Kreen Update

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Originally Posted By: cutter
I submitted a form and they haven't gotten back to me, even included CC info. What gives?


I got a reciept in the mail about a week after I received my Kreen. Had to call to verify my order as well as there was no notification they received it or were processing it. Bit of an irritant.
 
Originally Posted By: Russell
Originally Posted By: cutter
I submitted a form and they haven't gotten back to me, even included CC info. What gives?


I got a reciept in the mail about a week after I received my Kreen. Had to call to verify my order as well as there was no notification they received it or were processing it. Bit of an irritant.


Been discussed on here repeatedly. They are not selling direct to retail customers, its old school business to business. That means no fancy websites, instant confirmations, chat screens, customer service reps, etc. Somewhere theres a lady with bifoculs processing orders to the shipping dock. At some point you get a net 30 reciept.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
But does he have before pictures? I am really interested in objective A/B comparison whether it is visual/aural/butt at least something concrete than just the "feel"


Last nights drain - no pics. I tried. My phone has no flash and the apt garage has motion sensor lights. Every 3 mins its flashlight power.

FWIW heres some butt dino and observations I will attempt to leave objective.

Car was neglected for the 1st 100k, so at 203k it has a few ticks/valve noises. After adding the 1/2 qt the ticking slowly diminished until I cant hear it over the course of the first week. After the drain last night, and continuing today I still cant hear a single tick that was normal for the car. Now I can hear the ball bearing in the PCV valve which was drown out before.

I did not see any striking difference on the oil baffle, looks roughly as it did before the Kreen, a little varnished. There is not much oil flow up there at all, mostly vapor.

It drained like people describe, fast, on the thin side. Unusual color compared to repeated drains with the same oil on this engine (M1). Best way to describe it was the color of a dark brown wood stain or varnish. Usually its a tan color.

No smell on drain. I was concerned about that. During the first couple of days I opened the filler and it stunk terrible. Clearly that had evaporated.

The oil filter connector thingy looked good, I wiped it with a rag. It cleaned up, so there was nothing stuck to the metal, just more of that strange colored oil.

After refill I was bummed out. After a quick start I checked the fill level and the oil already had that brown color to it. Anyone that uses M1 knows how clear it is initially. And I let it drain 40 minutes jacked in front, the best angle for the pan in that car. I should have tried a rinse? Reminds me of when I first switched to synthetic, the second oil change was dark the minute I started the engine.

Further inspection showed the "weeps" I have in a couple of spots (oil pan, valve cover) were worse, but not enough to drip. They had been stable for 40k. I cleaned it up, will see what happens.

I still have the filter, and left some of the oil in it, want to see that outside in the light when I get home.

so as far as the butt dino, cant tell by looking at the engine other than some strange looking dark oil. The ticking? Only if it stays gone. I could put MMO in there and it would be quiet till I changed the oil but nothing permanent. Same goes for seafoam. They both go away after a tankful, after an OC. If the ticking remains gone now that I changed the oil thats important. Right now its too early to tell.

Is it great? Best ever? Inconclusive. If the ticking stays gone for this entire OC it definitely cleaned/did something that the others could not.
 
Leaky....

I used two treatments of Kreen and the right after the OCI's the oil gets dark. Mine came out the color of dark espresso on the first run with Kreen....on the second run and drain of Kreen....it came out a light brown....as I watched it drain from the sump there were not particles large enough to be seen.....it was like looking through brown sunglasses.

IMO.....any residual Kreen in the sump continues to work with the fresh oil so I have no worries. The Kreen most likely loosend and removed a lot of dirt in the first treatment. Most likely the second treatment, in my case, it started to work on any varnish in the engine.

I'm now running my blend of Dino Diesel and Synthetic and will let this blended mix work on any remaining dirt. The Dino Diesel has great detergents that will hold any dirt in suspension.

IMO...it's all gravy from here on out after the two Kreen treatments....just change the oil at a reasonable OCI and don't use any bulk oil from quick lube places.
 
Quote:
Best way to describe it was the color of a dark brown wood stain or varnish

Yes i had this on one of the engines i used it on, the oil looked like chocolate milk!
I was a little concerned there was coolant in the oil but the oil level was normal as was the coolant. The next oc was no where near as bad. It had a tick that has remained silent since the first day.

Today over a year later the oil remains light tan even with 3K on it. Running PU 5w30 in the engine for over a year.
 
Originally Posted By: mongo161
Hey Bigdreama....I had similar circumstances with my 97 T4R. My truck runs like a top and has seen a lifetime of mostly Conventional Dino oils and a blend of Dino and Synthetic for most of it's life. I've kept it in very good condition and wanted to see if the engine needed to be cleaned. My T4R does not burn any oil between OCI's and that was not a concern.


OK, I give in. You and some of the other guys have picqued my curiosity and convinced me to fix what ain't broken.
crazy2.gif


It may take a while to order, receive, pour, and discern the results but I will post my thoughts.
 
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Originally Posted By: mongo161
Hey Bigdreama....I had similar circumstances with my 97 T4R. My truck runs like a top and has seen a lifetime of mostly Conventional Dino oils and a blend of Dino and Synthetic for most of it's life. I've kept it in very good condition and wanted to see if the engine needed to be cleaned. My T4R does not burn any oil between OCI's and that was not a concern.

Since I can't see past the black baffle in the oil filler tube....I decided to run a treatment of Kreen. For my first treatment of Kreen I used 18 ounces before my OCI. I put it in the sump only for a long 1.1K mile highway run at highway speeds. I changed out the oil and filter when the engine was good and hot and the Kreen and Oil flew out of the drain pan and left nothing behind. IMO...it really did some cleaning wherever dirt or varnish was found. I'm now running my second run of Kreen in the sump with about 750 miles on the treatment. The oil appears to be much cleaner with this second treatment of Kreen and I'll leave it in until I change out the oil. IMO...it looks like the First Kreen treatment did the cleaning. I also used 12 ounces of Kreen in a full tank of gasoline and I'm sure it found something to clean by the way the engine runs at a very smooth idle. IMO...you'll never know until you try it and see the results.

How many miles on your 4Runner?
 
Thanks to this thread I decided to give Kreen a try.. The following pictures show what I will describe.
I recently purchased my car, and after changing the oil I found that the original filter had been in so long that it was falling apart, and literally was filled with chunks of sludge!
I also had leaky valve cover gaskets, so I decided to change them. And to my horror, I found TONS of sludge build up.. (see pics) So I had the covers sand blasted, and replaced them. Then Ordered Kreen.
After dosing with kreen, I ran it 250 miles and the oil turned black so fast that I immediately changed it again. (pic or two paper towels)
Now, I am going to dose the car again and run 500 miles, followed by a third dose and 1k mile change. Also, from this point on the car will only get Lubromoly 5w30 synthetic.
Thats the story so far, and I will update with more pictures when the treatment is complete..
Enjoy the pictures

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I have in laws family up in Albany. I know its still all up to individual owners how they were treated/driven, but I've heard when looking for a used car in Oregon, DO NOT get tempted by the "time capsule" cars from ~1996 with 45k miles on them. Often above pics is what you are dealing with. I guess in CA we do a lot more driving and get up to temps to burn off that stuff.
 
Update! the VVT-i toyota tick is still gone 1500 miles after dumping the Kreen!!!!!! The replacement M1 HM is dark yellow, weird. Dont care. I have a 205k toyota camry I4 nobody can hear. The VVT cam gear has silenced!!! I dont have to rip open the valve cover and look, anyone w/a vvt knows what I mean. Thrilled!! ordered the gallon to make a small does part of a regimen!
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Update! the VVT-i toyota tick is still gone 1500 miles after dumping the Kreen!!!!!! The replacement M1 HM is dark yellow, weird. Dont care. I have a 205k toyota camry I4 nobody can hear. The VVT cam gear has silenced!!! I dont have to rip open the valve cover and look, anyone w/a vvt knows what I mean. Thrilled!! ordered the gallon to make a small does part of a regimen!


Congrats...

M1 HM is a great choice for the follow up OCI...
 
Originally Posted By: LeakySeals
Update! the VVT-i toyota tick is still gone 1500 miles after dumping the Kreen!!!!!! The replacement M1 HM is dark yellow, weird. Dont care. I have a 205k toyota camry I4 nobody can hear. The VVT cam gear has silenced!!! I dont have to rip open the valve cover and look, anyone w/a vvt knows what I mean. Thrilled!! ordered the gallon to make a small does part of a regimen!


Awesome report!
 
Hi all long time lurker. Just bought my friends 01 sierra 2wd with a 4.8 with 157k. He was very neglegent with oil changes and im sure there is sludge. Was thinking of doing a kreen treatment as well as a tuneup pcv plugs fuel filter etc. As far as the kreen goes what would be a good approach? Ill prob order a gallon
 
When i spoke to Kano they said the 16oz is based on a 5qt sump.
Putting 16oz in a 3qt sump maybe overkill.
This is the reason i decided on 3oz per qt as my dosage.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
When i spoke to Kano they said the 16oz is based on a 5qt sump.
Putting 16oz in a 3qt sump maybe overkill.
This is the reason i decided on 3oz per qt as my dosage.


This x1,000!
 
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Just like the label says: 16 ounces in the oil and 16 ounces in the fuel.

Best results ever, you will be pleased.


Thats exactly what I did on the Camry.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
When i spoke to Kano they said the 16oz is based on a 5qt sump.
Putting 16oz in a 3qt sump maybe overkill.
This is the reason i decided on 3oz per qt as my dosage.

Instructions don't say 16oz to the sump and tank every oil change, its 16oz in the sump and tank every 1k. So if your oil change is 5k, thats 80oz. Now thats overkill, not sure thats even possible..
 
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