Lifetime Haldex Filter: Warning, graphic pics!!!

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: tangojetta
I got a reply from Heldex about maitenance and here it is....


From Haldex point of view there is no need to exchange the oil or filter. There is no need for any preventive maintenance on the unit during the life of the vehicle.



Well, I guess this is what it really come down to, "the life of the vehicle". The maximum warranty period is 100K miles, the owner's manual service recommend service intervals up to 150K. I think that's the service life of the vehicle, 100-150K.

If you want to keep your vehicle for 100-150K and then put it to pasture, then by all means that service schedule will probably work just fine.

Since you've already had communication with them, if you want to send them those pictures of mine at 90K, feel free. I'd be interested in their response, and if they feel that fluid/filter is in acceptable condition.

 

[hahnmgh63]

Audi / VW actually recommend a 20K service interval for the Haldex on the Audi tt & VW R32 as they are transverse engines and can't use the regular Audi Quattro drivetrain. There Haldex controllers use a little spin-on replacement filter and have a drain hole in the bottom of the Haldex sump. I replace the Haldex fluid on my tt right on time of every 20K. Just like Volvo though, they don't tell you what the oil is in the caulking gun type tube you purchase from them, just that it is Haldex fluid.

 

[JOD]

Postmortem:

Just in case one of the other 7 Freestyle owners stumbles across this thread trying to work on their own car, I figured I would post an update:

After doing 3 drain/fills last year and the filter swap, I let it go for a year. In order to drain the fluid, you have to suck it out w/a vacuum pump, so how much you get out depends on how lucky you are threading the tube into the Haldex unit. I've gotten any where from 1/2 to 3/4 of the fluid out, depending on how the planets aligned. After 20K miles, I decided to do another drain/fill and filter swap, since it looked so horrible last year. As it turned out, the fluid was still yellow and clear, and the filter looked quite clean. I already pulled the filter, and since it's a press-fit I just used the new one I had on hand, but it didn't need changed.

Going forward, I'm thinking that Audi's recommendation is probably good: 20K on the fluid, 40K on the filter.

 

[bdcardinal]

Good to hear!! I need to get motivated and change the fluid on my Volvo's Haldex unit. I have the filter and the Volvo fluid, it is just convincing myself to get off my rear and do it.

On the plus side I did put on the OEM Volvo heat shield for the Haldex unit, just in case.

 

[CBR.worm]

I don't know who makes my transfer case, but I am suddenly feeling like changing it. I have done front/rear and tranny.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: bdcardinal
Good to hear!! I need to get motivated and change the fluid on my Volvo's Haldex unit. I have the filter and the Volvo fluid, it is just convincing myself to get off my rear and do it.

On the plus side I did put on the OEM Volvo heat shield for the Haldex unit, just in case.


On your car, the DEM sits right on top of the exhaust, so that heat shield is probably a good idea! Changing the Hadlex fluid on the R is pretty simple--you have a clean shot to get to the fill plug. One piece of advice: find a long-handled ball-head 4mm hex key with a handle, and preferably a screw-holding tip:

http://www.amazon.com/Wiha-54040-MagicRing-T-Handle-150mm/dp/B000T9WASM

I had this laying around for my bike wrenching. The top bolt on the Haldex filter cover is a giant pain to reach and re-install, and I think it's worse on the R. This tool made all the difference.

 

[chevrofreak]

So, this only applies to the AWD Freestyle, right? Not something I have to worry about with my girlfriends FWD car? I bought a case of Motorcraft chain type CVT fluid and am going to change it soon.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
So, this only applies to the AWD Freestyle, right? Not something I have to worry about with my girlfriends FWD car? I bought a case of Motorcraft chain type CVT fluid and am going to change it soon.


Yep, AWD only. For the FWD, the transmission serves as the front differential as well.

Are you changing the HP/full flow filter as well? If not, you'll probably want to change that, too. I wouldn't bother with the pan filter, though.

 

[wiswind]

This looks like a typical case of what I don't like about the "vehicle maintenance cost" marketing that we see.

Thanks for posting this detailed information, I'm sure that it will be most useful for those who have this AWD unit.

I have read that a majority of the "junk" in transmission fluid is generated within the first 5K miles of service life.
This is the casting sand, machining dust and clutch break-in dust from the start of use with the unit.

One thing, it sounds like you have this process down to a easy system.
Can you post step-by-step instructions with pictures (or a link to them?).
I do not personally have this unit, but have posted step-by-step pictures of various service processes on a couple of vehicles, and gotten feedback from folks who felt that the pictures helped them.
I have a series of pictures of some various projects with my old '96 Windstar, the folder has over 500K views.
I started taking pictures to help myself put things back together, as I'm far from a mechanic.
I decided to post them online with some instructions.
There is no service manual published that has enough pictures to satisfy me.
Most folks in a forum, such as this, use their computer to research issues with their vehicles, and comming across clear pictures that show step-by-step the process that they are trying to do, on exactly the vehicle that they have is a great find.

 

[chevrofreak]

Originally Posted By: JOD
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
So, this only applies to the AWD Freestyle, right? Not something I have to worry about with my girlfriends FWD car? I bought a case of Motorcraft chain type CVT fluid and am going to change it soon.


Yep, AWD only. For the FWD, the transmission serves as the front differential as well.

Are you changing the HP/full flow filter as well? If not, you'll probably want to change that, too. I wouldn't bother with the pan filter, though.


I know practically nothing about these transmissions. Do you have a link to a guide on maintaining them by chance?

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak

I know practically nothing about these transmissions. Do you have a link to a guide on maintaining them by chance?


Sure, here you go:

http://www.myfordfreestyle.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3906&start=15

The pictures disappeared when I first did the write-up, so someone was kind enough to re-organize it and host the pictures. The only thing I'd add is to drain the fluid hot, but let it cool to room temperature--then measure what you took out. It's pretty sensitive to fluid level, and this fluid expands more than most when it's hot. The procedure for checking the fluid is on there as well--but to save you the trouble of looking for it, when the car is up to full operating temps (say after a 20-30 minute drive), the trans fluid should be between the top hole/up to 12mm ABOVE the top hole on the dipstick with the car running, parked in neutral.

The car has 2 filters, a full-flow filter and a rock-catcher type in the pan. I wouldn't bother with the pan filter unless the pan is weeping. The full-flow filter is a wire-backed full synthetic media (looks like the Donaldson filters). The interval is 60K. You could probably go longer, but I've been sticking to 60K. You can get around 60-70% of the fluid out during a drain/fill (torque converter is small)--there's no way to do a cooler line flush, for a few different reasons. So, my strategy has been to do a drain/fill every 30K, filter @ 60K. It's probably overkill, but it's an expensive transmission. You have to use the Motorcraft fluid. I've found it pretty cheap online.

I actually posted a how-to on the AWD fluids/filter on there as well, in answer to the post above yours.

 

[chevrofreak]

I got the fluid where I work, so it wasn't that expensive thanks to my discount. I plan on changing it every 30k to prolong the life of her car. Thanks for the link, I will read it thoroughly.

 

[chevrofreak]

Is this Haldex fluid the same thing as Motorcraft Specialty Power Transfer Unit Fluit 75w-90? We carry that stuff at work (says made in Germany) and when I was researching PTU fluid for my Mercury Mariner, I looked into it. What I could find was that it was only for use in the Freestyle/500/Montego. We have like 8 cases (2 16oz~ bottles per case) that have been sitting on the shelf since 2005. If this is the stuff the Haldex unit needs, maybe I have a way for us to unload all of it....

 

[bdcardinal]

The PTU is what Volvo calls an Angle gear or Bevel gear. The Haldex fluid goes in the AOC mounted directly in front of the rear diff. The number on the Volvo bottles I have here is 30759648. I snapped a quick pic so no comments on my messy desk at home.

 

[JOD]

Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
What I could find was that it was only for use in the Freestyle/500/Montego. We have like 8 cases (2 16oz~ bottles per case) that have been sitting on the shelf since 2005. If this is the stuff the Haldex unit needs, maybe I have a way for us to unload all of it....


umm...whoa....good luck moving that stuff!

Nope, as BDCardinal mentioned, that's for the front bevel gear. The Haldex fluid is basically a non-detergent 0W10 weight oil. The PTU fluid is low-foaming 75W90 GL-5 gear oil. I used M1 Synthetic 75W90 in mine. I've seen the stuff you have for $14.00 for 500ml bottle (ouch!). If it were cheap enough and you were looking to get rid of it, I'd consider using it and helping a brother out! I think I'm one of about 4 people changing these fluids, so unless you're using it for a PTU repair, it's probably gonna sit forever, as there's no service interval on this fluid.

The Haldex fluid part number is Motorcraft XL-13, but even at wholesale prices it's cheaper to buy the Volvo equivalent at retail.

 

[chevrofreak]

We have it on close-out for $9 per 2 bottle case. Some of the cases look rough, some of the caps are broken, but the seals are intact. If you want it, I can hook you up with some contact info. It wouldn't be helping me directly, but it would help clear some shelf space where I work.

 

[benjy]

reviving an older post for newer users. my 2001 TT 225Q had 37,xxx on it when purchased in 2011 according to carfax + as i generally do changed all fluids. the haldex being new to me required some internet searching, + as usual got what i needed to know. bought a Bentley factory manual as well as i am a DIY guy. draining the fluid was easy as was filling it + the $60 specialty wrench makes the filter change pretty easy as well, i note be gentle on the small drain plug!!! i used the VW-audi haldex fluid in the tube, but later wondered about cheaper options. worse of all fluids was the tranny lube, it was shifting less than good but the Redline MT-90 cured that + dont forget to drain the bevel box as well. i really enjoy my first roadster!!! the older TT's are glorified VW golf's but the upper models like my 225Q roadster are great. less costlier FWD's were available as well + can be a fun + sporty lower cost option similar to any 2001 golf with a bit more stock power + many nicer options like any audi

 

[littlehulkster]

Originally Posted by Cup of Joe
Ford defined lifetime for the new fiesta.

Quote
The available class-exclusive* PowerShift six-speed automatic provides torque to the wheels 100 percent of the time, for an extra-connected feel. It�s equipped with a leak-free dry clutch technology and a neutral idle mode that helps eliminate drag and contributes to fuel efficiency. It�s also maintenance-free � with a fill-for-life transmission fluid that requires no dipstick � and designed to last up to 150,000 miles.



http://www.fordvehicles.com/cars/fiesta/features/#page=Feature2


Even that's pretty optimistic, as the life of a PowerShift tends to be less than half that.