Redline 0w20
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I'd definitely like to see some UOAs on this if people choose to run it this winter.
Thanx for posting, although I don't ever see myself springing for Red Line. Does look like a stout oil though.
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
I'd definitely like to see some UOAs on this if people choose to run it this winter.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2363670&page=1
Definately not your best choice if you want a light winter oil.
I'd definitely like to see some UOAs on this if people choose to run it this winter.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2363670&page=1
Definately not your best choice if you want a light winter oil.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
I'd definitely like to see some UOAs on this if people choose to run it this winter.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2363670&page=1
Definately not your best choice if you want a light winter oil.
What's wrong with that UOA?
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
I'd definitely like to see some UOAs on this if people choose to run it this winter.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2363670&page=1
Definately not your best choice if you want a light winter oil.
What's wrong with that UOA?
Nothing really wrong with the UOA.
But if you're looking for a light 0W-20 oil for the winter the RL oil which in reality is a light 30wt is the wrong grade.
But if you're looking for a light 0W-20 oil for the winter the RL oil which in reality is a light 30wt is the wrong grade.
^I should have clarified, for folks that choose to use a 20 in the winter that normally run with 30 during the summer.
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Nothing really wrong with the UOA.
But if you're looking for a light 0W-20 oil for the winter the RL oil which in reality is a light 30wt is the wrong grade.
Thanks for clarifying, didn't even notice the viscosity.
Nothing really wrong with the UOA.
But if you're looking for a light 0W-20 oil for the winter the RL oil which in reality is a light 30wt is the wrong grade.
Thanks for clarifying, didn't even notice the viscosity.
Is so high level of Moly - dangerous?
Originally Posted By: Izb
Is so high level of Moly - dangerous?
Probably not but I do not think you need that much moly...
Is so high level of Moly - dangerous?
Probably not but I do not think you need that much moly...
...and actually I'd say it's probably about as much as would be needed before a potential decline. Not sure if soluble moly past a point would hurt, might depend on the engine design. This amount isn't that point, IMO...probably more of an issue if severely OD'ing on MoS2 additives.
I disagree with Caterham's characterization of this oil as "too thick for winter use", the pour point is -76! So what if the HTHS is a bit higher than the vaunted Toyota 0w20, I for one don't care a bit...
I ran the Redline 0w30 for 2 winters,never had any issues,so running the 0w20 I'm sure wouldnt hurt anything in the cold winter months either. Temps got down to as low as -20 degrees F. at night,with highs in the single digits during the day.
Originally Posted By: Brons2
I disagree with Caterham's characterization of this oil as "too thick for winter use", the pour point is -76! So what if the HTHS is a bit higher than the vaunted Toyota 0w20, I for one don't care a bit...
He's OCD man, too thick for 'ideal' winter use 'maybe' compared to the 'most uber light oil available'.
No problem with these 0w-TWENTY oils in the winter.
I disagree with Caterham's characterization of this oil as "too thick for winter use", the pour point is -76! So what if the HTHS is a bit higher than the vaunted Toyota 0w20, I for one don't care a bit...
He's OCD man, too thick for 'ideal' winter use 'maybe' compared to the 'most uber light oil available'.
No problem with these 0w-TWENTY oils in the winter.
Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Originally Posted By: Izb
Is so high level of Moly - dangerous?
Probably not but I do not think you need that much moly...
Nothing "dangerous" at all with the RL moly level, in fact the Idemitsu 0W-20 that's made for Honda/Acura Canada, Mazda USA and Subaru USA has 1,000 ppm of moly.
Originally Posted By: Izb
Is so high level of Moly - dangerous?
Probably not but I do not think you need that much moly...
Nothing "dangerous" at all with the RL moly level, in fact the Idemitsu 0W-20 that's made for Honda/Acura Canada, Mazda USA and Subaru USA has 1,000 ppm of moly.
Originally Posted By: Brons2
I disagree with Caterham's characterization of this oil as "too thick for winter use", the pour point is -76! So what if the HTHS is a bit higher than the vaunted Toyota 0w20, I for one don't care a bit...
You should read what I said more closely because I never said RL 0W-20 was "too thick for winter use". What I said was, " if your looking for a light 0W-20 for winter the RL oil which is really a light 30wt is the wrong grade".
The PP is a totally useless spec' in a finished oil and is quite misleading which is why the extreme cold CCS and MRV spec's were developed.
RL 0W-20 has a MRV of 27,000cP which is worse than most if not all 0W-30 oils let alone all 0W-20 oils. By comparison M1 AFE 0W-30 has a MRV at -40 degrees of 13,200cP.
I disagree with Caterham's characterization of this oil as "too thick for winter use", the pour point is -76! So what if the HTHS is a bit higher than the vaunted Toyota 0w20, I for one don't care a bit...
You should read what I said more closely because I never said RL 0W-20 was "too thick for winter use". What I said was, " if your looking for a light 0W-20 for winter the RL oil which is really a light 30wt is the wrong grade".
The PP is a totally useless spec' in a finished oil and is quite misleading which is why the extreme cold CCS and MRV spec's were developed.
RL 0W-20 has a MRV of 27,000cP which is worse than most if not all 0W-30 oils let alone all 0W-20 oils. By comparison M1 AFE 0W-30 has a MRV at -40 degrees of 13,200cP.
Might splurge and try in the metro1.0
Ken
Ken
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