2004 Tacoma V6 3.4L - Maintenance and MPG Help.

[mc4nam]

Hello,

Been Lurking on this forum for a while and decided to join in and get some valuable tips from you guys. Bad news is I am not very handy with a wrench and do not do my own oil changes and maintenance.

My 2004 Tacoma is gladly paid for and would love to drive it for many many more years. Most of the maintenance that has been done on it at Toyota and it has received a blend oil and Dino oil in its life. The truck is almost at 99k miles and would like to know what, if anything, I should start doing to make sure it last another 100k miles. The truck seems to be running fine as far as I can tell with my limited knowledge.

Last year at this time I ran 1/3 Can of SeaFoam through brake booster air line, rest of can in full gas tank. I got a pretty big smoke show, but honestly I did not notice any idling or performance difference.

The next thing I am going to try to do myself is clean the MAF Sensor. I got a can of CRC MAF Cleaner and instructions I have found make this look pretty easy. I also bought a can of SeaFoam Spray Deep creep and may try to clean throttle body myself. Do you guys suggest I do both of these? Pretty Easy Right?

My MPG is 15-17 in city right now and 19-21 on Hwy. I would love to get that up a couple of MPG's if possible.

Here are the things I am going to try based on reading this forum. Please let me know if I am on the right track with any of these or if they are a waste of time or can I do something else or better?

1. Go to Mobil 1 Synthetic EP. Change oil between 7k and 10k.
2. Keep using factory Toyota - Denso Large Oil filter.
(This or any Oil filter going to be ok for up to 10k?)
3. Run some type of Oil Additive right before I change my
oil to the Mobil one? Which one?
4. Use a can of BG44k in fuel at this oil change and then
Redline SI-1 every 3rd or so fill-up.
5. Any special air filter help on my truck outside of factory?
I do not want to mess with oiling filter and I would
prefer my truck not to get louder.
6. Anything else I should do?

Sorry for the lengthy post, but I wanted to be as detailed as possible. Most importantly, I want my truck to run great for years to come and would love to save a few dollars on fuel in the long run.

Thanks in advance for all replies, advice, and suggestions.

MC

 

[01rangerxl]

The 3.4 uses a timing belt, so go ahead and plan on getting that replaced soon. The interval is probably 100K miles or 120K miles.

The MAF cleaner might help some, but if the truck is already running fine I don't think you will notice much of a difference. The main thing to remember when cleaning the MAF is don't touch it. Don't even let the extension straw on the spray can bump into the wire.

As for the throttle body, it helps some vehicles to clean it, but mine has some sort of coating on it and a warning label that says not to clean it.

I would stick to the stock air filter element or an OEM style replacement.

 

[mc4nam]

Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
The 3.4 uses a timing belt, so go ahead and plan on getting that replaced soon. The interval is probably 100K miles or 120K miles.

The MAF cleaner might help some, but if the truck is already running fine I don't think you will notice much of a difference. The main thing to remember when cleaning the MAF is don't touch it. Don't even let the extension straw on the spray can bump into the wire.

As for the throttle body, it helps some vehicles to clean it, but mine has some sort of coating on it and a warning label that says not to clean it.

I would stick to the stock air filter element or an OEM style replacement.


Thank you very much. I did have timing belt replaced at 75k miles and I will be careful with MAF.

 

[OVERKILL]

What was broken that you were trying to fix with these chemical "treatments"?

What are you hoping to fix by cleaning the MAF?

If the vehicle runs fine, I would start there. And go forward with regular scheduled maintenance like oil changes, T-belt (as mentioned above)....etc.

Fixing it until it is broken may not be the wisest move.

 

[Quest]

Mileage for a 3.4L V6 truck with 15-17 in city right now and 19-21 on Hwy. is about right.

Nothing you can do to improve gas mileage in this case (IMHO). Just drive it.

Q.

 

[Cujet]

Fuel economy dot gov shows 18MPG as the user average for your year and engine. For whatever reason, the Toyota V6 is not known for stellar MPG in the Pickup.

 

[HerrStig]

Anytime you throw mouse milk at something you are, in effect, raising your cost per mile. If your fuel consumption goes down then there is an + offset. Otherwise, it ain't worth it. I'd pull plug in an easy to get to location and check the gap and condition. If the engine is runing well, you can make an inference about the other five. Plugs are cheap, and you don't have a back bank arm twister to worry about as we do with "transverse mount". As far as where to get things done you can't do yourself, it is sad to say that I haven't seen a "stealer" in a long time who wouldn't take advantage, based on their employees working on commission. Try to find an honest independent shop. You can Google "Car Talk" they have lists of good shops based on location.
There is also "Angies List". If you see someone in a parking lot with a well cared for Toyota truck about the age of yours, ask where they get work done. Given that "brand loyality" is probably at an all time low, dealers seem to view customers as sheep to be sheared for as long as they are dumb enough to keep returning, the fact that they gouge the bleep out of people on repair costs and the folks go elsewhere the next time doesn't seem to sink in. I don't know how Toyota Corporate, in particular tolerates the complaints they get without banging the dealers. There are some good Korean cars out there now.

 

[95busa]

Run the recommended air pressure in your tires and maybe + a few pounds- check weekly. Use synthetic lube in your differentials, transmission, power steering and transfer case. Remove anything that messes with aerodynamics (bug deflectors, mud flaps, window vent visors, etc). Properly adjust drum brakes. Drive 60-65 on the interstate. Accelerate slowly, upshift early. If you are running steel wheels try to get some factory alloys for cheap (craigslist) IOT reduce unsprung weight. Low-rolling resistance tires are good, read reviews thoroughly because they are not created equal. Michelins are usually excellent. Remove extra weight.

 

[mc4nam]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
What was broken that you were trying to fix with these chemical "treatments"?

What are you hoping to fix by cleaning the MAF?

If the vehicle runs fine, I would start there. And go forward with regular scheduled maintenance like oil changes, T-belt (as mentioned above)....etc.

Fixing it until it is broken may not be the wisest move.


Thanks for all the great replies. I really wasn't trying to fix anything. I have no idea if the MAF needs to be cleaned or if it ever has been cleaned. Just read a lot of places tht it is a good idea. I was just hoping that maybe it could run a little better and last longer if I took the time to clean anything internally that I could with chemicals.

Getting 1 to 2 mpg would be nice but my number one goal is to make it last as long as possible. Spending a little time and money on better oil and supplements to make the truck last longer is way cheaper than a new vehicle. But to your point, if I am throwing money away and am just as well off just getting schedule maintenance that is fine also.


Quote:
Anytime you throw mouse milk at something you are, in effect, raising your cost per mile. If your fuel consumption goes down then there is an + offset. Otherwise, it ain't worth it. I'd pull plug in an easy to get to location and check the gap and condition. If the engine is runing well, you can make an inference about the other five. Plugs are cheap, and you don't have a back bank arm twister to worry about as we do with "transverse mount". As far as where to get things done you can't do yourself, it is sad to say that I haven't seen a "stealer" in a long time who wouldn't take advantage, based on their employees working on commission. Try to find an honest independent shop. You can Google "Car Talk" they have lists of good shops based on location.
There is also "Angies List". If you see someone in a parking lot with a well cared for Toyota truck about the age of yours, ask where they get work done. Given that "brand loyalty" is probably at an all time low, dealers seem to view customers as sheep to be sheared for as long as they are dumb enough to keep returning, the fact that they gouge the bleep out of people on repair costs and the folks go elsewhere the next time doesn't seem to sink in. I don't know how Toyota Corporate, in particular tolerates the complaints they get without banging the dealers. There are some good Korean cars out there now.


Great Points. I have actually been looking around for a quality repair/maintenance shop because I think the dealer said they changed my Transmission fluid one time and actually didn't. I think I am going to start bringing my own oil and filter and go to places that I can actually see my vehicle being worked on. Jiffy Lube type set-up I guess.

Quote:
Run the recommended air pressure in your tires and maybe + a few pounds- check weekly. Use synthetic lube in your differentials, transmission, power steering and transfer case. Remove anything that messes with aerodynamics (bug deflectors, mud flaps, window vent visors, etc). Properly adjust drum brakes. Drive 60-65 on the interstate. Accelerate slowly, upshift early. If you are running steel wheels try to get some factory alloys for cheap (craigslist) IOT reduce unsprung weight. Low-rolling resistance tires are good, read reviews thoroughly because they are not created equal. Michelins are usually excellent. Remove extra weight.


Great Suggestions. I have been working on staying under 2K RPM's and coasting into red lights and such. I did buy more of a SUV Road tire for my truck about 12k miles ago. Bridgestone Alenza HL. Much quieter than old Firestone and nitto truck tires, but I did not see a MPG increase. They are not a Low rolling resistance tire. I did not know to look for that a year ago.

 

[meep]

Originally Posted By: 95busa
Run the recommended air pressure in your tires and maybe + a few pounds- check weekly. Use synthetic lube in your differentials, transmission, power steering and transfer case. Remove anything that messes with aerodynamics (bug deflectors, mud flaps, window vent visors, etc). Properly adjust drum brakes. Drive 60-65 on the interstate. Accelerate slowly, upshift early. If you are running steel wheels try to get some factory alloys for cheap (craigslist) IOT reduce unsprung weight. Low-rolling resistance tires are good, read reviews thoroughly because they are not created equal. Michelins are usually excellent. Remove extra weight.


^^^this

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: mc4nam
I was just hoping that maybe it could run a little better and last longer if I took the time to clean anything internally that I could with chemicals.


I don't think you have anything to worry about as far as the truck lasting. The engine and drivetrain should be able to do 200K miles no problem with the most basic maintenance.

The Achilles' heel of the Tacoma is frame rust, which Toyota will fix with either a new frame or by buying the truck back. In TX it probably isn't a concern for your truck, so you should have a very durable vehicle. It sounds like you have been staying on top of maintenance, so I wouldn't worry.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

Agree with 95busa and meep. A Good syn lube in the trans, diffs and xfer case would be better than in the engine. No Supplements needed. Synthetic wont increase your fuel mileage as current API SN/GF5 "dino" oils must surpass a lab PAO synthetic to be "resource conserving". I would not touch the MAF AT ALL unless you are having throttle tip in sag and general bad performance. A Dirty air filter will give you very slightly BETTER fuel mileage as it throttles the engine - similar to a restrictor plate in NASCAR. So a better breathing filter - not that there exist one other than a clean factory spun poly unit - will not help fuel mileage ONLY high RPM full throttle power. HAve fun and Welcome!

 

[mc4nam]

Originally Posted By: 95busa
Use synthetic lube in your differentials, transmission, power steering and transfer case.


So basically run synthetic lubes everywhere that I can?

So The Consensus is that I will be wasting time and money on cleaning MAF and Throttle Body and no need to use BG44k or Redline SI-1 unless I am having a problem?

Thanks.

 

[mc4nam]

Also, I am in The North Dallas/Plano area. Any suggestions on a trust worthy maintenance/mechanic shop?

 

[cadfaeltex]

Originally Posted By: mc4nam
Also, I am in The North Dallas/Plano area. Any suggestions on a trust worthy maintenance/mechanic shop?


Can't help you with this question but have one for you. Without getting too nosey, what is the specific reason you can't do it yourself? I am not the handiest person either but once I started to try I've been really surprised at what I can do.

Agree with earlier post that driving style is most important to MPG. The hypermiling techniques work, just don't do the extreme ones like tailgating semis.

 

[mc4nam]

Originally Posted By: cadfaeltex
Originally Posted By: mc4nam
Also, I am in The North Dallas/Plano area. Any suggestions on a trust worthy maintenance/mechanic shop?


Can't help you with this question but have one for you. Without getting too nosey, what is the specific reason you can't do it yourself? I am not the handiest person either but once I started to try I've been really surprised at what I can do.

Agree with earlier post that driving style is most important to MPG. The hypermiling techniques work, just don't do the extreme ones like tailgating semis.


You are probably right I should just try, but it is a confidence issue and lack of tools and any knowledge at all of what I am looking at or looking for. Thought about attempting oil changes myself, but then I started reading complaints about the hassle of changing the oil filter in my particular truck and decided against it.

I found a little quick lube shop by my house that has great reviews online. They said they would charge me $20 to change the oil and filter and do a basic check if I bring my own oil and filter. 5.7 quarts of Mobil 1 EP synthetic and a Toyota Oil filter will set me back about $40. I figure a full synthetic oil change for $60 is pretty cheap. I am currently paying $40 for whatever Oil and Filter Toyota uses

 

[01rangerxl]

You might actually be surprised at how easy the job will get once you know the steps. The 3.4 is a little bit of a pain in the rear compared to the 4.0, but it's still just an oil change. I found that going through the wheel well worked best for me to get to the oil filter on 3.4s. I have to do the same thing on my Ranger. The first oil change was tricky, but once I knew what to do it became easy.

I think switching all the fluids to synthetic is a good idea. I doubt you will see much better fuel economy than what you are getting, but it will help ensure that the truck gives you many more miles of trouble free use.

 

[mc4nam]

Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
You might actually be surprised at how easy the job will get once you know the steps. The 3.4 is a little bit of a pain in the rear compared to the 4.0, but it's still just an oil change. I found that going through the wheel well worked best for me to get to the oil filter on 3.4s. I have to do the same thing on my Ranger. The first oil change was tricky, but once I knew what to do it became easy.

I think switching all the fluids to synthetic is a good idea. I doubt you will see much better fuel economy than what you are getting, but it will help ensure that the truck gives you many more miles of trouble free use.


Thanks. I may give it a shot. What synthetic Fluid should I use for my truck? I assume I use the same fluid everywhere correct?

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: mc4nam
Originally Posted By: 01rangerxl
You might actually be surprised at how easy the job will get once you know the steps. The 3.4 is a little bit of a pain in the rear compared to the 4.0, but it's still just an oil change. I found that going through the wheel well worked best for me to get to the oil filter on 3.4s. I have to do the same thing on my Ranger. The first oil change was tricky, but once I knew what to do it became easy.

I think switching all the fluids to synthetic is a good idea. I doubt you will see much better fuel economy than what you are getting, but it will help ensure that the truck gives you many more miles of trouble free use.


Thanks. I may give it a shot. What synthetic Fluid should I use for my truck? I assume I use the same fluid everywhere correct?


You can use the same brand, but each component needs a different type of fluid. Some of the Toyota fans can probably give you good recommendations.

For the transmission Toyota probably calls for T-IV fluid, which you can get at the dealer. Mobil 1 universal synthetic ATF might be a good substitute, but Mobil also makes a T-IV substitute that could work.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Other_Products/Mobil_ATF_3309.aspx

For the differential, you need gear oil. Toyota probably calls for 75W90, 80W90, or 75W140. Really any name brand of synthetic should be fine here. Mobil would be a good choice again. I have used it with no problems. Right now I have Royal Purple Max Gear 75W90 and it seems to be doing fine.

Power steering is probably either ATF or some sort of Toyota specific fluid. If it's ATF, whatever you use in the transmission is probably fine.

All brake fluid is synthetic and has to meet certain specifications, so just make sure you get the correct kind, probably DOT3 in your truck.

Coolant is probably Toyota pink, which you can get at the dealer, but Zerex (sold at Napa) may have a suitable alternative. Resist the temptation to just use Prestone "all makes," because it's not really the best choice for a lot of vehicles.

The Toyota crowd can probably give you better suggestions.

 

[hattaresguy]

Don't touch the MAF if it runs fine. Spraying it will probably break it.