Ripping 2x4 lumber with a circular saw

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JHZR2

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Hi,

I'm putting crown moulding in multiple rooms in my house. One of the rooms I'm using bigger moulding, like 3.5+". Because the house is somewhat crooked and the walls are all plaster, I'd like to put up nailing strips.

I don't have a table saw, just a circular saw and a compound mitre.

So there are instructions on this old house for how to make nailing strips.

http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/m/skill-builder/0,,20168434,00.html

But it isn't very clear how to cut the 2x4. I need to rip them with my circular saw.

I tried the method I'm going to show, it works. Would love a safety critique though, as I'm far from a regular at ripping wood or operating a circular saw. I have a few 1000# saw horses, so I clamped the wood to the horses, scribed the lines on the wood, then cut.

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So it is a 3-sawhorse setup. Clamp to two with someone spotting down there. Set the third horse a little but in and start ripping. Go a few inches in, change the horse to the end of the board, keep ripping in. Can only do about 5 of 8 feet, but to me it is safe, I have good control, and stay alongside the board at a good height.

Is there a better way?

Thanks!
 
Pretty good job with a circular saw...the better way, of course, is to find a friend with a table saw...
 
Thanks! The saw (US made Skil worm drive) is nice. I even shaved a 2mm thick edge off of one of the sides of the 2x4, as my other cut's size requirement didn't make the cut down down the middle.

I could cut a pretty precise little sliver off of the 2x4.

But ripping boards scares me, so it helps to have other eyes considering safety too.
 
Looks great. Amazing what we can do with some ingenuity.

One idea I have is to clamp some scrap 2X boards (or 3/4 plywood) to the sawhorses. Then deck screw your 2 x 4 to the scrap wood base. You could then rip the entire 2 x 4, then zip the hold down screws out. Be careful where you place the screws to avoid the blade.
 
I was about to suggest something similar, but use some small screws to screw it down to some scrap that you don't mind gouging. I'd worry about catching a blade on a sawhorse.

Good idea for nailer boards through. My folks house needs some work. Going to show my Dad that!
 
The fact that you are questioning safety means that you are thinking about it and taking precautions...it's gun-ho stuff that gets you hurt.

(like my ex boss cutting roof tiles while on the roof with a 9" grinder - chopped clean through his Achilles tendon)
 
Originally Posted By: SuperDave456
I'd worry about catching a blade on a sawhorse.



Well I set the third sawhorse (cutting end) about 1 ft in, cut from the end in about 6-8 inches, and then move the sawhorse (plastic so very light)to the end and cut in along the line I drew.

Since Im cognizant of it, no way to catch the sawhorse.

I can also set blade depth for a 2x4.
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4


Is that a Skil Mag77 in the picture?!!? If so, I'm impressed.
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What else would I buy? Yes, indeed. And a wife in the same picture not afraid of doing hard work.
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
And a wife in the same picture not afraid of doing hard work.


Aren't we the lucky ones? Today, I caught my wife loading a large, heavy live trapped possum into our Caravan and she carted it off to release it (she doesn't like my disposal method). This is the third one in 2 weeks trying to get a bite on our chickens.

When I got home, she had a hot kettle of venison stew going. Gotta love em.

Back on topic, is there any way to mount that beast upside down and make it into a makeshift table saw?
 
As an alternative to following a pencil line with the blade, you might try putting either a clamp or piece of tape on the saw base and follow the edge of the 2x4, assuming the base is wide enough.
 
I got you all beat. If you are ripping something 5 inches or smaller you just pinch the table with your fingers then use them as a fence against tge side of the wood. Consistent and fast.
 
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