Oil for a 2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD, 131,589 miles

[GearheadTool]

Bought a 2000 Volvo V70 XC AWD, with 131,589 miles on it today. T5 engine, of unknown size. Has some sludge. Im not worried about it. But I DO want to get some newer (better) oil in there.

I am prepared to order Redline 0W-30, since 1. Redline is thicker anyway (their 0W-20 is a very light 30-weight, maybe I can use that?) and 2. This is a Turbo.

You? What would you put in this amazing car with some visible sludge (hard, caked, burnt) on the filler cap? My first choice is mail order Redline 0W-30.. Sump capacity on this T5?

We got a good one, this one.

 

[bourne]

Rotella T6 5w40 gets my vote.

 

[GearheadTool]

Originally Posted By: bourne
Rotella T6 5w40 gets my vote.


Why?

 

[Hootbro]

Not meaning to sidetrack your oil question but was the timing belt change at 100K done? Your mileage is about average that a lot of Volvo owners dump their vehicles as the timing belt job is spendy to have done.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: GearheadTool
Sump capacity on this T5?

7.1 quarts with filter change if it has the optional oil cooler. 6.1 qt if it doesn't.

 

[driver123]

Those are great cars, I recently sold a V70 wagon (I'm a car salesman) I would try some therapy first, short oci's , using a good cleaning oil like pyb, and a pint of mmo for the last 1k. I would use a cheap wix or puralator classic filter. You could even try some kreen or auto rx, but again 3k oci max. Do that, and then get some GC or mobil1 0w40. Nice ride, good luck.

 

[skyship]

Don't use anything other than a Volvo recommended oil or similar. The dealer is probably using Castrol Edge 5/40, but a lot of Volvo owners in the EU use Liqui Moly Diesel Synthoil 5/40 or Synthoil 0/40 if approved for the engine type. Check the Castrol or Liqui Moly oil finder sites for more info as they will agree with the Volvo recommended oils.
If you suspect sludge but it is not serious, don't use a non standard cleaning oil, just use a good synthetic like Edge and shorter oil & filter change after first use.
I also used Liqui Moly flush that is only added just before the oil change with the engine left to idle for 15 minutes and that is a safe product, but anything you drive around with is risky.
If you want to use a cheaper oil, Castrol Magnetec 10/40 is also used by Volvo dealers in the EU for older engines and has an excellent reputation.

 

[MBS500]

It is a $2k car right? And you want to dump redline in it? I would say use whatever 10w40 oil is on sale(Or 5w-30, 10w-30 FAR or near FAR)+add some MMO(Or kreen) towards the end of OCI. Stay with short ocis for a while. Drive it till wheels fall of and save some money towards new Volvo

 

[ueberooo]

any decent 5w30 semi synth will do well. my pref is for conoco kendall stuff, because it's has an excellent additive package, is convenient (any firestone), and cheap. sis uses same in her v70 turbo; it does well.

m1 has a 0w30; i'd put that in there for a NE winter, but you might check with your manual. 5w40 rotella also sounds good. all good options; take your pick. i would avoid 5w20 for that turbo; it seems just wrong even if you think it's like a slightly thinner 30w.

 

[GearheadTool]

I take it all xW-20 weights are out, since the T5 is a turbo?

What about the Redline 0W-20, which is really a very thin 30 weight? Too thin? Should I get their 0W-30 and call it a day? Or half 0W-20 and half 0W-30, Redline? (5k OCIs..)

 

[ueberooo]

It is a turbo, and I wouldn't put any 0w20 in at all and 0w30 is the thinnest I'd even consider going.

5w30 seems perfect for the winter. 5w30 or 5w40 or 10w40 for the summer possibly, or mix of such; take a look at your oil chart in the volvo manual.

 

[Volvohead]

Firstly, I would avoid all solvent based cleaners in this engine. You cannot compromise the lubrication on this turbo with whatever cleaning regimen you undertake.

Order a box of OEM filters from FCP Groton.

While others have not had the same results, I would pass an ARX run through it, followed by one or two short OCI runs of T6 or similar synthetic HDEO.

Then you can run the 5w-30, 0w-30, 0w-40 or 5w-40 synthetic of your desire, at 5k OCIs. There is nothing wrong with T6 in this year-round, provided it doesn't get too cold. Especially if it has any consumption issue, the T6 will keep it in check.

I'll say it again, you don't run a 20 in these.

You don't need RL or other caviar grade oils in this engine. A big waste of money. If this is the one you were showing in the other thread, you should conserve your resources for other things it's going to need.

I'm frankly surprised that you bought a sludged turbo white block. I hope you got a terrific price.

 

[Sam_Julier]

I agree with Volvohead and would avoid any cleaners. Just let the oil do it for you.

If I had your car I'd run RL 0W-30 for 5K and change the filter half way. Repeat based on UOA.

I have run RL for 22K this year in a 2.4L NA that previously had dealer bulk oil changes for the first 33K. Varnish on the splash screen is gone, mileage has increased, and the motor is noticeably smoother. The first UOA at 6,300 showed low TBN, which I believe was due to the cleaning up after the bulk oil (the oil was really dark). I anticipate a higher TBN on the next UOA.

I'm very pleased with the high VI RL 0w-30, despite the cost $60 USD cost.

 

[bodeh6]

Mobil 1 HM 5W-30.