Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
A Group III syntactic 0W-20 has a NOACK of about 14% vs. the slightly less than 15% NOACK of a conventional 5W-20. Therefore, in terms of the quality of the basestock, there is not much difference. Group IV formulations will have less NOACK and higher quality. For 5,000-mile OCIs, there shouldn't be any problem.
If the 5W-20 is synthetic and under the same oil line (such as Mobil 1), it will have a lower NOACK than 0W-20, which means that it's made of a higher quality basestock that will allow you longer OCIs and more protection against wear and sludge. That (lower NOACK, hence shorter OCI because of faster oil cooking) is exactly the reason why Mobil 1 Extended Protection isn't offered for 0W-20. Unless the temperature is very, very cold (well-below freezing), chances are that you may even be better off with a 5W-20 synthetic than a 0W-20 synthetic.
First you don't exactly know the NOACK of most 0W-20 oils or what their base oil composition is.
Anyway for the sake of argument lets assume the NOACK is indeed higher for a 0W-20 synthetic vs a 5W-20 synthetic (a product btw that is unique to NA only) that doesn't mean that lower quality base oils are used but rather lighter base oils. So you really are comparing apples and oranges.
And the lightest oil readily available on the market; the Toyota 0W-20 has a recommended 10,000 OCI in the States and we've seen plenty of decent UOA at that interval which is plenty long enough for most of us.
And the main purpose of the high VI 0W-20 oils like the Toyota 0W-20 is all about a low start-up viscosity as possible even at temp's as high as 100F which is still a cold start as far as an engine is concerned. The fact that these oils also work well at extremely cold temp's is actually incidental to their main purpose. It's all about a high VI which primarily is to save fuel but having as oil as light as possible has many advantages.
The following video is about Sustina 0W-20 with it's 229 VI and demonstrates the advantage of a high VI oil quite nicely:
http://www.sustina.us/product-line.php
If you can, fast foreward through the first 1/3rd of it.
Thanks for the video. I'll watch it when the entire 357 MB downloads.
I define the quality of the basestock by how long it takes for the basestock to cook in the engine, which then requires an oil change. All basestocks (dino or synthetic) are of the same quality when they are new, as far as their lubrication efficiency and engine protection is concerned. But, under use in an engine, the NOACK volatility is what determines how long a basestock will last.
Sure, a high viscosity index is nice to have, but it has nothing to with how long a basestock lasts under use in an engine. Also, given how fast the engines warm up these days, it's not too critical for the oil to be a little thinner when the engine is cold (in other words, to have a higher viscosity index).
A high VI may not be important to you but it's the "holy grail" to auto manufacturers and motor oil formulators and it has been for the past 100 years.
What's the the defining difference between a GP II dino base oil and a GP III synthetic? The later must have a VI of at least 120; it's only 80 for a dino. NOACK doesn't enter the picture.
The emphasis you're placing on NOACK is misplaced. Yes it can be an issue for heavier oil grades where high oil temp's may apply but it is not of major importance in most 20wt applications since the maximum oil temp's are well contained.
Oil consumption has proven not to be an issue in vehicles for which a 20wt oil is specified and that includes OCIs of up to 10,000 miles.