Reloading, is it sooo complicated?

[Silver02ex]

Originally Posted By: supton

Once nice thing about revolver rounds is not having to trim. I don't know about 40, but that is likely the only extra step.


Just about all stright wall casing you don't have to trim. This is one of the reason I hate reloading my 223's. It's still cheaper than buying factory rounds.

 

[supton]

I wasn't sure about 40, where it is a bit higher pressure. From what I've read about 45acp it's not required. I've also heard of reloading 45's until the headstamping dissappears! That's a long case life.

 

[jjjxlr8]

Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
Originally Posted By: Silver02ex
I think you misunderstood what i'm trying to say. Per round of ammo over factory around I definately save more money. However I buy all my stuff in bulk 4K-5K of components at a time, I'll make a few hundred rounds here and there, and shoot them all quick. Then I have to buy even more stuff. I didn't shoot as often before I reaload. I find that evern since I started reloading i've been spending a lot more money buying more and more stuff. That's why I say you don't really save the money you have but spend as much if not more. If you set your goal to shooting 100 rounds per week, and it didn't matter if it's reaload, or factory, then you will save. However I shoot a lot more now that I reload, which means I don't really save.

This may be true if you did not shoot at all, but round for round (loaded versus factory) it is cheaper and it keeps getting cheaper each time you reload the case up to the limit that you can reload it.

So not sure that you have a logical argument about savings here--if you shoot more, of course you will spend more, BUT you will spend even more if you do not reload.

For example, assume that you are going to shoot 1000 rounds of .223 ammo:

1000 rounds of factory ammo = $430

1000 rounds of OFB = $67
1000 Federal SRP = $26
1000 50gr bullets = $118
5# powder = $90

TOTAL = $301
NEXT/SUBSEQUENT RELOAD (No brass needed) = $234




Your forgot to add in the value of your time spent reloading!

You should reload for other reasons than ecomomy, IMO.

 

[Ursae_Majoris]

I have reloaded the same 40 S&W brass 5-6 times, before I started seeing some cases split at the mouth, most went way past 6 times. I load at 95% of the manual. That's for a Glock with the factory unsupported barrel at 6 o'clock.
Never had a bulge/smiley face, never had to trim cases.

Loaded 454 Casull at 100% loads, 45 Colt at 125%+, never had to trim cases.

Types of powder matter too. If you load with quick spiking powders like Bullsey, you'll have higher pressures, shorter case life.

 

[Shannow]

Originally Posted By: 2010_FX4
For example, assume that you are going to shoot 1000 rounds of .223 ammo:

1000 rounds of factory ammo = $430

1000 rounds of OFB = $67
1000 Federal SRP = $26
1000 50gr bullets = $118
5# powder = $90

TOTAL = $301
NEXT/SUBSEQUENT RELOAD (No brass needed) = $234


Try down here.

1000 rounds of American Eagle - $800

1000 60 gr V-Max - $300
4lb of ADI 2206 powder (they make Varget ADI2208, but use more) - $144
1000 Winchester SRP about $80 (RWS $30)
Free range brass, ADI, better weight distribution than any commercial stuff I've bought, but must be trimmed after being ripped out of the breech of a minimi.

First 1,000 I've paid for the press and full length dies. Next 1,000, and I've bought the neck sizing die and case trimmer, and now have change.

After a half dozen loads (haven't got there yet), make $7/lb on the brass.

Sub MOA, for less than American Eagle Prices. (Don't get me wrong, American Eagle shoots well in my CZ 527)

 

[CarbonSteel]

Originally Posted By: jjjxlr8
Your forgot to add in the value of your time spent reloading!
You should reload for other reasons than ecomomy, IMO.

True; accuracy is the main reason that I reload, hence 5 shots at 200 yards:

However, economy is number two (especially when shooting as we do on a prairie dog hunt) and my time is spent with either brothers or sons and so it is time well spent (both reloading and shooting).

 

[Shannow]

IMO, I don't trust the "time is money" when not at work is a bunk argument, particularly with hobbies.

(Not a hobby, but) I can get my lawn mowed for 1/3 of my hourly rate, that means an extra 30 minutes working before I can retire, or a poofteenth less retirement.

And with reloading, you can choose your pace. .44Mag, lee powder scoops. .223 weigh every load are my preferences.

I'll gladly pay my son to mow the grass when he can, because that's a different argument.

 

[supton]

I kinda like reloading. It's one more reason to be in my "man-cave" (aka the basement); it's also one more "do it yourself" things that I can do.

I don't want to confuse reloading with being only something that men can do; but somehow it strikes me as more "manly" than buying a box of ammo. You go into Walmart, buy a box of 22's: "Are these for a pistol, or for a rifle?" Uh, does it really matter? You go into a gun shop and buy some components: "You huntin' bear this week?" Uh, these are wadcutters--I'm just hoping to keep 'em on paper this week...

I dunno. It involves using tools, making measurements, and being involved in a hobby to that much more of a degree.

 

[Oil_Can_Harry]

Not complicated at all. Common sense and ability to read and follow directions are the biggest skills you will need. You will be dealing with fast burning smokeless powders so utmost care is needed. A press, dies, a good reloading scale and set of calipers are mandatory. It will become apparent very quickly that minute change in powder charges will have dramatic effects on pressures in handgun reloading. Small case capacity of pistol cases and fast powders having biggest effects. Read your manual carefully and take care when measuring charges and assembling your ammo and you will be fine.

Again, not to scare you, but to stress it is very important to be careful as you will be doing the QC checks on your ammunition. Being off a few tenths of a grain or substituting a magnum primer for a standard primer can get you into trouble. Some calibers have have large volume cases and only need small quantities of powder. Be careful not to double charge those cases. This is particularly a problem with older revolver rounds like the .38 special, .44 special and .45 long colt.

With ammo for autoloaders, bullet shape can affect reliability. Most modern guns come factory throated, but cartridge overall length for some bullets are critical or the rounds won't feed. You can be within SAAMI specs and have problems unless your cartridges are withing specs for the particular bullet you are using.

A lot of what i have mentioned and more will be found in reloading manuals. I personally like Speer's manual, but have found other manuals useful.

Good luck and and have fun in what can be a very rewarding and enjoyable hobby.

 

[dradave]

+1 on the Lee Classic Turret press. I started with one over two years ago and still use it to load .32 H&R mag, .45 Colt and .223/5.56. I wouldn't give it up for another.

That said, I bought a Hornady LnL progressive about a year ago for my bulk loading of 9mm and .45 ACP which I shoot a lot.

Loading is very rewarding and I can save about 33% - 66% over commercial loads. In fact, I just finished up 200 rounds of .45 Colt at 8.58 per box of 50. In my local fun shop, a box of 50 commercial .45 Colt would be about 30$ a box.

A great web site to visit and learn about reloading:

http://www.ultimatereloader.com

Take care and be safe,

 

[BBDartCA]

The Lee Classic Turret with Lee Safety Feed Primer and Lee Pro Auto Disk powder measure (be sure to get the adapter to provide clearance with the powder measure) is a great set up for the average handgun shooter (500 rounds a weekend volume). You can probably get away with a Lee 3-die set for 40 to save some money (versus 4 die set which has the crimp die). Get the 4 die set for 357. Since there is a little complication is setting up the Turret, things for a beginner can go smoother if you start hand feeding the primers and powers first. Once you have the basics figured out, then start working with the primer feeder and setting up the powder measure.

If you really want to go cheap, get the Lee single stage press http://leeprecision.com/reloader-press.html and use the powder dipper that comes with the die set. But you will need to get a primer installer, which will be not used when using the turret press. Its VERY slow, but is a good way to learn the process with little investment. Other option is to go with the Lee Loader kit that uses a hammer instead of a press - very, very slow for high volume handgun rounds.

Powder, start with Power Pistol for both. One of the best I've used for 40, and I've found to work very well with 125 & 158g FMJ 357. Accurate #7 works well for both as well. For a beginner, its safer / cheaper to have one powder.

Buy a Loadbook for 357 & 40 http://www.loadbooks.com/ Probably the best single resource for load data from most of the powder & projectile manufactures.

Things will be easier on you if you start with FMJ bullets - lots more load info out there. If you go with the cheaper copper plated (Berry's, Rainier) you might not find much load data.

Most important thing with handloading is to be focused on the process to avoid disastrous things like double charges, no charges, wrong powder being used, wrong components being used. etc.

If you do not like handloading, you can probably sell everything on Craigs for what you paid for it.

 

[Loobed]

It is fairly easy to reload. The main thing you have to watch is Powder weight and bullet seat depth. Alter these two and you can have trouble. Accuracy is usually achieved with lower powered loads.

 

[Jim 5]

What is a decent "buy once, cry once" reloading machine for someone who has nothing? I'd like to buy mid-range leupold (if you'll let me use the scope analogy) of presses.

I would be reloading for rifles.

 

[troyh]

Many of my friends like Dillon presses and swear by them. I have two Hornadys, one a single stage press and the other a Lock and Load progressive. Whenever I have had a problem a simple call to Hornady was all it took. They stand behind their products and bend over backwards to help. I cannot see any better customer service from any company. Over the years I have only had 2 problems, but were solved effectively and immediately from Hornady. Last time I called with a problem with the powder dispenser, asked what caliber I was reloading, and they ended up sending me a whole new powder assembly along with about 6 boxes of bullets of caliber I was reloading at the time (7 Rem Mag)in various styles.

I would recommend the press and the company.

However, I am not too fond of Hornady dies. I prefer RCBS dies mostly, or if feeling spendy when getting a new caliber I like the Redding dies. I get the better carbide ones.

A good friend of mine likes Lee dies. They are as cheap as they get but very good, and often wonder if I should have just went that way to save $$.

Reloading is pretty simple and straightforward. Enjoyable and time consuming. I enjoy because gives me some quiet me time.

Two most important things I have learned... 1) Do not get distracted when reloading. 2) Invest in a powder cop die if using a progressive.

 

[troyh]

Originally Posted By: Jim 5
What is a decent "buy once, cry once" reloading machine for someone who has nothing? I'd like to buy mid-range leupold (if you'll let me use the scope analogy) of presses.

I would be reloading for rifles.


I would recommend the Hornady presses. Like mentioned in earlier post, and excellent press. For me, as with any company or business, you see what they are made of if you have a problem.

If you are reloading for rifles (as I do as well) you may want to consider a single stage press which is pretty inexpensive. Easier to learn on, and the output may suit your needs. Higher volume shooting you may want to work up to a progressive, but better to learn on the single stage first.

Others like Dillon, but I cannot personally comment on those one way or another. I know they are very popular, if not the most popular. I also know it ends up costing more $$ as well as you have to change some heads or plates with each caliber.

 

[supton]

I had the Lee Handpress (well, still do) and it works "well enough". I finally got their cheapest C press, and it too is good enough for the 38's that I run. I hear about them flexing on rifle rounds, so I'm not sure if I'd attempt 223 on it. But I've been pleased. I figure, if I wear it out, I'm not out very much at all. And since I don't shoot that much, it's unlikely I will wear it out that fast.

 

[Pablo]

The main money savings from reloading comes from re-using brass obviously. New brass prices are just insane.

 

[Jim 5]

Originally Posted By: Pablo
The main money savings from reloading comes from re-using brass obviously. New brass prices are just insane.


It is crazy. I've been saving my once-fired factory winchester .308 win brass for the day I will start reloading. I've heard the winchester cartridges have decent brass for reloading.

 

[supton]

Try hitting up various gun stores. One of the shops I goes to has a seconds table, mostly junk, but there is once-fired brass. Sometimes there is a good deal there. Midway sells once-fired brass too.

 

[Tempest]

Originally Posted By: Jim 5
What is a decent "buy once, cry once" reloading machine for someone who has nothing? I'd like to buy mid-range leupold (if you'll let me use the scope analogy) of presses.

I would be reloading for rifles.


Depends on the volume and type of shooting that you do. If you are just looking for hunting or plinking ammo, then any of the progressive presses will work fine. I am very partial to Dillion. Very high quality with an unbeatable warranty.

If you are shooting benchrest, then a single stage, with separate powder measure will be your best bet. This option is a lot more work.

Either way, you will need a case trimmer and luber for loading rifle rounds.