What is difference between M1 0-40, 5-40, 10-40?

[Islandvic]

I need to use up some B3G3 Free M1 Coupons.

The oil is for '95 GMC K1500 w/350TBI and 170k+ miles. No leaks, with small but normal consumption. It is not driven much and used in South Texas, so there is no "cold weather" here. It will see city use and beach use with some 4x4 action in the sand.

What are the practical differences between M1 0-40, 5-40, and 10-40?

Are the add packs different? Does one weight shear more or less than others? Do they have different TBN's?

I have heard that M1 is on the "thin side" of the weights when comparing brands. Is this true with the x-40 weights?

I am looking for maximum protection, opposed to maximum efficiency.

Thanks guys....

 

[racer12306]

the 0w40 was designed for the euro cars and i think i remember someone mentioning that the 0w40 was a tad on the thin side for a 40wt. the 5w40 is a hdeo, it is very similar to the delvac 1 and both are highly regaurded as being some very robust oils. im not aware of a M1 10w40.

i mentioned in your other thread the 5w40. i personally would not hesitate to put that oil your engine at all. i actually am thinking about it with my neon.

 

[Audi Junkie]

M1 10w-40 EP, that would be a nice score @ B3G3 Free.

 

[racer12306]

wow, guess you learn something new all the time.

if i may post a question in relation to the 0w40. i think i have read that the 0w40 shears relatively quickly. is this correct? maybe this info can benefit both islandvic and myself.

 

[Winston]

There was a long long discussion about 0W40 and 5W40 oils a while ago. It got pretty heated and some members quit over the discussion. 0W40 was shown to shear a bit based on UOA data. However, that is not necessarily a bad thing. I believe the mfg's recommendations take that into account. That is why mfg's recommend Castrol's 0W30 along side Mobil's 0W40. In the end both oils run at approximately the same weight.

 

[Audity]

Winston, how DARE you post an informative, civil message on the 0W30/0W40/5W40 issue?

That kind of thing just isn't done around here. Please see that it doesn't happen again.

 

[moribundman]

That was really uncalled for, Winston.

 

[Islandvic]

Would Val MaxLife Synthetic be a better match to these vehicles over then mentioned M1 weights?

I can always pull the old "Wal-Mart Shuffle" and come out ahead.

 

[Dr. T]

The difference is the cold start capabilities. A 10W is good down to -25C, a 5W down to -30C and a 0W below -35C. Otherwise, the top end (high temp viscosity) is the same and will offer the same protection.

 

[John_E]

With a 1.8T engine in a VERY mild climate, I think Mobil 1 0W-40 during the warranty period and Mobil 1 5W-40 thereafter might be a sensible strategy.

 

[NewGuy]

I used my PepBoys coupons today to purchase some M1EP 5W30 and 10W30. I have been running the M1EP 10W30 in my 5.3L Tahoe for the past 5.5K miles. I can tell a big differene between M1 and M1EP in my engine. It does not have the noise issue and at 4K I was ready to change the M1. I am going to run the M1EP 10W30 for 7-9K miles and get a UOA.

I was going to try M1 T&SUV (5W40), but I am so happy with the EP product that I bought some more of it with my coupons. Based upon the data sheets, the EP products have slightly higher viscosities and higher HTHS. Just a thought!!

 

[Rev_Tim]

I've decided to get a lot more serious about my oil and filter. I have a 96 MB C220 with 62,000 miles on it. I bought it new and it had very light use until 2007. At that point it only had 26k on it. I have used full synthetic oil since the first oil change but haven't been rigorous with my choices assuming that all full syn oils are basically good and believing old assumptions (Fram still makes a good filter).
So, I am buying a PELA Oil Extractor and want to use the best possible oil and filter going forward. This site has really opened my eyes and I am grateful for it. What a find.
Now, to my question:
I am thinking the MAHLE oil filter would be a good choice. Most discussions seem to center around the screw on types and I don't see much on the insert types but I see that it is a respected brand. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail....6+50044+2044108

As to the oil, the manufacturer calls for M1 0-40. I can only get it by the quart where I live and it's $8 a quart. On the other hand WalMart has M1 in the 5 quart bottle for $21 but they don't have th 0-40. I can get the 0-30 Fuel efficiency or the 10-40 M1 for cars with over 75.000 miles. I am a little long in the tooth so I don't drive aggressively. Mainly around town but occasional 75-80 mph on the freeway too.

So, do I bite the economic bullet and get the 0-40 or save $4 a quart and get one of the other viscosities? If I go for the value, which would be best for me? I live in Minnesota so half the year we might see a few days of -20 and more than a few of -9.

Also, I see a lot of discussion about used oil analysis. Can someone expand on the subject. I have never had my used oil analyzed.. I never knew it was important or possible. How often should I do it and where is the best place to get it done at a reasonable price?
Thanks in advance for any input.

 

[mechtech2]

Rev - This is a true Lazarus post! Revived form the dead!
I am not a fan of used oil analysis. I would rather change the oil with the money. It can tell trends and certain problems, but results vary, and are not always reliable.
For the major things that may be wrong, there are other clues that will be there without the UOA.

 

[Rev_Tim]

That's what happens when one searches before posting... something I have been trained to do on some geek forums that don't suffer well people who post without reading the forum for a bit first.

I appreciate your POV on the oil analysis. I probably lean that way too unless there is a really good reason. Still looking for a well qualified opinion on my 0-40 vs 10-40 question. Not as much fun as the "less filling" vs "tastes great" feud but important non-the-less.

 

[Quattro Pete]

Rev_Tim,

Welcome to BITOG.

See if you can get your hands on Mobil1 5w-40. Most Walmarts carry it in 5qt jug containers. That would probably be the best middle ground. 10w-XX might not be optimal for cold starts in the dead of winter where you live.

Also, you haven't mentioned how frequently (in terms of miles but also in terms of time) you are planning to change your oil (and filter).

As for Mahle, they definitely make good filters. Mann and Hengst would be other good options.

 

[Rev_Tim]

I have normally changed every 5 - 6,000 miles now that I am using it more but have stretched it to 9,000 once. Previously, when I was only putting a few thousand miles a year, I would change every 6 months.

I'm still not sure how often I should change it but if I can get 6-8,000 miles between changes, that would be great. I am old school and can't seem to shake the every 3,000 miles that was preached to me for years and years so I start thinking about changing it then and get more nervous as the miles click on.

Also, I didn't see the 5-40 at walmart.. just the 0-30. 5-30 and 10-40.

 

[Quattro Pete]

You have a relatively large sump (for a 4-cyl engine) in this car. I think 10K miles is doable with M1. This may be one of these questions that used oil analysis might help with a little by telling you how much additive pack is left. FYI, I'm not telling you to do it at every oil change. I'm telling you to do it once just to see if you're not doing any harm by running long OCI.

I agree with others though that a $20 analysis has a lot of limitations.

Many people use Blackstone for analysis - they're one of the forum sponsors. I personally use Wearcheck if/when I get the urge to sample.

 

[BobFout]

Tim, no 5w40 of any kind (Mobil, Shell, Castrol) at auto parts stores in the area?

EDIT: Or Valvoline, Amsoil, Schaeffers, Redline,

 

[Quattro Pete]

Yeah, Shell Rotella T 5w-40 would be a good alternative. It's usually stocked at most Walmarts and other part stores.

 

[Rev_Tim]

now we're getting into the area of which oil is best. IF M1 is clearly superior to the other brands, then I would be inclined to stay with it. I have been using Castrol or Valvoline pure syn in the 5-XX or 10-XX viscosity but want to be more thoughtful about my decisions... so do I hear you telling me there isn't a lick of difference between M1 and all the others you mentioned?

Should my decision be which 5-40 to use instead of do I use Mobil 1 0-40 or 10-40?