Mitsubishi 12-Valve 6G72 Head Overhaul

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Originally Posted By: Silk
I haven't seen a Mitsi engine that dirty for awhile...we need to go back to the '80's to see that much gunge.Mind you,we don't pull them apart that much - valve guide seals means the car is off to the wrecking yard.But pulling rocker covers off gives us a good idea of what they are like - did a rocker cover gasket on a '94 L200 petrol today,just shiny alloy inside.

Maybe using 15/40 is the way to go?


My reasoning behind the dirty engine is the poor quality of engine oils sourced from the UAE. I've kept a record of all the oils I've used in this engine, and the one used the most was Gulf Max 20W-50. This oil used to turn pitch black within 1,000 km of use. Never again.

At the moment I'm running Motorcraft Synthetic Blend 10W-30 for 8,000 km, when I will add some MMO and drain the oil at the 10,000 km mark. That point on, I'm going to be using nothing but French-sourced Mobil 1 0W-40.


Originally Posted By: StevieC
I'm not sure if Falcon_LS's engine has an EGR valve but he certainly has the climate which will produce high heated cylinder heads and cause oil coking with mineral oil.


Yup, my engine is equipped with an EGR valve. It was surprisingly clean, as were the spark plugs and the rest of the exhaust system.
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Originally Posted By: Kestas
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Originally Posted By: CivicFan
How many extra parts do you think you will end up with when you reassemble it?


None.
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I think that's why he wisely took lots of pictures before disassembly.


I promised StevieC I'd take pictures of the disassembly and reassembly, so hence the pictures.
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Never referred to the pictures to reassemble the block.
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Anyhow, after 3 days of work the engine's pulled back together. She now runs like an absolute dream, and I'm really glad I put in the time and money into this project.

The injector insulators and valve seals had turned to hard plastic, and the crankshaft seal was the same. There was some oil on the old timing belt as a result and it took a whole can of CRC Freeze Off to remove the crankshaft sprocket. Needless to say, I replaced it as well whilst replacing the crankshaft seal. I cannot beleive the dealership never even bothered to replace it. Always best to do something yourself.
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Anyhow, here are a couple of more pictures:

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Methinks you've done this before. It sounds that all the parts in the engine were necessary and there were no extra parts left.
 
Originally Posted By: tom slick
What's it like getting that level of automotive work done in Kuwait.

Just to clarify, you did 4 ARX treatments to that engine?

BTW ARX does not claim to soften seals, only clean the sealing surfaces.


wasnt the ARX supposed to clean that varnish off as well or am i mistaken?
 
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
Originally Posted By: tom slick
What's it like getting that level of automotive work done in Kuwait.

Just to clarify, you did 4 ARX treatments to that engine?

BTW ARX does not claim to soften seals, only clean the sealing surfaces.


wasnt the ARX supposed to clean that varnish off as well or am i mistaken?


It seems arx is not that good at cleaning up varnish, and they have said this,claiming that varnish is a cosmetic issue, but I do not believe that.

There is a product that removes varnish, it is called Schaeffer's Neutra.

The other thing I have read about arx is that it does not work that well under splash lubrication.
 
Originally Posted By: c3po
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
Originally Posted By: tom slick
What's it like getting that level of automotive work done in Kuwait.

Just to clarify, you did 4 ARX treatments to that engine?

BTW ARX does not claim to soften seals, only clean the sealing surfaces.


wasnt the ARX supposed to clean that varnish off as well or am i mistaken?


It seems arx is not that good at cleaning up varnish, and they have said this,claiming that varnish is a cosmetic issue, but I do not believe that.

There is a product that removes varnish, it is called Schaeffer's Neutra.

The other thing I have read about arx is that it does not work that well under splash lubrication.


i kinda figured ARX is a lil over hyped..
 
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
Originally Posted By: c3po
Originally Posted By: mikeg5
Originally Posted By: tom slick
What's it like getting that level of automotive work done in Kuwait.

Just to clarify, you did 4 ARX treatments to that engine?

BTW ARX does not claim to soften seals, only clean the sealing surfaces.


wasnt the ARX supposed to clean that varnish off as well or am i mistaken?


It seems arx is not that good at cleaning up varnish, and they have said this,claiming that varnish is a cosmetic issue, but I do not believe that.

There is a product that removes varnish, it is called Schaeffer's Neutra.

The other thing I have read about arx is that it does not work that well under splash lubrication.


i kinda figured ARX is a lil over hyped..


It also thickens up the motor oil when cold, I was reading a post on another forum.
 
It cannot work where it cannot get to. If it is splash it may not be getting there all the time. The amount it thickens when cold is almost immesurable unless you are putting the whole bottle in to a lawnmower.
 
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Sorry for the double post, but if our friend FalconLS had used Neutra for 1000 miles then his valvetrain would have been spotless or looked like the pics above. Now the above pic does show that 1 quart of ATF and a 12 ounce bottle of Neutra was used.

I believe the original pics in the thread showed no cleaning after 4 arx treatments, seems arx does not clean aluminum whereas Neutra does clean aluminum.
 
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I believe the original pics in the thread showed no cleaning after 4 arx treatments, seems arx does not clean aluminum whereas Neutra does clean aluminum.

I am not sure if the statement is correct.
Any solvent/cleaner/miracle_fluid has to get through the layer of sludge/varnish before it even knows that there is an aluminum or iron.
The only 2 ways your statement could be true:
1. There would be a different kind of chemical composition of sludge/varnish in Al vs. Fe
In this case, it means that the metals are REACTING with oil.

2. There would be a some kind of chemical reaction with the cleaner in Al vs. Fe
In this case, it means that the metals are REACTING with the cleaner.

In both cases - entire engine would be dissolved from the inside out and turned to some Al or Fe salt compound.
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However, what we MAY be seeing is different sludges based on different oils used. Some cleaners MAY clean sludge formed by Dino oil, other cleaners may clean sludge formed by mix of Antifreeze and synthetic oils, etc... This however has nothing to do with Al vs Fe engine
 
I have a 6g72 v6 3 litre with a oil leak from the rear packing on one of the heads. I just changed the rocker cover gasket thinking it was the rocker cover gasket, but there still is a leak coming from the circular packing (as it is described in the 6G72 online manual).

My question is can I easily replace this by removing the rocker cover (again) and lossening the 2 rear cam shaft juornal retaining bolts and then withdrawing/replacing the circular packing (it is about 50mm in diameter). Or do I need to knock it in with a drift. Obviously if I need to press it in, i imagine this would be pretty hard to do with the motor / head in the car.

Any suggestions / afdvice greatly appreciated.
 
You drive them out gently with a hammer. The trick is to install new ones with a bead of hi temp gasket sealant.The valve cover gaskets and these cam end seals come in a Fel-pro kit.
 
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