ford taurus 5W30

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Originally Posted By: earlyre


what you are missing is that for the VAST majority of the time this engine was made (Right here in my town btw), it was spec'd for a 30 weight oil. my mom's 99 taurus, all 5 of the Aerostars dad had as company cars, by buddy's 97 taurus, and his grandma's 96 sable ALL had this engine, and all were spec'd for a 5w30(though i'm pretty sure dad ran 10w30 in the vans). Ford Retro'd the specs for nearly all their vehicles to 5w20 a few yrs ago (mainly to increase fuel economy to meet CAFE standards)


I'm not missing anything. Really, I'm not.

1. just because CAFE standards are the driver of lower-viscosity oils, doens't mean they don't protect as well, or better, than the previously spec'd oils. This false dichotomy simply will not die, but it doesn't mean it's true.

2. A car seeing trips of 4 miles is not going to get up to operating temps. The oil will likely not get past 130F degrees. That would put a 5W20 right about twice as thick as a 20W50 would be at full operating temperatures. If the oil makes it up to 175F (which isn't gonna happen in the first 20 minutes of operation), that will put it right around the thickness of a 20W50.

Again, the ambient temperatures are irrelevant. This engine will be spending all of its time with oil that is much thicker than ideal. There's absolutely no benefit to using a thicker oil than spec'd in this situation--none.
 
I doubt you'd have an issue using any 5w30, the majortiy of this designs life was spec'd for 5-30, just in the last few years of it's run was it changed (And Retroactively @ that) to 5w20.

are you pushing for the supertec 5-30, cuz you have it lying around? or b/c it's "inexpensive", cuz looking @ the walmart website, with the location set as your city, the super tech 5-30 is $12.53, but the super tech5-20 is only $10 (5qt jug ea.)
that being said, the ford approved Motorcraft(Ford brand) 5-20 Syn-blend is $18.33 (5qt jug)so you are taking a difference of less than $10, and you could be using the exact oil & Filter she would get @ the ford dealer, and was the oil intended by the manufacturer...
 
leakyseals, youre right about our cars being at operating temp in the sun, when i get in my truck after being parked all day, its like an oven! id trade a super hot louisiana summer any day for one of those Northern state winters! lol i think ill go with the PYB.
 
Originally Posted By: JOD

I'm not missing anything. Really, I'm not.

1. just because CAFE standards are the driver of lower-viscosity oils, doens't mean they don't protect as well, or better, than the previously spec'd oils. This false dichotomy simply will not die, but it doesn't mean it's true.


Guess what I'm missing is the part where i said that one or the other wouldn't protect as well... i merely stated that the primary reason for the switch was fuel economy.

I also never said that by using the 5-20, rather than the 5-30, you are guaranteed to never hit a Sasquatch, no matter how true or false that statement my be. (I don't like folks putting words in my mouth, even when I'm talking out my [censored])
 
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Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
leakyseals, youre right about our cars being at operating temp in the sun, when i get in my truck after being parked all day, its like an oven! id trade a super hot louisiana summer any day for one of those Northern state winters! lol i think ill go with the PYB.


Here was your temps last June when I was down there. One day under 90F. Sun was way stronger than up north. Makes sense who dats like it thick. Maybe see you in the superbowl!
 
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
leakyseals, youre right about our cars being at operating temp in the sun, when i get in my truck after being parked all day, its like an oven! id trade a super hot louisiana summer any day for one of those Northern state winters! lol i think ill go with the PYB.


Interior temp has zero to do with engine temps under the hood, as already stated many times over, at two miles(half of the round trip) this engine will never see a normal oil temp...
 
Won't hurt a thing. We had this engine in a Ranger and only used M1 10-30 for the 354K miles that we owned the truck. Ir was sold last year and the engine still ran very good.
 
Alright, no one else said it so I will.

This is NOT your car, so why use anything other than what the manufacturer recommended? Remember, when it blows up, YOU were the last one to work on it.

Yes, I know that's highly unlikely, but I still don't think you should "experiment" with someone else's car unless they're fully aware and they approve. Use what the book says.

(NOMEX suit on)
 
No flame hear, I'd wouldn't hesitate to buy Motorcraft 5w20 synthetic blend, reasonably priced and a darn good oil.

In sell cases on cases of the stuff.
 
it isnt an experiment. its a 3.0 vulcan v6, known for its reliability and longevity, and previously spec'd for 5W30. and the owner was fully aware that i was using 5W30.
 
mobilaltima:
Are you Dead Certain it's the Vulcan, and Not the Duratec 30?
Both were used in this Gen. of Taurus.
Not that it would change a thing in the advice, mostly just a curiosity of mine, since you can hardly swing a figurative cat around here w/o hitting some one that worked on the Vulcan Assembly line...(Duratec 3.0l made in Cleveland, Vulcan was here in Lima, where they now make the Duratec 3.5l (and i think the 3.7l as well))
kind of a local pride thing.
 
While I realize that Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic Blend is not cheap cheap, I have on Oil Rack that goes on 'fore ever' with a massive selection. The Motorcraft Synthetic blend is not that much more than PYB. The difference is maybe $3-$4 on an oil change of 5 quarts. If you have a 5.4 triton a couple more.
 
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