Factory fill - 2013 Honda Accord 2.4L - 5328 miles

[harrydog]

I drained the factory fill when it hit 40%
Here's the Blackstone report:



BILL: This is a textbook wear-in sample here. Metals are high (especially iron and copper), but that’s due to
wear-in of new parts and isn't a concern at all. The extra silicon comes from sealers, and together with
metals, it should improve over the next few samples. No coolant, water, or fuel was found, and the TBN was
fine at 2.4. Averages for this engine are based on about 6,700 miles on the oil. Check back next oil change
to monitor for progress from your new Accord.


Aluminum 5
Chromium 1
Iron 29
Copper 16
Lead 0
Tin 0
Moly 683
Nickel 0
Manganese 11
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 11
Boron 177
Silicon 110
Sodium 11
Calcium 1870
Magnesium 12
Phosphorus 695
Zinc 812
Barium 4

SUS Viscosoty @ 210F 47.5
cSt Viscosity @ 100C 6.51
Flashpoint in F 390
Fuel % Antifreeze % 0
Water % 0
Insolubles % 0.4
TBN 2.4

 

[Hermann]

Holy Moly Cules Batman

As Blackstone said, pretty typical Honda FF report. All that Moly is why they don't want you to drain at 1 or 2K.

If it were mine I would do 5K OCI's till 20K to flush it out every so often.

What did you put back in?

 

[147_Grain]

Thanks for sharing the report.

Another option would have been to drain the break-in fluid much sooner and add a can of MoS2 to the new oil. This is what I do with my new engines.

 

[Brybo86]

Is it just me but I feel like the oem Honda filter seems to allow insolubles a lot of the time? Usually low but like 0.3 to 0.5

Also this seems to be the second bitog uoa on the new earth dreams engine both have had 0.5% fuel dilution.

Question.. how long did u warm up the car before changing this oil?

 

[harrydog]

Originally Posted By: Hermann
Holy Moly Cules Batman

As Blackstone said, pretty typical Honda FF report. All that Moly is why they don't want you to drain at 1 or 2K.

If it were mine I would do 5K OCI's till 20K to flush it out every so often.

What did you put back in?


I'm not sure if it's the best choice but I replaced the FF with Mobil 1 0w20.

 

[harrydog]

Originally Posted By: Brybo86
Is it just me but I feel like the oem Honda filter seems to allow insolubles a lot of the time? Usually low but like 0.3 to 0.5

Also this seems to be the second bitog uoa on the new earth dreams engine both have had 0.5% fuel dilution.

Question.. how long did u warm up the car before changing this oil?

I always drive my cars at least 10 miles before draining the oil. Dosn't Blackstone always show <0.5% fuel when fuel dilution is minimal? I've seen Blackstone reports with more than 0.5% but I'm not sure if I've ever seen them with less.

 

[spasm3]

Sheared a good bit breaking in. cst 6.51 @ 100c, Glad you did'nt go longer.

 

[Voltmaster]

683?

MY GOODNESS

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Sheared a good bit breaking in. cst 6.51 @ 100c, Glad you did'nt go longer.

This is the FF so how do you know it sheared at all?
In all likelihood, the FF is their 0W-16 oil.

OP, you're right the UOA shows no indication of fuel in the oil.
Your car is designed to run on very light oil so the relatively heavy M1 0W-20 would not have been an ideal choice. For you next OC I'd suggest an OEM 0W-20 such as the Mazda moly 0W-20 or TGMO 0W-20.

 

[tc1446]

Nice report. I changed mine exactly at 5K, replaced it with M1 0W-20 and Ultra filter. At 10K I'll change it again and do a Blackstone mainly to check on the fuel content, the DI being my main concern. Would PP or Valvoline 0W-20 be more suitable than M1? I'm going to use whatever is readily avail at Walmart.

 

[Hokiefyd]

All of the 0W-20s available at Walmart are fine choices. Use any of them with confidence.

 

[Hermann]

Originally Posted By: harrydog
Originally Posted By: Hermann
Holy Moly Cules Batman

As Blackstone said, pretty typical Honda FF report. All that Moly is why they don't want you to drain at 1 or 2K.

If it were mine I would do 5K OCI's till 20K to flush it out every so often.

What did you put back in?


I'm not sure if it's the best choice but I replaced the FF with Mobil 1 0w20.


IMO it is a great choice. I have run it twice in the 4 cyl Tacoma. No oil use and the engine just "feels better" Not a thick head at all, but a bit extra viscosity in summer is OK in my book.

 

[Sayjac]

Fwiw, I agree with your call to drain the ff before 15% MM. Getting the abrasive wear metals out trump the high moly in the assembly lube and ff.

As B/S said looks normal.

Thanks for posting.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
All of the 0W-20s available at Walmart are fine choices. Use any of them with confidence.

For the most part they are a better choice than a 5W-20 syn' but not by much.
The high VI OEM 0W-20's are much lighter on start-up.
For example TGMO is 35% lighter at 32F and still 25% lighter on start-up at room temperature compared to M1 0W-20.
To put this is some context, a typical 5W-20 is only about 20-25% lighter than a 5W-30 at 32F.

 

[dave1251]

OP your choice of oil will provide more than necessary protection for the lifetime of your vehicle.