Major Transmission Cooler Line Problem

[Bluestream]

My Daughter's Grand Am has been leaking transmission fluid from the cooler lines. I was going to just splice in some rubber line, but decided to get all new lines from the wreckers (for $25) I have been able to loosen all fitting except the lower fitting that goes into the rad. I have pulled as hard as I could and even broke my wrench pulling on it. I then cut the line to slip my 5/8 one to get the best grip. No room to use heat as the rad is plastic.

Any ideas how to get the fitting out? I am now looking at going back to the splice idea, but I would really like to replace these lines.

 

[beast3300]

Cut the lines at the fitting with side cuts then use a socket and ratchet.

 

[simple_gifts]

I had an issue such as this on my 1992 lesabre. A poorly designed bracket to hold the line ended up cutting it through by abrasion. I hacksawed the piece out and spliced in a hydraulic line with hose clamps.

Just offering my 2 cents. This is why i will never buy another AT car again. This is the only issue I have ever had with them and it has happened 3 times.

 

[Trav]

Originally Posted By: beast3300
Cut the lines at the fitting with side cuts then use a socket and ratchet.


+1 In addition you could spray it down with Kroil or similar,let sit then tap the fitting for a few min very lightly (short quick tapping works best) with a small ball peen hammer prior to trying to remove it.

 

[Chris142]

If you pull any harder on that line your going to rip the cooler fitting right out of the radiator.

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: beast3300
Cut the lines at the fitting with side cuts then use a socket and ratchet.


Thanks; 5/8 deep socket worked like a charm.

Here are the new lines installed and leak free. Thanks to all.

You guys in the rust free areas have no idea how good you have it...

 

[Kestas]

My commiserations. I replaced all the brake lines on my winter car after one of them sprung a leak (the remaining lines didn't look so hot). I've already replaced three sections of fuel line because of corrosion. My neighbor had similar issues.

I'm getting pretty good at the art of tube bending.
It's nearly impossible to own a car over 12-15 years old here in the rust belt unless you're a masochist.

 

[mechtech2]

Cutting brake or cooler lines and using a socket is a good trick.
Forget line wrenches for tough ones.

If you have to use a rubber line, use 2 clamps 180 rotated at each junction.

 

[bigmike]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Cutting brake or cooler lines and using a socket is a good trick.
Forget line wrenches for tough ones.

If you have to use a rubber line, use 2 clamps 180 rotated at each junction.


Are you saying to use 2 clamps for each connection? I'm just curious because I have a clamp that keeps leaking on one of my rubber AT lines.

 

[JakeR22]

Originally Posted By: bigmike
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Cutting brake or cooler lines and using a socket is a good trick.
Forget line wrenches for tough ones.

If you have to use a rubber line, use 2 clamps 180 rotated at each junction.


Are you saying to use 2 clamps for each connection? I'm just curious because I have a clamp that keeps leaking on one of my rubber AT lines.


Exactly. Use two.

 

[JakeR22]

Another trick, if all you can use is an open ended wrench like a line wrech, if there's room, once the wrench is on the fitting, use a vise grip over the wrench head to keep if from flexing.

 

[oilboy123]

I have good luck with fuel injection clamps. They are a pain to get on and off, but work well.

I thank my Lucky stars all the time that we don't have salt getting spread all over the roads.

Glad you got it handled. I will have to remember that tip for the future.

 

[severach]

Originally Posted By: bigmike
Are you saying to use 2 clamps for each connection? I'm just curious because I have a clamp that keeps leaking on one of my rubber AT lines.

Not only do you use two clamps, you use two fuel injection hose clamps that put even force all the way around. Don't use the common hose clamps with the serrates that tear up the rubber.

 

[hsd]

This might be one application where a small ATF leak would be beneficial to prevent corrosion. Now if I could just figure out to calibrate the leak

 

[bigmike]

Thanks for the help. Between this thread and the Magnefine thread, I think I've got a handle on the solution.

I apologize if I hijacked the thread!

 

[mechtech2]

Originally Posted By: hsd
This might be one application where a small ATF leak would be beneficial to prevent corrosion. Now if I could just figure out to calibrate the leak


You know, this is not just a quip.
I am dealing with a friend's rusted sub frame that is completely rusted out on one side, and perfect on the other from a main crank seal leak.

Anyways, the guys explained it right. My admonition of using two clamps is simply that, and having them oriented 180 deg apart is just a little trick to spread out the seal areas. This is more important with tiny clamps.

 

[oilboy123]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: hsd
This might be one application where a small ATF leak would be beneficial to prevent corrosion. Now if I could just figure out to calibrate the leak


You know, this is not just a quip.
I am dealing with a friend's rusted sub frame that is completely rusted out on one side, and perfect on the other from a main crank seal leak.

Anyways, the guys explained it right. My admonition of using two clamps is simply that, and having them oriented 180 deg apart is just a little trick to spread out the seal areas. This is more important with tiny clamps.


Problem with the worm drive clamps is they cause a ripple to go all the way around the hose. That's were the leak ends up. Never tried the 2 clamp route but I have seen reference to it before. I just use the FI clamps.

 

[Bluestream]

Originally Posted By: hsd
This might be one application where a small ATF leak would be beneficial to prevent corrosion. Now if I could just figure out to calibrate the leak


You are correct on the oil, however if the leak gets too big you are left at the side of the road.

That's why I have been oil spraying the underside of my cars for 25 years. This 99 Grand Am was bought used a 1 1/2 ago and the PO did not oil spray it. I am now dealing with the rusted fuel, brake, and tranny line. My 2001 Grand Am in in way better shape than the 99, but we bought than one new and it has been garage kept. It seems oil spray for the undercarriage is not popular in the US, not sure why...

Here is the stuff I use, but any oil will work. Chain saw bar oil has a tackifier and sticks at bit better that regular oil

Here is the bottom on my 10 year old Explorer:

 

[BuzzCut]

That is absolutely nasty and who would want to repair/work that? Anywhere you touch and that cra_p is on you. There are better solutions than that.