Found the Best Way to Perform an Induction Service

[The Critic]

BG requires their service providers to use the #9210 pressurized "inject-a-flush" apparatus to deliver the BG ISC chemical for an induction service. As an alternative to the costly device, I think I've found a solution that will deliver nearly the same results. In the picture above, I have a 30" long straw attached to a can of Amsoil Powerfoam. The straw has two small holes at one end, which allows it to deliver a "fan" of the cleaner. Here's why I think this solution will work just as well as BG's method:

1. By using this straw, you are able to feed the chemical SLOWLY, thus eliminating any chance of hydrolock.

2. With the long straw, you are now able to introduce the chemical through the intake manifold. This is the best way of introducing the chemical since on some vehicles, a vacuum line may not allow the chemical to reach all cylinders.

3. The quantity of chemical is just as important as the rate at which it is being introduced. When the chemical is introduced slowly, say over the course of five minutes, it will slowly and continuously clean the intake valves, piston tops and the intake area. When you quickly feed a large quantity of chemical into a vacuum line and stall the engine (as directed by the SeaFoam website), the chemical isn't able to reach all portions of the induction system.

4. There are two small holes at one end of the straw, which allows you to deliver a "mist" or a "cloud" of the chemical so that the chemical will thoroughly clean the gunk from the entire intake manifold. Personally, I think that's the reason why BG's device is essentially a high-pressure mister that is placed at the entrance of the intake manifold-- so that the chemical mist can slowly soften the build-up inside the manifold.

What do you guys think?

 

[JOD]

This is pretty much how the 3M intake cleaner kit works: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RX5J5kZLTw4

The hose goes from the can of intake cleaner to just in front of the throttle body. You just bend the hose into a 'U-shape' and direct it to the IM, then re-attach the air intake hose.

I imagine you could do this with any can of intake cleaner--though the 3M cleaner has a 'lock' on it. It takes about 10+ minutes to finish the can, so it would be pretty annoying to have someone standing there forever while the can empties...

I used this about a week before I changed my plugs (which involved removing the IM), and the intake valves were spotless. Of course, I have no clue what they would have looked like if I hadn't done this, so I can't really make any claims that it 'worked'. Still, seems like it's not a horrible idea to do every few years.

 

[simple_gifts]

Quote:

What do you guys think?


I think that straw is a lot harder to lose in the manifold 8)

 

[tom slick]

Where'd you get the straw, it's pretty cool!

The inject-a-flush apparatus also connects to the fuel rail and runs solvent through the injectors so you are only half way there with The Critic apparatus.

 

[Cup of Joe]

That is exactly the same attachment seafoam says to use with deep creep on some engines.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/projects-dee...ke-engines.html

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
I think that straw is a lot harder to lose in the manifold 8)

No kidding.

Originally Posted By: tom slick
Where'd you get the straw, it's pretty cool!

The inject-a-flush apparatus also connects to the fuel rail and runs solvent through the injectors so you are only half way there with The Critic apparatus.


I got the straw directly from SeaFoam.

Yeah, I still need to find a device that will connect directly to the fuel rail. I heard that HF sells something similar to the BG tool for much less money.

Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
That is exactly the same attachment seafoam says to use with deep creep on some engines.

http://www.seafoamsales.com/projects-dee...ke-engines.html


Yup, that's the one I have. Now the question is, should I stuff the straw completely into the manifold, or not?

 

[Nederlander75]

Wouldnt a spray bottle at the intake mouth after the filtered air inlet work too?

 

[Eddie]

Think this would work on DI engines with crudded up intake valve back sides?

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

you could use the straight straw for a final shooting at the end, to hit the back. my car has big throttle body opening at the front so i just use the straight straw and shoot it from all angles thru the butterfly, trying to get the intake ports also and floor and corners

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
Think this would work on DI engines with crudded up intake valve back sides?


Definitely, but the heavy build-up on the DI engine usually requires manual cleaning to remove. On a DI engine, if you don't start performing induction services early on (i.e. 10k miles), you will never be able to keep the induction system clean.

 

[Eddie]

I am at 29,000 miles now.

 

[Nederlander75]

Im at 27K now on my Speed6 with no performance issues as yet. Terry also suggested from the UOA that there is no indication of valve deposits. I did not question more. I have since had a BG service before installing new oil and have nothing to note from it. However, I had been using Shell V Power exclusively and my revs stay at 3K for around 60 minutes a day, in 2 stints.

 

[Loobed]

Originally Posted By: The Critic


1. By using this straw, you are able to feed the chemical SLOWLY, thus eliminating any chance of hydrolock.


What do you guys think?



It might be too slow. It may just burn in the combustion chamber rather then coat the interior. You want to almost choke the engine then turn if off and let it soak.

 

[chevrofreak]

That's why I just open the throttle blade and fill the intake until it can't hold any more, then bump the engine over to suck it down into the cylinders. Repeat until empty.

 

[Eddie]

Where to find the straw & cleaner here in SW Florida?

 

[Loobed]

Originally Posted By: Eddie
Where to find the straw & cleaner here in SW Florida?


Since you (Florida) are almost an Island, you can find the stuff at a boat/marine center. Yamaha, Evinrude, Mercury, etc all sell the same relabeled stuff for their engines.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Loobed
It might be too slow. It may just burn in the combustion chamber rather then coat the interior. You want to almost choke the engine then turn if off and let it soak.



On a lot of cars, if you keep the idle speed at or near idle, a lot of the cleaner pools somewhere in the manifold-- it doesn't go away until you rev up the engine.

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
Im at 27K now on my Speed6 with no performance issues as yet. Terry also suggested from the UOA that there is no indication of valve deposits. I did not question more. I have since had a BG service before installing new oil and have nothing to note from it. However, I had been using Shell V Power exclusively and my revs stay at 3K for around 60 minutes a day, in 2 stints.


You've got to be kidding me.

There is NO WAY that you could possibly tell if you have intake system deposits through an UOA. Period. Someone is just blowing smoke here.