1995 Taurus running thread
- Thread starter TechnoLoGs
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Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
For you GHT
Volvo P1800
I've got one way more up his alley -
actually helping my mom to get rid of it right now, hasn't been run in years. GHT + bondo = entertainment...
For you GHT
Volvo P1800
I've got one way more up his alley -
actually helping my mom to get rid of it right now, hasn't been run in years. GHT + bondo = entertainment...
Originally Posted By: surfstar
Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
For you GHT
Volvo P1800
I've got one way more up his alley -
actually helping my mom to get rid of it right now, hasn't been run in years. GHT + bondo = entertainment...
Looks like Bond's car!
If I am ever in California, I'll be looking at those, and XCs.
Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
For you GHT
Volvo P1800
I've got one way more up his alley -
actually helping my mom to get rid of it right now, hasn't been run in years. GHT + bondo = entertainment...
Looks like Bond's car!
If I am ever in California, I'll be looking at those, and XCs.
Now! The WP got done yesterday, and I am about to start her up for the first time with proper cooling! Had some rumbling tank as the air got purged from system, and I wonder just how much of it is left in expansion tank for me to top up on.
Since I am petrified of head gasket problems from when my cooling was umm horrible, the "steam" on startup is NORMAL?? Or, since its like 75 degrees out.. Shouldnnt be any?
Since I am petrified of head gasket problems from when my cooling was umm horrible, the "steam" on startup is NORMAL?? Or, since its like 75 degrees out.. Shouldnnt be any?
I might be taking a roadtrip today, so, If anyone wants to see a video of it shifting, driving, let me know. (To better diagnose how its acting, etc.)
I could leave the commentary out and just shoot the video. If anyone is interested to see just how DRASTICALLY shifting has improved.. And I can't tell you how tempting it is to add the last two bottles of Trans-X to the trans. (It is shifting pretty smooth. Maybe that bum bearing had more to do with it than I thought!)
Taking it somewhere for oil change today, since 1. My tools are somewhere else and 2. Unsure drain plug location. I heard it is in a stupid spot, this one.
5W-30, must resist all urge to overfill a quart with Redline 0W-20?
I could leave the commentary out and just shoot the video. If anyone is interested to see just how DRASTICALLY shifting has improved.. And I can't tell you how tempting it is to add the last two bottles of Trans-X to the trans. (It is shifting pretty smooth. Maybe that bum bearing had more to do with it than I thought!)
Taking it somewhere for oil change today, since 1. My tools are somewhere else and 2. Unsure drain plug location. I heard it is in a stupid spot, this one.
5W-30, must resist all urge to overfill a quart with Redline 0W-20?
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
And, final question: Is the Voltage Regulator a part of the alternator? I think it is, and I think armos is right.. I think it is causing fluxuations, and I can see it in the dash gauges, and feel it in how the car drives. I don't want to destroy my new battery. If my card comes, alt and WP will be changed.. Not waiting for Rob.
Rectifier, not voltage regulator. Those are different things. A rectifier converts AC to DC.
I don't see rectifiers listed for your car on RockAuto, so maybe it's integrated with the voltage regulator (which is listed). But I don't know that. Maybe it's separate and they just don't have them.
There must be a Taurus forum with people who know all about it.
And, final question: Is the Voltage Regulator a part of the alternator? I think it is, and I think armos is right.. I think it is causing fluxuations, and I can see it in the dash gauges, and feel it in how the car drives. I don't want to destroy my new battery. If my card comes, alt and WP will be changed.. Not waiting for Rob.
Rectifier, not voltage regulator. Those are different things. A rectifier converts AC to DC.
I don't see rectifiers listed for your car on RockAuto, so maybe it's integrated with the voltage regulator (which is listed). But I don't know that. Maybe it's separate and they just don't have them.
There must be a Taurus forum with people who know all about it.
Well.... Third gear *appears* to have went away again after working fine (and Overdrive) all day. The end of a long, hot day, full of driving.
Am going to leave battery ON this time, although its weird that if I disconnect/reconnect it, I appear to get the gears back. (??)
Could my torque converter be overheating?
Am going to leave battery ON this time, although its weird that if I disconnect/reconnect it, I appear to get the gears back. (??)
Could my torque converter be overheating?
^^^^ Some may not care, but I now STRONGLY think something electrical is happening. Disconnected/Reconnected battery, and it shifts fine. 3rd, Overdrive.. Fine.
What the ???????
What the ???????
Is this a Sandy car?
It immediately fixes it, and not from cooling off? It stays working while still just as hot?
Disconnecting battery would reset the ECM. But I can't think of any reason the ECM would have decided to disable higher gears, so that doesn't really make sense.
Was the coolant temperature running very hot when this happened? I can imagine the ECM could be programmed to force a lower gear to help cooling, but I doubt that's it.
I've seen where (older) ECMs are programmed to idle higher when overheating. I don't know if they extend that to the shifting logic - probably not.
You've verified the transmission fluid is (still) at the correct level? I'm wondering if the trans is overheating. Somehow it would be nice to verify that the fluid is circulating as it should be. I don't know how best to go about that.
This is a new radiator, right? Not a junkyard part?
Disconnecting battery would reset the ECM. But I can't think of any reason the ECM would have decided to disable higher gears, so that doesn't really make sense.
Was the coolant temperature running very hot when this happened? I can imagine the ECM could be programmed to force a lower gear to help cooling, but I doubt that's it.
I've seen where (older) ECMs are programmed to idle higher when overheating. I don't know if they extend that to the shifting logic - probably not.
You've verified the transmission fluid is (still) at the correct level? I'm wondering if the trans is overheating. Somehow it would be nice to verify that the fluid is circulating as it should be. I don't know how best to go about that.
This is a new radiator, right? Not a junkyard part?
QP, there are suspicions it could be a flood car, we just dont kbow. Some signs say yes some say it just sat for years then sold quick. Could have flooded when sat. We dont know.
You know Ford bought Volvo, that we know.
Originally Posted By: armos
It immediately fixes it, and not from cooling off? It stays working while still just as hot?
Disconnecting battery would reset the ECM. But I can't think of any reason the ECM would have decided to disable higher gears, so that doesn't really make sense.
Was the coolant temperature running very hot when this happened? I can imagine the ECM could be programmed to force a lower gear to help cooling, but I doubt that's it.
I've seen where (older) ECMs are programmed to idle higher when overheating. I don't know if they extend that to the shifting logic - probablyno[/
You've verified the transmission fluid is (still) at the correct level? I'm wondering if the trans is overheating. Somehow it would be nice to verify that the fluid is circulating as it should be. I don't know how best to go about that.
This is a new radiator, right? Not a junkyard part?
Radiator is NEW. I have receipt.
And you also capture my confusion.
No rumbling tank, no obvious overheat... Suspecting voltage issue, temp gauge fluxuates as does gas gauge.
Maybe its shorting the ECM?
Today was the most bizarre. Normal day of use, ~100 long, shifty, hot miles, AC on all day. Then, when coming home.. I lose OD. Then, a mile from home.. I lose third. NO smokes, overheat, smells. 2, 1, and R shift and work perfect. Full hot.
I let it sit 20 minutes: I have inconclusive if 3rd is engaging.
You know Ford bought Volvo, that we know.
Originally Posted By: armos
It immediately fixes it, and not from cooling off? It stays working while still just as hot?
Disconnecting battery would reset the ECM. But I can't think of any reason the ECM would have decided to disable higher gears, so that doesn't really make sense.
Was the coolant temperature running very hot when this happened? I can imagine the ECM could be programmed to force a lower gear to help cooling, but I doubt that's it.
I've seen where (older) ECMs are programmed to idle higher when overheating. I don't know if they extend that to the shifting logic - probablyno[/
You've verified the transmission fluid is (still) at the correct level? I'm wondering if the trans is overheating. Somehow it would be nice to verify that the fluid is circulating as it should be. I don't know how best to go about that.
This is a new radiator, right? Not a junkyard part?
Radiator is NEW. I have receipt.
And you also capture my confusion.
No rumbling tank, no obvious overheat... Suspecting voltage issue, temp gauge fluxuates as does gas gauge.
Maybe its shorting the ECM?
Today was the most bizarre. Normal day of use, ~100 long, shifty, hot miles, AC on all day. Then, when coming home.. I lose OD. Then, a mile from home.. I lose third. NO smokes, overheat, smells. 2, 1, and R shift and work perfect. Full hot.
I let it sit 20 minutes: I have inconclusive if 3rd is engaging.
engaging.
I disconnect battery 5 minutes: The "slams" come back, but all gears work YES INCLUDING OVERDRIVE, PROPEE SHIFT POINTS, 2nd at 15 or so, 3rd at 35, OD at 45+, PERFECT. WEIRD!
Fluid level shows high when car is OFF, as it should
Level RUNNING is right
WORKS FULL HOT after battery disconnect/reconnect
... I suspect electrical MORE THAN heat.
If clutches were smoked, it wouldnt come back INSTANTLY FULL HOT.
Still, it MAY be running hot.. Volt flux could be making needle not read right. I tried to purge all air pockets.T hey self-bleed?
Thinking of changing out another gallon of ATF tomorrow, old for new, if it IS heat. Seems a split between.it, and mystery electrical issue
I disconnect battery 5 minutes: The "slams" come back, but all gears work YES INCLUDING OVERDRIVE, PROPEE SHIFT POINTS, 2nd at 15 or so, 3rd at 35, OD at 45+, PERFECT. WEIRD!
Fluid level shows high when car is OFF, as it should
Level RUNNING is right
WORKS FULL HOT after battery disconnect/reconnect
... I suspect electrical MORE THAN heat.
If clutches were smoked, it wouldnt come back INSTANTLY FULL HOT.
Still, it MAY be running hot.. Volt flux could be making needle not read right. I tried to purge all air pockets.T hey self-bleed?
Thinking of changing out another gallon of ATF tomorrow, old for new, if it IS heat. Seems a split between.it, and mystery electrical issue
Originally Posted By: MrQuackers
Volvo P1800
I feel the XC wagons of the late 90s, P2 generation, wIth turbos and AWD, were nicer cars.
Volvo P1800
I feel the XC wagons of the late 90s, P2 generation, wIth turbos and AWD, were nicer cars.
This may be a bit of a longshot, but maybe the next time you run it until the shifting problems start see what battery voltage is with the engine at about 3000 RPMs. It was a common enough problem for an alternator to overvolt and the computer can act like a drunken crackhead if you feed it higher than 15.2V.
Also, clean your battery terminals if you haven't already done so.
Also, clean your battery terminals if you haven't already done so.
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Originally Posted By: yonyon
This may be a bit of a longshot, but maybe the next time you run it until the shifting problems start see what battery voltage is with the engine at about 3000 RPMs. It was a common enough problem for an alternator to overvolt and the computer can act like a drunken crackhead if you feed it higher than 15.2V.
Also, clean your battery terminals if you haven't already done so.
Was 14.02V running when it did it this time, after driving NJ to PA, and working fine.
Disconnect and reconnect fixed it again.
Cleaned battery with degreaser at that time.
Videodocumented whole thing. Shifts almost perfect after. Nice, quick, and snappy..like a BMW!
Transmission electronic control, of some sort ?
Oh, my temp needle goes DOWN from acceleration from full stop, most the time. ??
This may be a bit of a longshot, but maybe the next time you run it until the shifting problems start see what battery voltage is with the engine at about 3000 RPMs. It was a common enough problem for an alternator to overvolt and the computer can act like a drunken crackhead if you feed it higher than 15.2V.
Also, clean your battery terminals if you haven't already done so.
Was 14.02V running when it did it this time, after driving NJ to PA, and working fine.
Disconnect and reconnect fixed it again.
Cleaned battery with degreaser at that time.
Videodocumented whole thing. Shifts almost perfect after. Nice, quick, and snappy..like a BMW!
Transmission electronic control, of some sort ?
Oh, my temp needle goes DOWN from acceleration from full stop, most the time. ??
I just changed out a gallon of ATF, lets see how it acts.
Yup... Same. Disconnect and reconnect, full hot, shifts perfect.
Weird!
And ?
Weird!
And ?
Dude, that car is possessed.
I recommend dumping it now, but if you must see this through to the bitter end, I know we would all enjoy the trip.
I recommend dumping it now, but if you must see this through to the bitter end, I know we would all enjoy the trip.
What could it be. ???
ECM??n
I changed out a gallon of ATF today. It held on a long time before Overdrive/3rd went away.. Disconnect reconnect negative cable, it comes back fine.
??????
ECM??n
I changed out a gallon of ATF today. It held on a long time before Overdrive/3rd went away.. Disconnect reconnect negative cable, it comes back fine.
??????
Originally Posted By: TechnoLoGs
What could it be. ???
It COULD be ANYTHING at this point. You don't seem to learn from your mistakes (yeah, I talking about your money pit Volvo)
If it were me I would take it to the scrap yard and get a few hundred bucks for it.
I WOULD NOT recommend selling it to another person UNLESS you disclose that the car has chronic problems that seem not to be solved even with a reasonable amount of effort.
When oh when is GHT ever gonna learn.
What could it be. ???
It COULD be ANYTHING at this point. You don't seem to learn from your mistakes (yeah, I talking about your money pit Volvo)
If it were me I would take it to the scrap yard and get a few hundred bucks for it.
I WOULD NOT recommend selling it to another person UNLESS you disclose that the car has chronic problems that seem not to be solved even with a reasonable amount of effort.
When oh when is GHT ever gonna learn.
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