What does BITOG think of the italian tuneup??

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Originally Posted By: rcy
Originally Posted By: MrWideTires


My Beetle 2.0 ....well.. I'm trying to clean this thing
21.gif
, my sister has been driving it for years and everytime I change the oil (early) it comes out as black as it gets, and there is some visible heavy varnish. So lately I've been taking it and driving it like I stole it... (this thing is SOOO slow.. even with the 5spd)
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It's called the 2.SLOW for a reason. I know, my wife had a 2000 Beetle. So the slow is not surprising - the black oil...who knows. Remember that oil colour is not a good indicator of anything except what colour the oil is.

I know the recommended oil for my wife's 2000 was Xw40. Why don't you run a good heavy duty diesel 40 weight through for the extra cleaning (or Auto-RX it).



Sometimes after driving my SpecV for a whole day.. I get in the beetle and I feel like I'm not moving, I have to redline it through every gear to get it moving fast
21.gif
I'm using Mobil 0w40.. which is known for cleaning plus it's the recommended oil, and I've tried using Rotella T 5w40 before which is really known for cleaning everything up... and the oil still comes out the most black out of all my cars.
 
Originally Posted By: MrWideTires
Originally Posted By: rcy
Originally Posted By: MrWideTires


My Beetle 2.0 ....well.. I'm trying to clean this thing
21.gif
, my sister has been driving it for years and everytime I change the oil (early) it comes out as black as it gets, and there is some visible heavy varnish. So lately I've been taking it and driving it like I stole it... (this thing is SOOO slow.. even with the 5spd)
----------




It's called the 2.SLOW for a reason. I know, my wife had a 2000 Beetle. So the slow is not surprising - the black oil...who knows. Remember that oil colour is not a good indicator of anything except what colour the oil is.

I know the recommended oil for my wife's 2000 was Xw40. Why don't you run a good heavy duty diesel 40 weight through for the extra cleaning (or Auto-RX it).



Sometimes after driving my SpecV for a whole day.. I get in the beetle and I feel like I'm not moving, I have to redline it through every gear to get it moving fast
21.gif
I'm using Mobil 0w40.. which is known for cleaning plus it's the recommended oil, and I've tried using Rotella T 5w40 before which is really known for cleaning everything up... and the oil still comes out the most black out of all my cars.



Whats it look like under the valve covers? Dump some MMO in on your next change. And never go higher then 3rd or 4th gear for the duration of the OCI. That should keep things hot enough to cook off the goop.
Oil coming out black isn't really a bad thing either.
 
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Running yor engine at 80% of the rated rpm under load frees up the piston rings up and blows out carbon deposits.
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Running yor engine at 80% of the rated rpm under load ....


I drive my truck like that all the time :)).

My dad used to do it when I was a kid, I remember him scaring the heck out of me once when I rode along.
 
I make a point of doing a modest ITU about once a week, since my wife uses the car for a lot of short, slow, in-town errands.

I usually make sure everything is warm, and accelerate at 80-90% power and/or 80-90% revs a few times, topping out at 70-75mph from 5mph.

So, what's the BEST way to do a ITU? Best conditions for ITU?
 
Quick question guys: I've had great results with the ITU in the past, but I have to admit I'm afraid to in my 97 Subie with 201k. The motor runs very well, but screams at anything over 4k RPM.

I'm using RTS now, and don't burn much oil, if any. I do a bit of heavy load driving, but never anything at high RPM. Leave it be or would a good romp up to 5k+ be beneficial? The tranny in these old Subies are very finicky so I've been trying not to put an additional strain on it - auto tranny.
 
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