Oil for a 2014 Odyssey
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Use any name brand synthetic 0w20 and a decent filter (like a P1), and the body will rust off that van before you wear the motor out.
I would put the cheapest available name brand API SN oil and a Honda or other name brand low-cost filter on it and run it to the oil life monitor 5% warning. Nothing more expensive than that is going to give you any benefits that you will ever notice and is a total waste of money, despite what people will tell you here. Anything more expensive is only better in advertising and oil executive bonus plans and in people's imagination. In reality, it makes no difference at all to your engine. Drive cheap, worry less, and neither you nor your vehicle will know the difference except you'll have more money in your pocket.
+1 on the P1 filter....between my 2 cars, I have 110K miles on P1 over the last 6+ years and very happy with it. 5K OCI on one car and about 7K +/- OCIs on the Ody. So easily used 20 filters or so by now...
Super cheap at AAP after their discounts...
Super cheap at AAP after their discounts...
Originally Posted By: J. A. Rizzo
I would put the cheapest available name brand API SN oil and a Honda or other name brand low-cost filter on it and run it to the oil life monitor 5% warning. Nothing more expensive than that is going to give you any benefits that you will ever notice and is a total waste of money, despite what people will tell you here. Anything more expensive is only better in advertising and oil executive bonus plans and in people's imagination. In reality, it makes no difference at all to your engine. Drive cheap, worry less, and neither you nor your vehicle will know the difference except you'll have more money in your pocket.
You need to talk to Trav. He is an expert with sludge prone Hondas.
I would put the cheapest available name brand API SN oil and a Honda or other name brand low-cost filter on it and run it to the oil life monitor 5% warning. Nothing more expensive than that is going to give you any benefits that you will ever notice and is a total waste of money, despite what people will tell you here. Anything more expensive is only better in advertising and oil executive bonus plans and in people's imagination. In reality, it makes no difference at all to your engine. Drive cheap, worry less, and neither you nor your vehicle will know the difference except you'll have more money in your pocket.
You need to talk to Trav. He is an expert with sludge prone Hondas.
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: J. A. Rizzo
I would put the cheapest available name brand API SN oil and a Honda or other name brand low-cost filter on it and run it to the oil life monitor 5% warning. Nothing more expensive than that is going to give you any benefits that you will ever notice and is a total waste of money, despite what people will tell you here. Anything more expensive is only better in advertising and oil executive bonus plans and in people's imagination. In reality, it makes no difference at all to your engine. Drive cheap, worry less, and neither you nor your vehicle will know the difference except you'll have more money in your pocket.
You need to talk to Trav. He is an expert with sludge prone Hondas.
Hopefully by 2014 that issue Trav wrote about is history.
Originally Posted By: J. A. Rizzo
I would put the cheapest available name brand API SN oil and a Honda or other name brand low-cost filter on it and run it to the oil life monitor 5% warning. Nothing more expensive than that is going to give you any benefits that you will ever notice and is a total waste of money, despite what people will tell you here. Anything more expensive is only better in advertising and oil executive bonus plans and in people's imagination. In reality, it makes no difference at all to your engine. Drive cheap, worry less, and neither you nor your vehicle will know the difference except you'll have more money in your pocket.
You need to talk to Trav. He is an expert with sludge prone Hondas.
Hopefully by 2014 that issue Trav wrote about is history.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: J. A. Rizzo
I would put the cheapest available name brand API SN oil and a Honda or other name brand low-cost filter on it and run it to the oil life monitor 5% warning. Nothing more expensive than that is going to give you any benefits that you will ever notice and is a total waste of money, despite what people will tell you here. Anything more expensive is only better in advertising and oil executive bonus plans and in people's imagination. In reality, it makes no difference at all to your engine. Drive cheap, worry less, and neither you nor your vehicle will know the difference except you'll have more money in your pocket.
You need to talk to Trav. He is an expert with sludge prone Hondas.
Hopefully by 2014 that issue Trav wrote about is history.
Unless Honda changes their VCM system in a serious way, I doubt it.
5,000 miles OCI is a wise thing with the Honda 3.5L.
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: J. A. Rizzo
I would put the cheapest available name brand API SN oil and a Honda or other name brand low-cost filter on it and run it to the oil life monitor 5% warning. Nothing more expensive than that is going to give you any benefits that you will ever notice and is a total waste of money, despite what people will tell you here. Anything more expensive is only better in advertising and oil executive bonus plans and in people's imagination. In reality, it makes no difference at all to your engine. Drive cheap, worry less, and neither you nor your vehicle will know the difference except you'll have more money in your pocket.
You need to talk to Trav. He is an expert with sludge prone Hondas.
Hopefully by 2014 that issue Trav wrote about is history.
Unless Honda changes their VCM system in a serious way, I doubt it.
5,000 miles OCI is a wise thing with the Honda 3.5L.
Originally Posted By: Danno
Unless Honda changes their VCM system in a serious way, I doubt it.
5,000 miles OCI is a wise thing with the Honda 3.5L.
I never had any such problem with my 3.5 by following the OLM. Maybe this is a rare or invented problem and an arbitrary oil change schedule is a waste of time and worry and money. What percentage of Honda 3.5s has the problem and what are its effects? How does a 5000 mile OCI change that?
Unless Honda changes their VCM system in a serious way, I doubt it.
5,000 miles OCI is a wise thing with the Honda 3.5L.
I never had any such problem with my 3.5 by following the OLM. Maybe this is a rare or invented problem and an arbitrary oil change schedule is a waste of time and worry and money. What percentage of Honda 3.5s has the problem and what are its effects? How does a 5000 mile OCI change that?
Originally Posted By: Danno
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: J. A. Rizzo
I would put the cheapest available name brand API SN oil and a Honda or other name brand low-cost filter on it and run it to the oil life monitor 5% warning. Nothing more expensive than that is going to give you any benefits that you will ever notice and is a total waste of money, despite what people will tell you here. Anything more expensive is only better in advertising and oil executive bonus plans and in people's imagination. In reality, it makes no difference at all to your engine. Drive cheap, worry less, and neither you nor your vehicle will know the difference except you'll have more money in your pocket.
You need to talk to Trav. He is an expert with sludge prone Hondas.
Hopefully by 2014 that issue Trav wrote about is history.
Unless Honda changes their VCM system in a serious way, I doubt it.
5,000 miles OCI is a wise thing with the Honda 3.5L.
I am aware of the VCM issues in previous years. That is why I am going to keep the OCI conservative and document every oil change using the date of the receipt and oil change process. Call it overkill, but we are planning on driving this thing until the wheels fall off.
Thanks for the input. For the length of the warranty I will keep it on a OEM filter and either M1 or PP. I love M1 and use it in my Audi. The only reason I questioned it was because of what I heard from other Odyssey owners.
Any other thoughts?
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
Originally Posted By: J. A. Rizzo
I would put the cheapest available name brand API SN oil and a Honda or other name brand low-cost filter on it and run it to the oil life monitor 5% warning. Nothing more expensive than that is going to give you any benefits that you will ever notice and is a total waste of money, despite what people will tell you here. Anything more expensive is only better in advertising and oil executive bonus plans and in people's imagination. In reality, it makes no difference at all to your engine. Drive cheap, worry less, and neither you nor your vehicle will know the difference except you'll have more money in your pocket.
You need to talk to Trav. He is an expert with sludge prone Hondas.
Hopefully by 2014 that issue Trav wrote about is history.
Unless Honda changes their VCM system in a serious way, I doubt it.
5,000 miles OCI is a wise thing with the Honda 3.5L.
I am aware of the VCM issues in previous years. That is why I am going to keep the OCI conservative and document every oil change using the date of the receipt and oil change process. Call it overkill, but we are planning on driving this thing until the wheels fall off.
Thanks for the input. For the length of the warranty I will keep it on a OEM filter and either M1 or PP. I love M1 and use it in my Audi. The only reason I questioned it was because of what I heard from other Odyssey owners.
Any other thoughts?
"conservative OCI"...while I can understand, I urge you to follow the maintenance minder at the least and not dump the oil any sooner.
I followed the maintenance minder for warranty reasons but have been experimenting with the last two OCIs after the warranty ran out - first was a ~6K and the second a ~10K. It did 6K comfortably, but 10K was starting to feel a bit rough on the PU 5w-20 and the oil was beginning to smell as if it was about to begin burning. I am thinking 7K next and I'm thinking of a mix for a higher HTHS and VI...see my thread here (not much responses as yet) in case it gets some informative responses and helps...
Else, I will just do Maintenance Minder with any decent synthetic 0w-20 SN.
I followed the maintenance minder for warranty reasons but have been experimenting with the last two OCIs after the warranty ran out - first was a ~6K and the second a ~10K. It did 6K comfortably, but 10K was starting to feel a bit rough on the PU 5w-20 and the oil was beginning to smell as if it was about to begin burning. I am thinking 7K next and I'm thinking of a mix for a higher HTHS and VI...see my thread here (not much responses as yet) in case it gets some informative responses and helps...
Else, I will just do Maintenance Minder with any decent synthetic 0w-20 SN.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: J. A. Rizzo
Originally Posted By: Danno
Unless Honda changes their VCM system in a serious way, I doubt it.
5,000 miles OCI is a wise thing with the Honda 3.5L.
I never had any such problem with my 3.5 by following the OLM. Maybe this is a rare or invented problem and an arbitrary oil change schedule is a waste of time and worry and money. What percentage of Honda 3.5s has the problem and what are its effects? How does a 5000 mile OCI change that?
5K conventional, 7500 on syns in the Honda 3.5 VCM's. Period. Personally, I would not use anything BUT a syn in this Honda engine.
If you think its "rare or invented", better think again. Look up some of the pics that float around the net.
Originally Posted By: Danno
Unless Honda changes their VCM system in a serious way, I doubt it.
5,000 miles OCI is a wise thing with the Honda 3.5L.
I never had any such problem with my 3.5 by following the OLM. Maybe this is a rare or invented problem and an arbitrary oil change schedule is a waste of time and worry and money. What percentage of Honda 3.5s has the problem and what are its effects? How does a 5000 mile OCI change that?
5K conventional, 7500 on syns in the Honda 3.5 VCM's. Period. Personally, I would not use anything BUT a syn in this Honda engine.
If you think its "rare or invented", better think again. Look up some of the pics that float around the net.
Originally Posted By: SF0059
I am aware of the VCM issues in previous years. That is why I am going to keep the OCI conservative and document every oil change using the date of the receipt and oil change process. Call it overkill, but we are planning on driving this thing until the wheels fall off.
Thanks for the input. For the length of the warranty I will keep it on a OEM filter and either M1 or PP. I love M1 and use it in my Audi. The only reason I questioned it was because of what I heard from other Odyssey owners.
Any other thoughts?
I like your plan.
I am aware of the VCM issues in previous years. That is why I am going to keep the OCI conservative and document every oil change using the date of the receipt and oil change process. Call it overkill, but we are planning on driving this thing until the wheels fall off.
Thanks for the input. For the length of the warranty I will keep it on a OEM filter and either M1 or PP. I love M1 and use it in my Audi. The only reason I questioned it was because of what I heard from other Odyssey owners.
Any other thoughts?
I like your plan.
Originally Posted By: atoalson
I read on here somewhere, the M1 0W-20 is lighter at startup and a little heavier at operating temp than PP 0W-20. I have a '13 Accord V6 I'm weighing the oil options for.
It seems also that Mobil 1 0w20 shears more than PP 0w20. Im not knocking Mobil, just something to consider.
I read on here somewhere, the M1 0W-20 is lighter at startup and a little heavier at operating temp than PP 0W-20. I have a '13 Accord V6 I'm weighing the oil options for.
It seems also that Mobil 1 0w20 shears more than PP 0w20. Im not knocking Mobil, just something to consider.
i agree the cheapest name brand sn
My accountant goes to wal mart once a year in July before his vacation for a super tech oil change in his 2003 cadillac with 173,000 miles and his 2009 lincoln with 125,xxx miles with no problems at all he does not care about the mileage he drives. Personally im a twice a year or 7500 mile type of guy
I know someone who leased a 2007 buick for three years and never ever changed his oil until the month he turned it in at 27,000 miles( i did it for him) Still ran nice!
My accountant goes to wal mart once a year in July before his vacation for a super tech oil change in his 2003 cadillac with 173,000 miles and his 2009 lincoln with 125,xxx miles with no problems at all he does not care about the mileage he drives. Personally im a twice a year or 7500 mile type of guy
I know someone who leased a 2007 buick for three years and never ever changed his oil until the month he turned it in at 27,000 miles( i did it for him) Still ran nice!
Originally Posted By: crazyoildude
i agree the cheapest name brand sn
My accountant goes to wal mart once a year in July before his vacation for a super tech oil change in his 2003 cadillac with 173,000 miles and his 2009 lincoln with 125,xxx miles with no problems at all he does not care about the mileage he drives. Personally im a twice a year or 7500 mile type of guy
I know someone who leased a 2007 buick for three years and never ever changed his oil until the month he turned it in at 27,000 miles( i did it for him) Still ran nice!
Neither the Cadillac, the Lincoln, nor the Buick has a Honda 3.5 VCM under their hood, either.
i agree the cheapest name brand sn
My accountant goes to wal mart once a year in July before his vacation for a super tech oil change in his 2003 cadillac with 173,000 miles and his 2009 lincoln with 125,xxx miles with no problems at all he does not care about the mileage he drives. Personally im a twice a year or 7500 mile type of guy
I know someone who leased a 2007 buick for three years and never ever changed his oil until the month he turned it in at 27,000 miles( i did it for him) Still ran nice!
Neither the Cadillac, the Lincoln, nor the Buick has a Honda 3.5 VCM under their hood, either.
How about TGMO 0w20 for your Odyssey?
Originally Posted By: J. A. Rizzo
Originally Posted By: Danno
Unless Honda changes their VCM system in a serious way, I doubt it.
5,000 miles OCI is a wise thing with the Honda 3.5L.
I never had any such problem with my 3.5 by following the OLM. Maybe this is a rare or invented problem and an arbitrary oil change schedule is a waste of time and worry and money. What percentage of Honda 3.5s has the problem and what are its effects? How does a 5000 mile OCI change that?
Search Trav's post on it, there's some good info and he speaks about a few he's serviced with the issue. The problem was not invented, it's real. How widespread it is would be anyone's guess, but it happens enough times for people to be sounding off about it. Maybe Honda resolved it by now.
Originally Posted By: Danno
Unless Honda changes their VCM system in a serious way, I doubt it.
5,000 miles OCI is a wise thing with the Honda 3.5L.
I never had any such problem with my 3.5 by following the OLM. Maybe this is a rare or invented problem and an arbitrary oil change schedule is a waste of time and worry and money. What percentage of Honda 3.5s has the problem and what are its effects? How does a 5000 mile OCI change that?
Search Trav's post on it, there's some good info and he speaks about a few he's serviced with the issue. The problem was not invented, it's real. How widespread it is would be anyone's guess, but it happens enough times for people to be sounding off about it. Maybe Honda resolved it by now.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: atoalson
I read on here somewhere, the M1 0W-20 is lighter at startup and a little heavier at operating temp than PP 0W-20. I have a '13 Accord V6 I'm weighing the oil options for.
It seems also that Mobil 1 0w20 shears more than PP 0w20. Im not knocking Mobil, just something to consider.
Whoa, I didn't know that. M1 has a higher HT/HS and it's heavier at temp. Do you think the PP 0W-20 would be a better fit for the Honda 3.5?
Originally Posted By: atoalson
I read on here somewhere, the M1 0W-20 is lighter at startup and a little heavier at operating temp than PP 0W-20. I have a '13 Accord V6 I'm weighing the oil options for.
It seems also that Mobil 1 0w20 shears more than PP 0w20. Im not knocking Mobil, just something to consider.
Whoa, I didn't know that. M1 has a higher HT/HS and it's heavier at temp. Do you think the PP 0W-20 would be a better fit for the Honda 3.5?
Originally Posted By: atoalson
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: atoalson
I read on here somewhere, the M1 0W-20 is lighter at startup and a little heavier at operating temp than PP 0W-20. I have a '13 Accord V6 I'm weighing the oil options for.
It seems also that Mobil 1 0w20 shears more than PP 0w20. Im not knocking Mobil, just something to consider.
Whoa, I didn't know that. M1 has a higher HT/HS and it's heavier at temp. Do you think the PP 0W-20 would be a better fit for the Honda 3.5?
Possibly, just look up some UOA of M1 0w20 vs PP 0w20 and decide for yourself. What I took away was that PP 0w20 shear less, many report (including myself) that PP runs very quiet. M1 makes our Uplander tick.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: atoalson
I read on here somewhere, the M1 0W-20 is lighter at startup and a little heavier at operating temp than PP 0W-20. I have a '13 Accord V6 I'm weighing the oil options for.
It seems also that Mobil 1 0w20 shears more than PP 0w20. Im not knocking Mobil, just something to consider.
Whoa, I didn't know that. M1 has a higher HT/HS and it's heavier at temp. Do you think the PP 0W-20 would be a better fit for the Honda 3.5?
Possibly, just look up some UOA of M1 0w20 vs PP 0w20 and decide for yourself. What I took away was that PP 0w20 shear less, many report (including myself) that PP runs very quiet. M1 makes our Uplander tick.
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