Full synthetic vs Semi synthetic?

[WillB]

Hi,

Would anyone know how much synthetic oil is blended in to semi synthetics? Is it 30%, less, or more?

Torn between Castrol Semi syn 15 w40 vs Delo 400 15w40 dino for the tractor? If no advantage to the semi, may go Delo.
Emailed an Amsoil guy on Pricing for the new OE 15W40, but no word back yet.

 

[Bluestream]

No one really knows. Most say is only 10% synthetic.

 

[dave1251]

I would not worry about it either way. If you can get Delo at a price point that is superior to Castrol go for it Delo is very hard to beat.

 

[johnachak]

Each blend is different. From what I've read, Motorcraft is probably tops at 40%. kendall is made by the same blender (Conoco- Phillips) so I must assume their blend will be in the same ballpark.

 

[97prizm]

Castrol wouldn't give me specifics but the guy on the phone said between 15 & 30% for all of their synthetic blended oil.MD

 

[Robenstein]

I have always heard that its usually 20% but some do blend higher amounts of synthetic. Of course that could just be adding hydrocracked GrpIII stock which is really still dino juice instead of Grp IV or V

 

[dnewton3]

Originally Posted By: WillB
Hi,

Would anyone know how much synthetic oil is blended in to semi synthetics? Is it 30%, less, or more?

Torn between Castrol Semi syn 15 w40 vs Delo 400 15w40 dino for the tractor? If no advantage to the semi, may go Delo.
Emailed an Amsoil guy on Pricing for the new OE 15W40, but no word back yet.




There is no hard-and-fast rule that tells us how much of the total blended package is semi-syn. But for that matter, there is no "pure" PAO on the market either; they have II, II+, or II blended in as well to help carry the additive package. The lube world is full of a wide, diverse variety of products targeted at specific markets. Actually, we could even debate the topic of what "semi-syn" even means. Does it infer that it's some PAO + II? Is it partial II and II+? Yada, yada, yada ... Most people here cannot agree on what the word "synthetic" means; why should the word "semi-synthetic" be any different?


Nearly any oil you find is going to be a "blend" of multiple components including base stocks and additive packages. Even if product "A" had more semi-syn base stock than product "R" or "V", that does not directly speak to lubricant performance, relative to your needs. I say "needs" because you haven't defined them yet, as best I can tell.

"Ontario" is a big province; hard to know what kind of temps you're seeing. Don't know much about that "tractor" you seek to fill. Know nothing of your maintenance/OCI plan ...

Read my signature line.

 

[Jim Allen]

Originally Posted By: WillB
Hi,

Would anyone know how much synthetic oil is blended in to semi synthetics? Is it 30%, less, or more?

Torn between Castrol Semi syn 15 w40 vs Delo 400 15w40 dino for the tractor? If no advantage to the semi, may go Delo.
Emailed an Amsoil guy on Pricing for the new OE 15W40, but no word back yet.



You won't get a definite answer about the blend from most companies. Usually the majority are Gp II+ with a dash of Gp III (since G-III is now a syn). The average is around 15 percent. The most noticeable thing you'll see is an improvement in the MCV and CCV (cold viscosity) specs with a semi syn. Compare the Rotella T5 10W30 with the Rotella TP 10W30, both very similar formulations, and you can see an improvement in that area.

Most likely the Amsoil OE will have the best cold-crank specs among the 15W40 brands you named but if you a sure you need a 40 grade, being in Canada, you might want to consider a 5W40 Gp III, which comes from Rotella (T6) or Chevron Delo 400at a bit over $5 (US) per quart for it's cold crank abilities.

 

[Pablo]

Originally Posted By: WillB

Emailed an Amsoil guy on Pricing for the new OE 15W40, but no word back yet.



Maybe PM Pablo. Site sponsor and supporter of BITOG.

 

[WillB]

Thanks. I am located in South Central Ontario - Innisfil. The tractor is an MF 1635 (Iseki built) Oil is changed twice per year, spring and fall, and usually put 200 hours per year on it, although this past winter is light.

Can run 15W40 during the warmer months, and usually do. Run 5W40 , Premium blue this time, during the winter.

MF calls for 10W30CF or better rated oil year round, but can go heavier by ambient temps.


Will be doing the change late April.

 

[dnewton3]

Knowing that, I'd suggest a 10w-30 year round.

Consider either T5 or one of the good Canadian brands. Very easy to get; very cost effective. A dino oil would easily suffice for the use you state. You don't "need" a semi-syn, but it migth make you feel better. And yet you won't break the bank.

 

[fxrider]

Can you get Shell Rottella T-5 10W30 semi synthetic in your neck of the woods? thats what i would use as stated.i use plain Rottella 15W40 in my John Deere 4520 all year around.

 

[Pablo]

Canadian Prices of OED 15W-40 and ACD 10W-30:

Code:


PC Each PC MSRP

OEDQTC -EA (1) 946-ml. Bottle 5.65 -.- 7.35

OEDQTC -CA (12) 946-ml. Bottles 64.20 5.35 87.00

OED1G -EA (1) 3.78-Liter Bottle 22.00 -.- 28.70

OED1G -CA (4) 3.78-Liter Bottles 83.80 20.95 113.20

OEDTP -EA (1) 9.45-Liter Bottle 53.90 -.- 69.20

OEDTP -CA (2) 9.45-Liter Bottles 102.60 51.30 136.40



ACD1G -EA (1) 3.78-Liter Bottle 29.80 -.- 3 8.65

ACD1G -CA (4) 3.78-Liter Bottles 113.40 28.35 1 53.00


Amsoil OED 15W-40 LINK

Amsoil ACD 10W-30 LINK

 

[Garak]

Geeze, Pablo, that's pretty good pricing for a synthetic HDEO up here.

 

[WillB]

Thanks guys. Will be staying full synthetic. Biggest piece of mind when the temps drop to -40c, and you need to blow snow. Compared to what an engine costs, I will spend the little extra on synthetics.m
Got prices on AMsoil OE 15W40, excellent is all that I can say.

 

[ihookem1]

A buck a qt. more will get you Amsoil HDD 5w30 . Not that I care but 15 w was hard on my little tractor in the winter. The 5w30 made it turn over much better. The 15w was not synthetic however.

 

[WillB]

That is why I run the 5W40 in the winter, and the 15W40 in the summer.

 

[dnewton3]

You do not get anywhere near "-40C" (-40F) with any regularity. You live between Barrie and Torronto. The average LOW temps for your area are +12F (-11C). Your long term statistical weather devaitions in your area will not put you anywhere near -40C on a normal basis. In fact, you do not routinely see below -20C (-4F).

Two OCIs per year is probably overkill as well. 200+ hours is reaonable on a well-maintained machine. What does your owner's manual say for OCIs? There are plenty of tractor UOAs on this site where the equipment goes 500, 600, 800 hours on dino oils. There are tractor UOAs here that span more than one year. You haven't told us about your use or severity of the tractor, other than blowing snow.

There are plenty of 10w-30 dino or semi-syns that would do a great job in your application.

Your thread is titled "Full synthetic vs. Semi synthetic?"
Are you suggesting that if you do not use synthetics, your engine is going to soon expire?
I'd say neither; but if you cannot abide by that, get an off-the-shelf Canadian semi and sleep well at night.

Some might say that I'm awfully cavalier with other people's equipment. But I put my money where my mouth is.
I run 10w-30 dino Rotella. I run that oil in my Dmax truck, and my Kubota tractor (among other stuff) year round. Never had cold start issues, never had a bad UOA. My average low temp is +18F (-8C); not far off your averages. And it does get down below -20C at my home, too.


Again - you don't "need" synthetics; you want them.

 

[TiredTrucker]

I think the big labels are ripping people off. My local oil supplier brings me a syn blend that, according to their MSDS, has 40% synthetic. Delivered to my door, for free, in a 55 drum for just over $12 a gallon.

 

[Ken2]

There are different qualities in synthetics and syn blends. While there is much talk about the use of Group III base oil, the so-called synthetic, as being inferior to PAO base oil, there is little talk about the different grades of Group III. The best G-III is very close to PAO in quality. The cheapest G-III is little better than Group II+. A syn blend oil can be top quality conventional base oil plus top quality syn, or it can be low quality conventional plus low quality G-III just to bring it up to minimum spec---and the label still calls it syn blend for marketing reasons and a price premium.

So---think about your needs and buy a top brand oil that will best meet those needs. It matters little what they claim the oil is made from as long as the oil maker has a track record of excellent results. I'd rather use a top quality conventional oil (if it met my low temperature needs and other concerns) than a cheap syn blend or full syn from an oil maker I don't trust.