inner tie rod rool, which do you prefer?

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imo, the nice thing about #3 is that if the inner and outer are seized together and you plan on replacing both, it can be applied without a problem.
 
Originally Posted By: cutter
imo, the nice thing about #3 is that if the inner and outer are seized together and you plan on replacing both, it can be applied without a problem.
yes but how offend do you replace both at the same time lol
 
I've used #1 on a Buick Century before and it worked great with one of the adapters.

For my Audi, I bought the specific 38mm crow's foot so I can remove the whole tie rod and get really good measurments so I don't have to pay for an alignment afterwards. It cost $16 versus a $69 alignment. #3 would probably accomplish the same thing, although I've never seen one like that.
 
I have a #2 and it works well, but you really do have to hold the rack from turning while removing and installing he inner rod end. Most racks have a flat on them that allows you to use an open end wrench to prevent twisting. On my Sienna I had to saw down a cheap 24mm wrench but it worked.

#1 and #2 allow you to use a torque wrench without any additional calcuations or hassle.
 
Originally Posted By: kschachn


#1 and #2 allow you to use a torque wrench without any additional calcuations or hassle.


They all allow torque wrenches to be used (with socket extensions). Except one only costs 18$ and doesn't come in a 4 to 10 piece case.
 
Well sure, but since the attachment point for the wrench is offset from the axis of rotation you should compensate. But that isn't much and maybe it doesn't matter, IDK.

Originally Posted By: cutter
Originally Posted By: kschachn


#1 and #2 allow you to use a torque wrench without any additional calcuations or hassle.


They all allow torque wrenches to be used (with socket extensions). Except one only costs 18$ and doesn't come in a 4 to 10 piece case.
 
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