You and your friends said it not me. 15-40 is not in any way ideal. you mentioned even colder conditions, proves my point
Comparing 10W40 oils.
- Thread starter aquariuscsm
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oh so now yall are suggesting syn 0-5 weights. my opinon to begin with. you make no sense. i say something is not ideal, you two sa it is, but than suggest something else
There is nothing wrong with 10W40 in his climate.
You win Zaedock. Sorry, I can have some strong opinions sometimes. In the end your probally right, as my own personal Frankenbrew equals out to a solid 10w-40.
It's not about winning or losing man!
I know the guy and his car. He runs 20W50 in summer and his car would beat down a 30wt in his location.
I know the guy and his car. He runs 20W50 in summer and his car would beat down a 30wt in his location.
I'd choose the Valvoline because I trust it and it smells WAY better than Castrol.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
I'd choose the Valvoline....
If I had to choose only from his list, I'd probably choose the MaxLife. But, you already knew that and probably would choose the same.
I'd choose the Valvoline....
If I had to choose only from his list, I'd probably choose the MaxLife. But, you already knew that and probably would choose the same.
Originally Posted By: fauxchemist
oh so now yall are suggesting syn 0-5 weights. my opinon to begin with. you make no sense. i say something is not ideal, you two sa it is, but than suggest something else
I never said any of them were "ideal." I'm not in a position to say what's optimal for his vehicle. I've only got a rough idea as to what the manual might recommend and I know what the OP runs. If one is very concerned about cold starts (even room temperature starts) on a 10w-xx or 15w-xx or 20w-xx oil, synthetics in 5w-xx and 0w-xx are simply good options, especially if one extends one's OCI.
If I'm not shy about running 10w-xx oils in Saskatchewan winters for many years and many miles in vehicles of the vintage of the OP's and older, there's no reason to worry about a 10w-xx or 15w-xx in southern Texas. With the old Audi, I ran 15w-40 in the summer and 10w-30 or lighter in the winter, when I ran conventional. When I ran synthetic, I just ran 5w-40 or 0w-40 all year, saving me a seasonal oil change.
There's no perfect answer. If there were, this board wouldn't be here and there would be a bunch of FAQs in its place.
oh so now yall are suggesting syn 0-5 weights. my opinon to begin with. you make no sense. i say something is not ideal, you two sa it is, but than suggest something else
I never said any of them were "ideal." I'm not in a position to say what's optimal for his vehicle. I've only got a rough idea as to what the manual might recommend and I know what the OP runs. If one is very concerned about cold starts (even room temperature starts) on a 10w-xx or 15w-xx or 20w-xx oil, synthetics in 5w-xx and 0w-xx are simply good options, especially if one extends one's OCI.
If I'm not shy about running 10w-xx oils in Saskatchewan winters for many years and many miles in vehicles of the vintage of the OP's and older, there's no reason to worry about a 10w-xx or 15w-xx in southern Texas. With the old Audi, I ran 15w-40 in the summer and 10w-30 or lighter in the winter, when I ran conventional. When I ran synthetic, I just ran 5w-40 or 0w-40 all year, saving me a seasonal oil change.
There's no perfect answer. If there were, this board wouldn't be here and there would be a bunch of FAQs in its place.
I'd use Maxlife in either the lime or cherry flavor.
SN Maxlife appears to be one of Valvoline's stronger oils, at least based on my UOA of it compared with my UOA of Synpower, and the Synpower was run only 1K longer in what should have been a less demanding application.
It works really well in my BMW, so it is a known quantity to me.
SN Maxlife appears to be one of Valvoline's stronger oils, at least based on my UOA of it compared with my UOA of Synpower, and the Synpower was run only 1K longer in what should have been a less demanding application.
It works really well in my BMW, so it is a known quantity to me.
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I want to thank everyone involed in this discussion. I do have another question,is Maxlife much different than Durablend? I've decided to stick with my tried and true 50 weight. Having been around Nissan Z's most of my life,that's just what they like for some reason. I've personally known several people who've either spun bearings or blown motors using 30 weights in these cars. My uoa on RP 20w50 showed absolutely no wear metals whatsoever. VG30DE engines don't reach their power till you hit 3500rpm,and they just feel *healthier* per se on heavier oils. I typically cruise the interstate at a sustained 80mph.
Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Let's all stuff our faces!
Happy Thanksgiving everyone! Let's all stuff our faces!
"Oil is cheap compares with gasoline. For 6k OCI the cost of conventional oil and mid-range oil filter is only $25 for 5 quart sump. That same car can use 200 gallons of gas (average 30 MPG) and at $4/gal the cost of gas is $800. Cost of oil +filter is less than 5% cost of gasoline."
You can't make this comparison - one liquid is for lubrication and the other is for generating energy in two completely different systems. You are comparing apples with rocks - sure they are both spherical, natural, and carbon based but that is it.
You can't make this comparison - one liquid is for lubrication and the other is for generating energy in two completely different systems. You are comparing apples with rocks - sure they are both spherical, natural, and carbon based but that is it.
I saw where he was going with it, finding some oil cost savings just for one car over the lifetime ownership isn't all that much. Let's say bumping an OCI from 4500 to 5000 miles, it's about 120 bucks over years and years, with all other things being equal. There are plenty of things you can do to a car in one single year that will save $100 bucks in fuel costs, from simply not driving it to parking on a hill, to all the hypermiler tricks and tactics.
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
I do have another question,is Maxlife much different than Durablend?
At least you have a choice. I haven't seen Durablend up here. Personally, I'd use either with confidence.
I do have another question,is Maxlife much different than Durablend?
At least you have a choice. I haven't seen Durablend up here. Personally, I'd use either with confidence.
Durablend seems hard to find anywhere, but it's essentially VWB in a syn-blend configuration. Very good stuff, but Maxlife is also a syn-blend and has a stronger add pack.
Durablend does have better cold flow properties than Maxlife though, if extreme winter use is your concern.
Durablend does have better cold flow properties than Maxlife though, if extreme winter use is your concern.
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Was Syntec at one time an ester oil?
Originally Posted By: fauxchemist
If you look at the mans question, he had enough common sense not to consider a 15w-40 oil. Any of you suggesting this tryed starting a non-deisel on 18F degree morning with 100% 15-40 in the sump? Absolutly not ideal!
18F? That happens once maybe every 5 years around here, and I'm not even in S. Texas proper. South central is more like it.
Don't know if he lives in the Valley but it's 5 hours minimum from there to here in good traffic conditions.
I used 20w50 in my E30 bimmers year round in this climate, and they only went for hundreds of thousands of miles.
If you look at the mans question, he had enough common sense not to consider a 15w-40 oil. Any of you suggesting this tryed starting a non-deisel on 18F degree morning with 100% 15-40 in the sump? Absolutly not ideal!
18F? That happens once maybe every 5 years around here, and I'm not even in S. Texas proper. South central is more like it.
Don't know if he lives in the Valley but it's 5 hours minimum from there to here in good traffic conditions.
I used 20w50 in my E30 bimmers year round in this climate, and they only went for hundreds of thousands of miles.
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Anyone remember this commercial? Is this 5W50 they`re showing??
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