Toyota ATF question

[e40]

My 2003 Toyota Sienna calls for:

"Toyota Genuine ATF D-II or DexronIII (DexronII)"

The van was always dealer serviced, so I assume that there is Toyota ATF in it now, and I just want to do a drain / fill. (Not a flush). What type of fluid can I buy that won't conflict with what's in there now? (Because much of it will be left over in the torque converter, etc..)

From what I hear, the Type T-IV is a different animal, and should not be used in this particular vehicle..

 

[PT1]

Any of the major branded multi-vehicle ATF's that meet DexronIII specs should work fine. Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline. If you have a drain bolt don't forget the crush washer as Toyota uses them on everything. I would do a drain fill every 20k with that thing as DexIII is not very expensive. You can also do an easy cooler line flush with Toyotas and get all of the old fluid out. Way easy to do.

 

[lexus114]

Mobil-1 full synthetic multi vehicle.

 

[e40]

Well, I'll be pulling my cooler lines this week to install an auxilary cooler. (I'm starting to tow a light 1500lb popup camper).

They are slip-on connections, so they are easy to take off. I have plenty of 11/32 ID cooler line. Perhaps I could fashion a couple of long lines, one to a large container of the new ATF, and the 'output' line in an empty container. So just draw in the new ATF until it looks clean?

Otherwise, I'd probably just extract as much as possible with my Pella extractor from the dipstick tube.

Thanks for the idea.

 

[bepperb]

Any of the universal ATF's will be fine.

 

[hate2work]

I'd use Amsoil ATF.

 

[JTK]

Originally Posted By: PT1
Any of the major branded multi-vehicle ATF's that meet DexronIII specs should work fine. Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline. If you have a drain bolt don't forget the crush washer as Toyota uses them on everything. I would do a drain fill every 20k with that thing as DexIII is not very expensive. You can also do an easy cooler line flush with Toyotas and get all of the old fluid out. Way easy to do.


+1. It's a great Aisin-Warner AT in this van. That's pretty much all Toyota uses for ATs.

Joel

 

[unDummy]

If you're towing, consider a full synthetic. Mobil1, Amsoil, Redline, Amalie, Royal Purple.... are some to consider.
Minimally, I would use a blend like Mercon-V or import-type universal multi-vehicle ATF.
The regular Dex/Merc ATFs are not worth saving a buck over.

The ATF cooler is a great upgrade. Add in inline filter while you're at it.

 

[PT1]

Originally Posted By: e40
Well, I'll be pulling my cooler lines this week to install an auxilary cooler. (I'm starting to tow a light 1500lb popup camper).

They are slip-on connections, so they are easy to take off. I have plenty of 11/32 ID cooler line. Perhaps I could fashion a couple of long lines, one to a large container of the new ATF, and the 'output' line in an empty container. So just draw in the new ATF until it looks clean?

Otherwise, I'd probably just extract as much as possible with my Pella extractor from the dipstick tube.

Thanks for the idea.


Just put the outlet line in a bucket. Have a helper start the engine and shut off quickly when the flow stops and starts spitting bubbles. Add 2-3 quarts in the dipstick fill tube. Repeat until it flows clean. Reconnect hose, top off fluid level with dipstick. Run vehicle 5 miles to allow fluid to expand. Re-check & top off or extract overage. Done.

Just don't let the trans run dry.

 

[JustinC25]

I'm a former Toyota Tech. At the dealership we used either Valvoline, or Mobil Dexron III ATF in these transmissions.
Any standard Dexron III will be fine.
Also don't forget to drain the diff.

On this van there are 2 drain plugs, but both fill from the Trans dipstick tube. You will need a 10mm allen socket to loosen these plugs. DON'T USE A 3/8" Allen bit. YOU WILL ROUND OFF THE PLUG !!
You can get the socket at sears for about 3 bucks.

Justin

 

[ionbeam22]

Pretty much any modern multi-vehicle ATF will work. I'd use a modern fluid that meets Dex/Merc standards vs using a straight Dex/Merc III fluid since that fluid will be of lower quality (since it can't meet newer standards)

 

[crinkles]

Originally Posted By: PT1
Any of the major branded multi-vehicle ATF's that meet DexronIII specs should work fine. Pennzoil, Castrol, Valvoline. If you have a drain bolt don't forget the crush washer as Toyota uses them on everything. I would do a drain fill every 20k with that thing as DexIII is not very expensive. You can also do an easy cooler line flush with Toyotas and get all of the old fluid out. Way easy to do.


my U241E pan uses a flat washer on the trans drain pan.

 

[e40]

OK, I got the trans cooler installed, and flushed the fluid as described.

I believe I added the correct quantity. However, the oil line was at the 'Cool' mark on dipstick this morning. (As expected). But, after driving it 15 miles or so, I expected it to climb to the 'Hot' mark, but it's at about the same place, about half way up the 'cool' range. It's 47 degrees outside, maybe it's not getting warm enough to expand and reach the hot mark? Very strange.. I might add another 1/2 quart and see where it goes.

 

[mikeg5]

Originally Posted By: e40
OK, I got the trans cooler installed, and flushed the fluid as described.

I believe I added the correct quantity. However, the oil line was at the 'Cool' mark on dipstick this morning. (As expected). But, after driving it 15 miles or so, I expected it to climb to the 'Hot' mark, but it's at about the same place, about half way up the 'cool' range. It's 47 degrees outside, maybe it's not getting warm enough to expand and reach the hot mark? Very strange.. I might add another 1/2 quart and see where it goes.


the only way to get a proper reading is to make sure the tranny is at operation temp and leave the car running in park (of course) and get out and check the dipstick while the motor is running.. if its short then add.. i would add a 1/2 qt at a time.

 

[lexus114]

Crouch down and physically touch the transmission oil pan.Thats how I judge if its hot or warm.Probably sounds a little stupid,but it works for me.

 

[chad8]

I had a 2000 sienna with about 125000 miles on it. The transmission was getting a bit sluggish and not shifting well when cold. I had a local shop , with my instruction , put a can of b-g transmission quick clean in and drive it for 20 minutes . then we let it set for an hour or so . They used bulk dex 3 (valvoline i think) for the flush ,but use the machine that works by just ex changing fluid through the cooler lines and not pumping it through. We finished it up by using b-g atc plus . I have also done this in my ranger pickup. Both transmissions work like new. That toyota transmission was close to bullet proof if you treat it right. I really like b-g products . They are one of a very select few I will use.

 

[MonumentOiler]

It can take more than 15 miles to get the transmission oil up to temp. It doesn't get any direct heat and takes much longer to warm than the engine.

I found even high speed runs would only slowly raise the temp since there was no heat generating slippage with the torque converter locked up. Low speed crawling up a mountain in low gear works nice!

 

[Ken2]

Quote:
So just draw in the new ATF until it looks clean?

Won't work. The flow into the transmission from the cooler is just a drop into the sump. As said above, pump out a quart or two, stop the engine, add that amount down the dipstick tube, and pump more out, etc., etc. Drain and refill the sump first with clean ATF.

Yes, put tubes on both cooler lines into your waste oil bucket. This prevents the mess if you put one tube on the wrong line!

 

[chad8]

Originally Posted By: Ken2
Quote:
So just draw in the new ATF until it looks clean?

Won't work. The flow into the transmission from the cooler is just a drop into the sump. As said above, pump out a quart or two, stop the engine, add that amount down the dipstick tube, and pump more out, etc., etc. Drain and refill the sump first with clean ATF.

Yes, put tubes on both cooler lines into your waste oil bucket. This prevents the mess if you put one tube on the wrong line!

It is a lot easier and faster to put one cooler line in the waste bucket (output) and draw the new coolant through the other.use 2- 5 gallon buckets. that way you do not need to keep filling the dipstick hole and potentially creating air pockets. when the waste bucket starts showing clean fluid shut the van off. reconnect the lines. check the fluid level . Done!

 

[mikeg5]

Originally Posted By: chad8
Originally Posted By: Ken2
Quote:
So just draw in the new ATF until it looks clean?

Won't work. The flow into the transmission from the cooler is just a drop into the sump. As said above, pump out a quart or two, stop the engine, add that amount down the dipstick tube, and pump more out, etc., etc. Drain and refill the sump first with clean ATF.

Yes, put tubes on both cooler lines into your waste oil bucket. This prevents the mess if you put one tube on the wrong line!

It is a lot easier and faster to put one cooler line in the waste bucket (output) and draw the new coolant through the other.use 2- 5 gallon buckets. that way you do not need to keep filling the dipstick hole and potentially creating air pockets. when the waste bucket starts showing clean fluid shut the van off. reconnect the lines. check the fluid level . Done!


i have not heard that one before. it does sound logical however that will not work for my truck.