutlass, 3.3V6, flush and then let it burp. If I'm not mistaken, I don't think you should be using that dex-death stuff....have read many problems with that. You got to make sure the engine is hot enough to open up the thermostat so that the air can get out of the engine. Take off the radiator cap and let it run until you get up to operating temperature, water pump will force the air out and then it will burp out through the radiator.
 
On my '90 cutlass, 3.3V6, flush and then let it burp. If I'm not mistaken, I don't think you should be using that dex-death stuff....have read many problems with that. You got to make sure the engine is hot enough to open up the thermostat so that the air can get out of the engine. Take off the radiator cap and let it run until you get up to operating temperature, water pump will force the air out and then it will burp out through the radiator.
 
^ This car with 3.1 is a totally different system.

Where you took that hose off, I would try temporarily attaching a hose to the pipe and rising it a couple feet the put a funnel in the other end. Think of it as an IV. Add coolant to it until it spills out the other detatched end.

Also there should be two bleeder valves, open them and make sure coolant dribbles out.
 
does the lower radiotar hose have to be cool and soft while the engine is hot and the hoses are all hard and hot
 
Burp first:
Start with a cold engine.

Reconnect that hose you have off and disconnect the slightly larger hose just below it by the water pump. Fill it up as much as you can. Try to get the level about 3/4 of an inch below the top of the cap, then reconnect that hose and put the cap on.

Run the engine at idle until the upper radiator hose gets hot + 30 seconds to a minute. Shut the engine off. Open the bleed valve by the water pump until coolant comes out, then close it. Top off the coolant reservoir.

Start the engine and let it idle until the cooling fan comes on or 3 minutes after you have a hot upper radiator hose, whichever comes first. Raise engine speed to about 3000 RPM for 15 seconds, then idle a minute and do another 15 seconds at 3000 RPMs. This will push any air out of the heater core.

Stop the engine. Again, open the bleeder by the water pump, but this time leave it open and top off the coolant while the bleeder is still open. Close everything up and allow the engine to cool.

If the water pump and thermostat are both working this will get you to a reasonably filled system w/o using an Airlift filler tool. If there is still an overheating problem you'll need the system full to help with diagnosis.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top