Back in the olden days there was a product called Top Engine Cleaner. I think you can still get some if you want it. It is to be used in the same manner as the "water drip method" but uses more appropriate chemicals, so they say. I don't know enough to say for sure that's true. It works and involves maybe 10 minutes of work time and a whole lot more time doing something else (pretending to get on with your day during the soak) while you anxiously wait for the miracle to happen. It may not be the absolute best, but it will decarbonize.
removing carbon deposits on 156,000 mile engine
- Thread starter cathy
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Back in the olden days there was a product called Top Engine Cleaner. I think you can still get some if you want it. It is to be used in the same manner as the "water drip method" but uses more appropriate chemicals, so they say. I don't know enough to say for sure that's true. It works and involves maybe 10 minutes of work time and a whole lot more time doing something else (pretending to get on with your day during the soak) while you anxiously wait for the miracle to happen. It may not be the absolute best, but it will decarbonize.
GM used to sell "Top Engine Cleaner", came in a metal can and worked wonders. That may be what you're referring to. I think it was available until around 2001. It is sold under a different name now.
Back in the olden days there was a product called Top Engine Cleaner. I think you can still get some if you want it. It is to be used in the same manner as the "water drip method" but uses more appropriate chemicals, so they say. I don't know enough to say for sure that's true. It works and involves maybe 10 minutes of work time and a whole lot more time doing something else (pretending to get on with your day during the soak) while you anxiously wait for the miracle to happen. It may not be the absolute best, but it will decarbonize.
GM used to sell "Top Engine Cleaner", came in a metal can and worked wonders. That may be what you're referring to. I think it was available until around 2001. It is sold under a different name now.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Back in the olden days there was a product called Top Engine Cleaner. I think you can still get some if you want it. It is to be used in the same manner as the "water drip method" but uses more appropriate chemicals, so they say. I don't know enough to say for sure that's true. It works and involves maybe 10 minutes of work time and a whole lot more time doing something else (pretending to get on with your day during the soak) while you anxiously wait for the miracle to happen. It may not be the absolute best, but it will decarbonize.
GM used to sell "Top Engine Cleaner", came in a metal can and worked wonders. That may be what you're referring to. I think it was available until around 2001. It is sold under a different name now.
The aerosol TEC cleaner from GM is 1052626 - UPPER ENGINE CLEANER. Another product although likely not catalyst friendly is Mercury Marine Power Tune engine cleaner.
Originally Posted By: yonyon
Back in the olden days there was a product called Top Engine Cleaner. I think you can still get some if you want it. It is to be used in the same manner as the "water drip method" but uses more appropriate chemicals, so they say. I don't know enough to say for sure that's true. It works and involves maybe 10 minutes of work time and a whole lot more time doing something else (pretending to get on with your day during the soak) while you anxiously wait for the miracle to happen. It may not be the absolute best, but it will decarbonize.
GM used to sell "Top Engine Cleaner", came in a metal can and worked wonders. That may be what you're referring to. I think it was available until around 2001. It is sold under a different name now.
The aerosol TEC cleaner from GM is 1052626 - UPPER ENGINE CLEANER. Another product although likely not catalyst friendly is Mercury Marine Power Tune engine cleaner.
If you truly have verified that you have excessive carbon deposits a simple dose of kreen in the fuel quickly removes them.
We run several GMC V8's that have audible knock when the get carboned up. Sounds pretty much exactly like piston slap, just a slight bit different.We fix them now with just one dose of kreen, quick and easy.
I do not like introducing ANYTHING liquid into a dry intake on a modern fuel injected engine, as any puddling can be catastrophic!
We run several GMC V8's that have audible knock when the get carboned up. Sounds pretty much exactly like piston slap, just a slight bit different.We fix them now with just one dose of kreen, quick and easy.
I do not like introducing ANYTHING liquid into a dry intake on a modern fuel injected engine, as any puddling can be catastrophic!
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
If you truly have verified that you have excessive carbon deposits a simple dose of kreen in the fuel quickly removes them.
We run several GMC V8's that have audible knock when the get carboned up. Sounds pretty much exactly like piston slap, just a slight bit different.We fix them now with just one dose of kreen, quick and easy.
I do not like introducing ANYTHING liquid into a dry intake on a modern fuel injected engine, as any puddling can be catastrophic!
I'm gonna have to try that Kreen. My Sierra Denali with the 6.0L gets carbon cleaned every 20k miles or so and I've been using Seafoam or strong cleaners at the fuel rail (I rotate). If kreen will do the same thing, I'll do that and be safer.
If you truly have verified that you have excessive carbon deposits a simple dose of kreen in the fuel quickly removes them.
We run several GMC V8's that have audible knock when the get carboned up. Sounds pretty much exactly like piston slap, just a slight bit different.We fix them now with just one dose of kreen, quick and easy.
I do not like introducing ANYTHING liquid into a dry intake on a modern fuel injected engine, as any puddling can be catastrophic!
I'm gonna have to try that Kreen. My Sierra Denali with the 6.0L gets carbon cleaned every 20k miles or so and I've been using Seafoam or strong cleaners at the fuel rail (I rotate). If kreen will do the same thing, I'll do that and be safer.
It may not be carbon deposit. I'd change O2 sensor if it is already 150k just to keep it fresh, and spray soapy water around exhaust to check for potential cracked manifold and leaky gasket.
If you want to feel comfortable try a bottle of Gumout Regane or Chevron Techron. I'd not seafoam or steam / water clean just yet. My experience is new O2 sensor (front of Cat converter) usually will fix all borderline emission issue. You can also do new plugs and wires if it wasn't changed regularly.
The suggestion to clean the IACV and MAP/MAF sensor is also good. However my experience is you'll notice lots of idle shaking if they are not in good condition.
If you want to feel comfortable try a bottle of Gumout Regane or Chevron Techron. I'd not seafoam or steam / water clean just yet. My experience is new O2 sensor (front of Cat converter) usually will fix all borderline emission issue. You can also do new plugs and wires if it wasn't changed regularly.
The suggestion to clean the IACV and MAP/MAF sensor is also good. However my experience is you'll notice lots of idle shaking if they are not in good condition.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Seafoam through the intake manifold
Techron Fuel System Cleaner in the gas
TB cleaner on the TB
You can also substitute hot water for Seafoam and feed it slowly via a needle used to fill a football through a vacuum line on the engine. The brake booster works well for this. Care must be taken not to hydro-lock the engine. That's true for any liquid fed via a vacuum line.
Yes, this works surprisingly well. A shame more don't try it instead of seafoam.
I'll admit I used seafoam in one particular vehicle through the brake booster, and it didn't do much. 16 ounces of water and the same "Rover" had so freaking much pep, and could actually climb hills without having to rev the sh!t out of the engine when downshifting. Seafoam is quite expensive. Tap water of the same amount $0.000000034
Originally Posted By: randomhero439
Seafoam through the intake manifold
Techron Fuel System Cleaner in the gas
TB cleaner on the TB
You can also substitute hot water for Seafoam and feed it slowly via a needle used to fill a football through a vacuum line on the engine. The brake booster works well for this. Care must be taken not to hydro-lock the engine. That's true for any liquid fed via a vacuum line.
Yes, this works surprisingly well. A shame more don't try it instead of seafoam.
I'll admit I used seafoam in one particular vehicle through the brake booster, and it didn't do much. 16 ounces of water and the same "Rover" had so freaking much pep, and could actually climb hills without having to rev the sh!t out of the engine when downshifting. Seafoam is quite expensive. Tap water of the same amount $0.000000034
I wonder if you should use distilled water?
The reason I say this is figuring that you will create quick evaporation of the water, it might leave behind its own deposits like minerals, ect....wrong?
The reason I say this is figuring that you will create quick evaporation of the water, it might leave behind its own deposits like minerals, ect....wrong?
Originally Posted By: antiqueshell
I wonder if you should use distilled water?
The reason I say this is figuring that you will create quick evaporation of the water, it might leave behind its own deposits like minerals, ect....wrong?
In theory regular combustion of gasoline while driving has enough flow and water by product to wash out the mineral build up.
I wonder if you should use distilled water?
The reason I say this is figuring that you will create quick evaporation of the water, it might leave behind its own deposits like minerals, ect....wrong?
In theory regular combustion of gasoline while driving has enough flow and water by product to wash out the mineral build up.
Just keep driving it, no need to try to fix it until it breaks.
I have done the water trick for years--- dad taught me how back in the early 80s.
I think it's probably just as effective as seafoam down the gullet.
BUT-- with DBW throttles I'm not sure how to do it---- because you can't pour with the right, and gas it with the left on the throttle plate, to keep it running. you'd have to use small, small quantities of [liquid of choice] to keep from stalling.
I think it's probably just as effective as seafoam down the gullet.
BUT-- with DBW throttles I'm not sure how to do it---- because you can't pour with the right, and gas it with the left on the throttle plate, to keep it running. you'd have to use small, small quantities of [liquid of choice] to keep from stalling.
Originally Posted By: meep
BUT-- with DBW throttles I'm not sure how to do it---- because you can't pour with the right, and gas it with the left on the throttle plate, to keep it running. you'd have to use small, small quantities of [liquid of choice] to keep from stalling.
If you really wanted to you could use a stick. That or you could try and find a second person to operate the accelerator control from the driver's seat.
BUT-- with DBW throttles I'm not sure how to do it---- because you can't pour with the right, and gas it with the left on the throttle plate, to keep it running. you'd have to use small, small quantities of [liquid of choice] to keep from stalling.
If you really wanted to you could use a stick. That or you could try and find a second person to operate the accelerator control from the driver's seat.
Originally Posted By: meep
I have done the water trick for years--- dad taught me how back in the early 80s.
I think it's probably just as effective as seafoam down the gullet.
BUT-- with DBW throttles I'm not sure how to do it---- because you can't pour with the right, and gas it with the left on the throttle plate, to keep it running. you'd have to use small, small quantities of [liquid of choice] to keep from stalling.
I was working on a system to test on my Tacoma to later use on a Land Rover.
(two bottles of water worked much better than the initial two cans of seafoam and solved a very NASTY rough idle on the Rover.
I was planning on one of my usual 700+ miles trips with this just to see what happened.
Besides keeping things cool...
I would t-tap into a vacuum line, run a line from the T into the cab. Use a self tapping valve to control water flow into the vacuum line from the 5 gallon Poland Spring cooler bottle so I could fine-tune the amount being delivered. It would be easier with two of me to drive and control the valve based on RPM's.
Sort or like the Ampco/MMO oilers, but with water and a dose of MMO for lube/rust.
A cheaper version of this http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/water-injection-systems Had all the parts for about $12. Never got around to it though.
I have done the water trick for years--- dad taught me how back in the early 80s.
I think it's probably just as effective as seafoam down the gullet.
BUT-- with DBW throttles I'm not sure how to do it---- because you can't pour with the right, and gas it with the left on the throttle plate, to keep it running. you'd have to use small, small quantities of [liquid of choice] to keep from stalling.
I was working on a system to test on my Tacoma to later use on a Land Rover.
(two bottles of water worked much better than the initial two cans of seafoam and solved a very NASTY rough idle on the Rover.
I was planning on one of my usual 700+ miles trips with this just to see what happened.
Besides keeping things cool...
I would t-tap into a vacuum line, run a line from the T into the cab. Use a self tapping valve to control water flow into the vacuum line from the 5 gallon Poland Spring cooler bottle so I could fine-tune the amount being delivered. It would be easier with two of me to drive and control the valve based on RPM's.
Sort or like the Ampco/MMO oilers, but with water and a dose of MMO for lube/rust.
A cheaper version of this http://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/water-injection-systems Had all the parts for about $12. Never got around to it though.
Just get a long enough hose so that you can sit in the driver's seat and feed it (whatever, Seafoam or water) while controlling the accelerator. You could even do this while driving if you can get a passenger to do the feeding while you are driving.
I did this in my driveway and used Seafoam as the fluid. I can't honestly say if it helped or not. Objectively, my vacuum reading did not improve.
I did this in my driveway and used Seafoam as the fluid. I can't honestly say if it helped or not. Objectively, my vacuum reading did not improve.
- Status
