Valvoline 10w40 - 600 Miles - 1971 Pontiac 400

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Would like some help please!

Complete engine rebuild (hyd - flat tappets)
Run on dyno for break-in and tuning with a special break-in oil and EOS. 10w40 and EOS for 250 miles and then changed. 600 miles on Valvoline 10w40 (Sample Below) Total mile on car are 1,000 (adding some for the break-in run)

I started picking up some valve train tapping and found 1 rocker that was off of adjustment. Changed the oil and sent the sample in expecting that I wiped a cam lobe.

Surprised by what I got back - expecting iron to be much higher if I wiped a cam lobe - wasn't expecting lead to be so high!

Questions:
A: Wouldn't I expect to see my higher iron if I wiped a cam lobe
B: Is in normal to see very high wear in metals (like lead and tin) if the engine was a fresh rebuild and only has about 1K miles on her?

Thanks for the help!
Mark


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I guess all you can do is watch the lead and tin trend and hope it goes down.

Did this thing ever run on leaded gas and have you replaced all the components that could still contain it?

Maybe the vis is too low. For that amount of fuel and miles, the vis doesnt seem right to me.

What were they referring to about the filters?
 
Who did the rebuild on this engine? Were bearing clearances checked? That seems like alot of lead even after only 1000 miles.
 
This was a 1968 engine so it should have run on leaded for most of its previous life (it was a core so I have no idea about history). I wonder if lead was present in the break-in lube, I'll have to ask.

I send them a piece of filter element showing shome shavings - asked if this was normal to still find trash.

A local shop with a great rep (builds racing engines and specialty street engines) but I obviously am trusting in the capability.
 
I would think you'd see more iron if you'd wiped a lobe but
dunno.gif


That oil sheared well into the 30 weight range in no time at all without that much fuel dilution. There's a reason people quit using dino 10W-40's. Why not try a 15W-40 HDMO?
 
I agree - going with Rotella 15W40 going forward!

I'm hoping that lead came from somewhere else - even though the block was hot tanked I wonder if I could be seeing some residual that's leaching out???

Mark
 
Engine is still breaking in. Scary numbers.

Don't use that 10w40.
But, I don't see why a 10w40 would shear to a 30wt in 600 miles. Something is wrong.

Definitely need more UOAs just to see the numbers improve, or not.
 
I found one rocker really loose, adjusted it and noise went away and then came right back - loose again after a short ride. That's a wiped cam lobe - just thought I would have seen more iron?

Next question considering the lead is how much crap is floating in the system and should I try a cam and lifter swap or a full tear-down?

frown.gif

Mark
 
Mark check the lift on that rocker with the slack taken out, compare it to the rest. If they all have the same lift at the rocker you may only have a loose adjuster or something other than a wiped lobe. Maybe just wishful thinking, this happened to me once. I hope it turns out ok. Some wear metals are normal in the filter of a new rebuild. Rickey.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Hawk397:
I found one rocker really loose, adjusted it and noise went away and then came right back - loose again after a short ride. That's a wiped cam lobe - just thought I would have seen more iron?

Next question considering the lead is how much crap is floating in the system and should I try a cam and lifter swap or a full tear-down?

frown.gif

Mark


You sure? Could the stud be pulling out of the head instead?
 
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