Thinking of Seafoam

[wallyuwl]

Thinking of running Seafoam. I have the 1ZZ-FE Toyota engine (found in Vibes, Matrixs, and 9th gen Corollas).

Anyone know what intake hose I should pour the Seaforma into? If possible a pic would be great.

Also, I've read you should change your plugs after this. Necessary?

 

[FirstNissan]

Just seafoamed last weekend, 2001 prizm(corolla clone). After seafoam, drive for 30-40 miles, most likely CEL will pop up for multiple cylinder misfire, change your plugs.
I put it into the brake booster hose, as well as the engine oil. First time using, the CEL scared the [censored] out of me, changed the plugs, did an oil and filter change, cleaned the MAF sensor, car drives great now, feels more peppy, better MPG, quiter at idle.

 

[ltslimjim]

^I prefer a top-end cleaner foam spray, but Sea Foam is capable in an overall good running engine as per the brake booster method, yet may push an 02 sensor or spark plug(s) into the grave. At least, one that had a foot in there already. Though, either method could cause this if carbon comes off in chunks(hopefully not and just dissolves what it can).

Otherwise, there is a small chance of doing it wrong, from what I hear regarding hydrolock. Any one cylinder can get flooded if you allow the car to choke and cut off this way. Others have recommended that, but just pouring it VERY slowly into the brake booster and making sure the engine stays on isn't going to cause this.

Personally? I'd only do this just prior to an oil change.

 

[wallyuwl]

Originally Posted By: FirstNissan
I put it into the brake booster hose,


Which one is that? Is it the one you can hardly see behind the throttle body (unless you take off the throttle body)? Or a different one?

I might wait until I do the next oil change. Put some in the oil a few hundred miles before it is due. Then do the oil change, Seafoam into the intake, and new plugs all at once.

 

[wallyuwl]

Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
^I prefer a top-end cleaner foam spray, but Sea Foam is capable in an overall good running engine as per the brake booster method, yet may push an 02 sensor or spark plug(s) into the grave. At least, one that had a foot in there already.


How likely is it to cause an O2 sensor to go bad? I will replace the plugs when I do it, even though it wouldn't need them (unless the SF process fouled them). But I just replaced both O2 sensors (pre and post cat) and really don't want one of those to be harmed.

Engine has been well taken care of. Runs well. More of a "see what it does to improve things" type of thing for using the SF.

 

[dparm]

Very likely. Just pull the sensors.

 

[crazyoildude]

problem os where do u get the foam spray?

 

[crazyoildude]

if you get a cel it will probably correct itself if you want change the plugs but i never had the need to
A word of caution i used sea foam on a 90 gm 3.1 and it took out 3 injectors (they were going bad anyway 323,000 miles) but it did clean things up very well.

 

[Letter_K]

I was able to get Sea Foam spray at Advance Auto. If you are worried about the vac line method it might be a better option. Search Sea Foam spray and you'll find their website with videos for both methods. Either way is pretty easy unless access is an issue.

With the spray you put the hose in the air intake hose after the air filter and mass air flow sensor run the engine and spray away.

 

[ltslimjim]

@OP, new sensor may not get fouled, but one that was used for a long time already? Possibly, if enough carbon is shot out of the exhaust, unburned chemical/fluid may ruin the sensor. It is POSSIBLE, more likely the carbon. Sea Foam says 02 sensor safe, but it's really not 'safe' for tons of carbon to pass by it, on the other hand anyway. So, go in prepared to potentially replace a sensor. If a CEL somes on, clear the codes and start driving again if the light stays on. I've had it come on and then turn off before. FWIW.

@crazyoildude, I purchase Amsoil's Power Foam product online. I started doing this after having moderate success using Mopar's Combustion Chamber Cleaner, found at most Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealers with parts department. Both are sprayed directly into the intake(unless you have a MAF sensor...then you MUST avoid it and/or find an alternate way for the foam to spray into the engine. Of course, the engine dies if the MAF is unplugged. Also, the Power Foam seemed to foam up more than the Mopar product. Shaking the can prior VIGOROUSLY is important. Also, as much as you can while spraying it. It should come out foaming.

Ideally finding a vacuum into the engine that will reach all of the cylinders from the intake manifold/runners etc. Then you just spray in(dont spray any plastic/rubbers etc) to give the top end a good soak while running at full temp. You DO turn the car off when the can empties, ASAP(I have a friend turn it off) or unplug the MAF/MAP sensor in order to keep as much in there as possible. I prefer Amsoil because you get a bigger can(by 4 or 5 ounces?) and it takes a good 5-10 minutes to spray the contents in continuously. I'm about to perform this on a friend's Titan in about 1-2 hours.

I do personally like to drain the oil immediately after any top-end cleaning like this, also I pull any oil sample I may want before use to avoid contaminating anything regarding the oil. This product definitely mixes with some of the oil unless your rings are sealing near perfectly etc still...residual/cylinder wash is possible.

My experience so far(btw idle the engine RPMs to 1,200-1,500, another reason for a 2nd person)...+1 for the idea on using the Sea Foam spray. That one I'd use straight into the intake if possible. Sometimes you have to find a breather vacuum for the intake manifold into the engine if a MAF is present.

PS: I let it sit for an hour, but that is not the instructions on either can. Sea Foam I'd not let soak, at least not the liquid.

 

[Trajan]

I use Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner now.

It's cheaper than seafoam, and I can spray it so it goes through the TB.

No worries about hydro lock or engine stumbling.

 

[mechtech2]

Use a cleaner in the tank.
Slower and more effective.
No plug or neighborhood fouling, either!

 

[wallyuwl]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Use a cleaner in the tank.
Slower and more effective.
No plug or neighborhood fouling, either!


Is this as effective as putting the cleaner directly into the cumbustion chamber? I used fuel system cleaner in the tank (usually Valvoline Synpower or Shell) every 3-4k miles.

 

[wallyuwl]

Been looking up the Mopar CCC. Looks like good stuff. And is a foam, which would be preferred to the Seafoam liquid. Also looks like it is easy to do, just take off the air cleaner hose from the throttle body and spray directly into the throttle body and let the engine suck it in.



Only concerns are possible fouling of O2 sensor(s) and/or catalytic converter clogging. But it seems like the only real issues people have are with spark plugs, when they have any issues at all. Engine and fuel system has been maintained so I wouldn't suspect that huge carbon chunks would be breaking loose and not be able to be dissolved. Hmmm...

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
Thinking of running Seafoam. I have the 1ZZ-FE Toyota engine (found in Vibes, Matrixs, and 9th gen Corollas).

Anyone know what intake hose I should pour the Seaforma into? If possible a pic would be great.

Also, I've read you should change your plugs after this. Necessary?


I think one important detail left out of all of this is, what is the goal or issue you are addressing?

Personally I regard Seafoam as one of the more hardcore remedies. There are situations where that might be the desired remedy, but for others you can achieve the same end with something a bit gentler.

For simply cleaning a mild to moderate dirty engine I prefer MMO. Depending on how dirty it is, you can pick from either the standard 1 quart per four quarts of oil, or half that and just use a pint of it. For extra kick it can be combined with a high detergent/dispersant synthetic (like PP or Ultra) or an HDEO. Results are not instantaneous, but they come all the same, and its both a simple method and a safe one (ruining plugs or sensors are non-issues with this route).

I used about a pint or so of MMO combined with PP over a 3k cleaning OCI on my own 1ZZ-FE with good results. The engine was heavily varnished with evidence of some sludge present as well. This was last summer after buying the car; the factory PCV valve was completely plugged up and replacing that, combined with some elbow grease to clean out the throttle body by hand, followed up with a few 3k OCIs including the MMO one, as well a couple PEA cycles, and it is day and night compared to when I bought it.

-Spyder

 

[ltslimjim]

While I can see/agree where Spyder is coming from, personally I've had no problems using the foam top-end cleaners. I've never used Sea Foam in the method described, only through the gas and added to the oil. I would say if you suspect engine sludge at all(aside from carbon deposits here/there, not severely caked on etc)...then another route; especially the one laid out in his post, is definitely more advisable.

On a vehicle you know the history of, or have restored from 'neglected' status already(after the method Spyder mentioned for instance), is a great time to get any more out if desired. Let the product soak(cut the engine off as soon as the can empties) for about 1 hour. Idling prior to Full temp(drive for a nice warmup if possible), on a hot day(if possible), and close the engine's hood during the 'waiting' period, unless you have to keep it up for some reason or another.

It is definitely easier to use on a vehicle without a MAF. The simplest of methods is removal of the intake tubing and spraying directly into the intake(most situations allow for enough room to get a decent angle to spray mostly upright/can shaking periodically is a must).

I wouldn't recommend trying it first on a MAF equipped vehicle(after today's experience on my friend's Titan truck) without first examining how to ingest the product safely/sanely(the can needs to be upright if at all possible or you'll only get half the can emptied), and avoid any route that may allow for puddling or backwash back towards the MAF.

Like in my friend's app today, the last resort was removing the breather box off of the intake(past the MAF) and inserting a funnel(huge breather, needed 'partial' sealing to increase vacuum). This worked and the can could be shaken/all contents emptied while upright above the engine. We wasted part of the can during the process today trying to make it work past the MAF at a break in the tubing prior to the TB(too much trouble and can had to be at an angle), but in the end it still generated a small smoke show even for our lack of efficiency. FWIW, his engine has ran on synthetic for a long time and I doubt he has any sludge or loads/loads of carbon deposits.

This product dissolves carbon, it would take a real chunk to clog a cat, and actually may help partially 'unclog' one that has minor-moderate carbon fouling. 02 sensors and spark plugs, OTOH, that are near death...probably will go. I've not had this happen in my experience, but it is possible.

 

[ahoier]

You can go multiple routes. The new "Seafoam spray" seems to be the easier and better way of getting this job done, WITHOUT the need for 2 people (one to pour the seafoam, another to sit in the driver seat adjusting the gas pedal and killing the engine)...from the looks of the documentation, you set up the intake hose through the air filter boot, and position the straw so it trickles into/on the manifold butterfly opening. Basically, set it all up, turn the car on to get it warmed up, then hit the On button on the seafoam can, and it'll empty the can into the intake in a matter of minutes, as you adjust the throttle from the driver seat.

As you are treating the top-end, you may as well add a can to the fuel tank as well, to clean up your injectors during the process...

And also go ahead and add 4-7.5 oz. of Seafoam to the motor oil (based on the crankcase capacity....basically, guesstimate 1.5 oz. of Seafoam per quart of Oil...).


I've done this routine on my previous "pre owned" Kias and I noticed a change in engine sound after driving the first 100 miles with the Seafoam in the crankcase. It quieted down my motor, when everyone else was telling me to put 10W-40 into the 2008 Optima, with only 32k on the clock.....I was like no way...not in this 2.4L with such low models.....so I ran the Seafoam in the crankcase for about 2 months, the noise actually disappeared the next morning when I drove the car to work....to this day, still don't know if it "cleaned up" soemthing that was stuck, or if it just happened to "thin out" the oil enough to make it flow just that much better, eliminating the "click" at cold-start.


Seafoam can be used in the crankcase for the length of a typical OCI (3k/3months)....I know some people will not follow this, in fear that the seafoam will cause the engine to throw a rod, etc...but I've not seen a problem with driving the Seafoam the whole OCI.

But lately, I've been only using MMO in the crankcase - no noticable effect on the butt-dyno, but the oil is still coming out black, so it's cleaning up something......

 

[PZR2874]

You can put it through any vacuum hose as long as it's prior to the throttle body OR as long as it hits every cylinder. Never tried the "spray"... Haven't ever seen it.

 

[wallyuwl]

Got a couple cans of the Mopar stuff for $7 each from the Dodge dealer. Will try it prior to the next OC, and also change the plugs. From the research I've done I am confident the O2 sensors and cat won't be harmed using the Mopar stuff.

Will also try it prior to the next OC in the Equinox, but don't plan on changing the plugs. That vehicle only has 28k on it and has seen 5-6 bottles of fuel system cleaner, so the plugs should get through the process fine.