A/C compressor replacement.. DIY?

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Is a compressor replacement (in a Ranger) a DIY proposition? I don't mind buying the vacuum pump, and figure that the compressor, and dryer both need replacing...
 
The vac pump to do a/c work is ultra money, also you can't evac the system and disconnect it leaving it open to air because you can't have air in the system or the dryer is junk....also it is a federal law that you MUST be licensed to touch the ac system and evacuate it even if it's r134......so no go on the diy
 
I believe you can get a basic vacuum pump good enough for automotive work for around $130 (or less). There was a thread in the Tools section about it.

This can definatly be a DIY job. When I did the compressor on our van, I had a shop evac the system before removal, and then pull a vacuum on it once I had it all back together. I replaced nothing but the compressor (with a used one) and the system cools wonderfully.

All told the shop labor came to around $80, much cheaper than having them do everything. Next time I need to do something like this though, I'll probably just have them pull the refrigerant out, and purchase a vac pump so I can do the second pull myself.

Here's a link to the pump thread:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1911173#Post1911173


I used to be a little intimidated by A/C work, but no more. It's really not very hard to do properly.
 
Originally Posted By: Cause4Alarm
The vac pump to do a/c work is ultra money, also you can't evac the system and disconnect it leaving it open to air because you can't have air in the system or the dryer is junk....also it is a federal law that you MUST be licensed to touch the ac system and evacuate it even if it's r134......so no go on the diy
Where did you hear this? If you work at a shop you must be licensed but a DIY does not.
 
A DIYer can pour antifreeze down the local sewer drain.
He can use R134a to power horns at sporting events.

Odd, but true.

Anyway, yes, you can do it yourself. But count on doing more than you presently think! You really should flush the system to lean it out [unless you know there is no particulate matter in it].
Maybe add some oil, as well. It depends on how much is in the compressor.
I'd get a new orifice valve, or clean the present one.
Maybe seals [O rings] to get fresh ones .

And you can RENT the tools for cheap money.
 
no need to buy a vacuum pump (unless you want to) most auto parts chain will rent them. Also you will need a gauge set (can rent those too). You will also need a can tapper to go with the gauge set.

big +1 on replacing your orifice tube if you have one. It has a fine mesh screen that will build up with derbies from normal compressor wear or a compressor failure.

another +1 on the drier, which is an often over looked item. It is basically a can with desiccant in it. Also it serves as a collection area for any refrigerant that is still liquid so the compressor doesn't hydrolock.

don't forget some oil if it is stock r134a it will be a PAG oil in one of the 3 weights 50, 100, or 150. usually compressors have around 2 fl oz. and depending on the size of drier around 2 or 3 fl oz.

I would also get a oring kit and any connection you undo gets new ones.
 
you have to know how to get the right balance of refrigerant in the system too. I replaced a compressor and had a friend use his vacuum pump and put in the right amount of refrigerant. Too much or too little and it won't cool as well. If you know what you are doing and take your time, you can probably get the system working better than the average tech.
 
Originally Posted By: Burt
you have to know how to get the right balance of refrigerant in the system too. I replaced a compressor and had a friend use his vacuum pump and put in the right amount of refrigerant. Too much or too little and it won't cool as well. If you know what you are doing and take your time, you can probably get the system working better than the average tech.


+1 Forgot to mention another great tool is a thermometer to stick in the A/C vent. This helps when trying to fine tune it.
 
First pull out the orifice tube. If it has metal shavings on it, you need to flush out (or replace) the evaporator and all the lines, and REPLACE the condenser, accumulator/drier, and orifice tube in addition to the compressor. If you don't do that, you'll destroy the new compressor and you'll be right back at square one. Usually when these compressors go, they basically grind themselves up inside and spew metal shavings and junk throughout the whole system, so flushing out/replacing everything is necessary.

If you want to save some money, you should be able to find a good, low mileage compressor from a junkyard. Ford used those compressors in a LOT of different vehicles, including a lot of newer models. I got one with only 49k miles on it for about $80 including shipping off eBay.
 
There are kits on ebay. I bought one for my Sable Duratec. Compressor with clutch etc.Harbor freight sells both a vacuum pump and a set of gauges inexpensively.
 
Originally Posted By: exranger06
First pull out the orifice tube. If it has metal shavings on it, you need to flush out (or replace) the evaporator and all the lines, and REPLACE the condenser, accumulator/drier, and orifice tube in addition to the compressor. If you don't do that, you'll destroy the new compressor and you'll be right back at square one. Usually when these compressors go, they basically grind themselves up inside and spew metal shavings and junk throughout the whole system, so flushing out/replacing everything is necessary.

If you want to save some money, you should be able to find a good, low mileage compressor from a junkyard. Ford used those compressors in a LOT of different vehicles, including a lot of newer models. I got one with only 49k miles on it for about $80 including shipping off eBay.


I agree, before you do anything start with this.

Although, I don't like the idea of using a junkyard compressor. As I tried that once, and it lasted about 2 weeks before I had to start the whole process over.
mad.gif


Check ebay for rebuilt compressor kits. I'm running one and so far so good.

I had a shop vacuum and charge the system, cost about $125.
 
If you're good with clean mechanical work and following directions, replacing an AC compressor is definitely DIY-able.

Cause4Alarm way overstated the legal issues. You cannot legally *vent* an AC system, even one filled with R-134a (although you can go to Office Depot and buy all the cans of "electronics duster" you want, which is R-134a, but I digress). You can have the system evacuated by a garage with a recovery system, then you can do all the rest of the work yourself. Including re-charging it with R-134a.
 
A thermometer for the vents, and one to put a few inches in front of the condenser are needed for best filling.


BUT!
A system should have a sticker telling you exactly how much it needs! And in truth, there is some variation - a couple ounces either way won't matter.
So when filling new, I'd use the mfrs. amount.
 
I didn't over state anything...... The language documentation that goes with my MACS license does not differentiate between shops or diy, it just says it is to be serviced by a licensed person only.....which I am
 
Although when I got the license it was known as IMACA and the credentials transferred over to the new MACS license, not sure if anything changed
 
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