for those that go two oci for one oil filter, do you remove the filter to dispose of the old oil and then slap it back on? or just leave it?
Using an oil filter for 2 oci..question
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I just don't get the concept given the cost of the car and the cost of a decent filter.
I take it off and drain out as much as I can and slap it back on. I do it quite often because I am not an extended drain guy. I try to use a good quality filter and I don't go over 10k, so two 5k intervals. The only filter I would take longer is the Napa Platinum.
IF I believed in this I would certainly drain it during an oil change.
Patman
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If I was to ever run an oil filter for 2 changes, I would simply leave it untouched. If I'm going to go through the hassle of taking it off and spilling oil all over the place, I might as well slap a new one on there! IMO, the only reason I would probably go 2 changes on one filter would be if I owned a car with a filter that was a PITA to change, and that way at least I'd only have to deal with it every other change.
i run all my filters two oci's not because i am cheap (i am) but because i dont like the dry starts associated with a new filter
Originally Posted By: Patman
If I was to ever run an oil filter for 2 changes, I would simply leave it untouched. If I'm going to go through the hassle of taking it off and spilling oil all over the place ...
Not to mention that the base gasket has taken a set (and is flattened out), and so there's a risk of possible leakage if removed and reinstalled.
If I was to ever run an oil filter for 2 changes, I would simply leave it untouched. If I'm going to go through the hassle of taking it off and spilling oil all over the place ...
Not to mention that the base gasket has taken a set (and is flattened out), and so there's a risk of possible leakage if removed and reinstalled.
I don't know, but as I'm likely going to run a Bosch D+ two OCI's in my Honda, I'll have to decide this soon too.
ZO brings up a good point about the gasket setting the first time. As mine is verticle thread end up, I 'might' loosen, drain and retighten. But with all the oil left in the galleries anyway it probably doesn't make a big difference.
Waiting for the first D U analogy. Most here likely know what D U means.
ZO brings up a good point about the gasket setting the first time. As mine is verticle thread end up, I 'might' loosen, drain and retighten. But with all the oil left in the galleries anyway it probably doesn't make a big difference.
Waiting for the first D U analogy. Most here likely know what D U means.
I remove and dump. So far, no leaks at the gasket.
I am debating doing this but have some uneasy feelings about it...I would defintely keep an eye out for leaks though if I dumped out the oil and reinstalled it.
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I wouldn't remove it. Your probably getting dirt and unfiltered oil in the clean side of the filter.
cool....im going to start using my pureone filters for 2 oci. everytime i change my oil at 4-5k, it looks brand new in there.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Not to mention that the base gasket has taken a set (and is flattened out), and so there's a risk of possible leakage if removed and reinstalled.
After prolonged exposure to heat the mounting gasket also hardens up unless it has a high silicone content. If the gasket isn't pliable you can't expect it to seal very well.
Not to mention that the base gasket has taken a set (and is flattened out), and so there's a risk of possible leakage if removed and reinstalled.
After prolonged exposure to heat the mounting gasket also hardens up unless it has a high silicone content. If the gasket isn't pliable you can't expect it to seal very well.
Originally Posted By: MrBiglund
the oil left in the filter is negligible, i wouldn't bother removing it.
That depends on the filter- my pickup filter probably holds over a quart.
the oil left in the filter is negligible, i wouldn't bother removing it.
That depends on the filter- my pickup filter probably holds over a quart.
If someone wants to do this there are a couple issues.
The gasket set is one. Depending on the durometer of the gasket, which dictates the hardness, you might have bits of it left on the filter base which you clean off. This degredation can make resealing a problem.
Draining the filter if you do remove it:
If your filter has an anti-drainback valve the oil you will get out is mainly the oil down the center tube.
What you need to do is invert the filter and let it drain for 24 hours. This is the recommendation for disposing of used oil filters. Why 24 hours? Because the media is saturated with oil.
Even without the ADBV, the saturation will still leak oil after 24 hours.
Don't beleive me. Drain one for 24 hours. Then put a clean wrag underneath and come back hours later.
So back to Joe mechanic turning his filter upside down and draining it, then putting it back on within 1/2 an hour when changing the oil, it helps but may not entirely be the best cause of action.
Speaking of ADBV's...if yours has hardened during your use then the other rubber seals internally probably have as well. Do you want to put that filter back on? The flexability of the ADBV may impact it's ability to cover the inlet holes and perform it's task.
Also, someone mentioned dry starting the engine with a new filter. Takes less than a second for the oil to flow and lube the engine. That's what the by-pass valve is there for, to allow oil into the engine when there is no flow out of a new oil filter. As the filter fills with oil and allows oil downstream, then the by-pass valve will close. In lab testing this takes seconds on an automotive filter. As they do not prefil the filters for test purposes.
The gasket set is one. Depending on the durometer of the gasket, which dictates the hardness, you might have bits of it left on the filter base which you clean off. This degredation can make resealing a problem.
Draining the filter if you do remove it:
If your filter has an anti-drainback valve the oil you will get out is mainly the oil down the center tube.
What you need to do is invert the filter and let it drain for 24 hours. This is the recommendation for disposing of used oil filters. Why 24 hours? Because the media is saturated with oil.
Even without the ADBV, the saturation will still leak oil after 24 hours.
Don't beleive me. Drain one for 24 hours. Then put a clean wrag underneath and come back hours later.
So back to Joe mechanic turning his filter upside down and draining it, then putting it back on within 1/2 an hour when changing the oil, it helps but may not entirely be the best cause of action.
Speaking of ADBV's...if yours has hardened during your use then the other rubber seals internally probably have as well. Do you want to put that filter back on? The flexability of the ADBV may impact it's ability to cover the inlet holes and perform it's task.
Also, someone mentioned dry starting the engine with a new filter. Takes less than a second for the oil to flow and lube the engine. That's what the by-pass valve is there for, to allow oil into the engine when there is no flow out of a new oil filter. As the filter fills with oil and allows oil downstream, then the by-pass valve will close. In lab testing this takes seconds on an automotive filter. As they do not prefil the filters for test purposes.
Originally Posted By: Filter guy
Draining the filter if you do remove it:
If your filter has an anti-drainback valve the oil you will get out is mainly the oil down the center tube.
What you need to do is invert the filter and let it drain for 24 hours. This is the recommendation for disposing of used oil filters. Why 24 hours? Because the media is saturated with oil.
I've left a filter with base down for a week and it was basically still full of oil. The only way to ensure you get all the oil out of the filter is to prop open the ADBV to allow all the internal oil between the media and can drain out.
See this thread for details:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...807#Post2042807
Draining the filter if you do remove it:
If your filter has an anti-drainback valve the oil you will get out is mainly the oil down the center tube.
What you need to do is invert the filter and let it drain for 24 hours. This is the recommendation for disposing of used oil filters. Why 24 hours? Because the media is saturated with oil.
I've left a filter with base down for a week and it was basically still full of oil. The only way to ensure you get all the oil out of the filter is to prop open the ADBV to allow all the internal oil between the media and can drain out.
See this thread for details:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...807#Post2042807
Originally Posted By: Filter guy
Also, someone mentioned dry starting the engine with a new filter. Takes less than a second for the oil to flow and lube the engine. That's what the by-pass valve is there for, to allow oil into the engine when there is no flow out of a new oil filter. As the filter fills with oil and allows oil downstream, then the by-pass valve will close. In lab testing this takes seconds on an automotive filter. As they do not prefil the filters for test purposes.
Normally, there isn't enough delta P across the media during a dry start to cause a filter's by-pass valve to open. The oil flow volume at start-up is pretty low, which will not allow much of a PSID across the media ... unless the oil is super thick as in a very cold start-up condition. PSID is a function of media resistance, oil volume and oil viscosity.
Also, someone mentioned dry starting the engine with a new filter. Takes less than a second for the oil to flow and lube the engine. That's what the by-pass valve is there for, to allow oil into the engine when there is no flow out of a new oil filter. As the filter fills with oil and allows oil downstream, then the by-pass valve will close. In lab testing this takes seconds on an automotive filter. As they do not prefil the filters for test purposes.
Normally, there isn't enough delta P across the media during a dry start to cause a filter's by-pass valve to open. The oil flow volume at start-up is pretty low, which will not allow much of a PSID across the media ... unless the oil is super thick as in a very cold start-up condition. PSID is a function of media resistance, oil volume and oil viscosity.
I reuse some filters, but only from collector cars that had very few miles on them. Like 2-3 hundred miles or so. I use them on my work car.
Originally Posted By: ZeeOSix
Originally Posted By: Filter guy
Also, someone mentioned dry starting the engine with a new filter. Takes less than a second for the oil to flow and lube the engine. That's what the by-pass valve is there for, to allow oil into the engine when there is no flow out of a new oil filter. As the filter fills with oil and allows oil downstream, then the by-pass valve will close. In lab testing this takes seconds on an automotive filter. As they do not prefil the filters for test purposes.
Normally, there isn't enough delta P across the media during a dry start to cause a filter's by-pass valve to open. The oil flow volume at start-up is pretty low, which will not allow much of a PSID across the media ... unless the oil is super thick as in a very cold start-up condition. PSID is a function of media resistance, oil volume and oil viscosity.
As you are aware, fluid takes the least resistance to flow. So with the filter being dry the by-pass will open and by-pass the dry element.
Depends on where the by-pass is mounted how far the fluid must travel; Engine block, engine end of the element, or dome end of the element. Typically you have about twice the GPM flow from the oil pump and regulating valve when you start the vehicle after changing oil. In the neighborhood of 80GPM instead of 40GPM for a car engine. So it doesn't take long for the by-pass to kick in.
But in lab tests, a dry filter generally fills within seconds and flow is coming out of the element.
As another example Caterpillar Engine Division has a recommendation NOT to prefill their oil filter. Those filters are about 8 inches tall and 4 inch OD. So a big element. How long do you think it takes to fill that? The by-pass is in the block.
Caterpillars position is based on their testing and inspection of maintenance procedures which leads to contaminant being induced to the "clean side" of the filter. When you prefill the filter new oil is not 100% contaminant free. Along with the chance of added induced contaminant from sources like the shop air, off the mechanic, any appliance (like a funnel or motorized apparatus) used to prefill, etc. So they prefer the oil to pass through the element and be filtered first.
Originally Posted By: Filter guy
Also, someone mentioned dry starting the engine with a new filter. Takes less than a second for the oil to flow and lube the engine. That's what the by-pass valve is there for, to allow oil into the engine when there is no flow out of a new oil filter. As the filter fills with oil and allows oil downstream, then the by-pass valve will close. In lab testing this takes seconds on an automotive filter. As they do not prefil the filters for test purposes.
Normally, there isn't enough delta P across the media during a dry start to cause a filter's by-pass valve to open. The oil flow volume at start-up is pretty low, which will not allow much of a PSID across the media ... unless the oil is super thick as in a very cold start-up condition. PSID is a function of media resistance, oil volume and oil viscosity.
As you are aware, fluid takes the least resistance to flow. So with the filter being dry the by-pass will open and by-pass the dry element.
Depends on where the by-pass is mounted how far the fluid must travel; Engine block, engine end of the element, or dome end of the element. Typically you have about twice the GPM flow from the oil pump and regulating valve when you start the vehicle after changing oil. In the neighborhood of 80GPM instead of 40GPM for a car engine. So it doesn't take long for the by-pass to kick in.
But in lab tests, a dry filter generally fills within seconds and flow is coming out of the element.
As another example Caterpillar Engine Division has a recommendation NOT to prefill their oil filter. Those filters are about 8 inches tall and 4 inch OD. So a big element. How long do you think it takes to fill that? The by-pass is in the block.
Caterpillars position is based on their testing and inspection of maintenance procedures which leads to contaminant being induced to the "clean side" of the filter. When you prefill the filter new oil is not 100% contaminant free. Along with the chance of added induced contaminant from sources like the shop air, off the mechanic, any appliance (like a funnel or motorized apparatus) used to prefill, etc. So they prefer the oil to pass through the element and be filtered first.
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