What rustproofing (DIY) is good?

[jcwit]

Wonder if Krown would be as big as they are is they did away with drilling holes and charged $300 to $500 inb labor for the installer to remove all the door panels and inside rear panels, ect., ect.

Body shop men do not work cheap and that is what we're talking about here as far as removing panels. Further more would not the metal be prone to getting scratched as the worker had to do hid job in a short time frame, thus causing a place for rust to start.

Doing your own is one thing, doing it as a business and making money at it is an entirely different matter. There is an old adage (TIME IS MONEY)!!!!

 

[Bluestream]

All valid points, a shop can not spend the time when they need to do volume as it is not cost effective.

My experience with rustproofing started in the 70's with Ziebart. They used a tar like substance that traped water under it and made metal rust faster. They drilled a lot of holes for show. Then a different local place started up and gave new car dealers a big kick-back for each car they sent. Car dealers loved them, and really pushed the sale to people who knew nothing. They used a wax like undcoating that was useless, and went out of business after a while. Again lots of holes drilled. When a hole is drilled bare metal is exposed and it needs to be painted, or grease put on to stop any rust. My Mazda had rust on every hole drilled in it. Worst was that way too many holes were put in just to look good. (My Used 99 Grand AM has holes and they have no rust BTW)

Last guy I dealt with before I started to do my own was good, and would do the job with no holes, or maybe just a few as needed. If you saw him work, you would know what I mean.

You need to add up the economics of appylying this stuff every year. If the warranty requires you to come back every year, and they charge $125 a shot. That's $1,875 over 15 years. A 15 year old vehicle may be worth a $1,000 at best..

Keep in mind the OP was looking for DIY methods of rustproofing. My point in all of my posts is that holes may be needed, but most shops put in more than they need to please a customer, or will drill a hole to save time. (For instance the rocker area can be accessed from below with rubber plugs that the car comes with from the factory.)

 

[Kestas]

Bluestream is spot on with his assessments. I too have surveyed the different rustproofing compounds, and came up with the same conclusions.

One thing that bears repeating is that rustproofing is not a one-shot deal. It constantly needs to be replenished on a timely basis during the life of the vehicle.

 

[jcwit]

Originally Posted By: Bluestream
They used a wax like undcoating that was useless


Known as ALOX, we also use it here in the states as a lube for cast lead bullets. It is a good rustproofing material as the shipping industry uses it to prevent rust aboard ocean going vessals, also the R/R's us it to prevent rust on equipment. Trouble is its not to friendly to the enviroment, and leaves drips that are almost impossible to remove.

My local Rust Check dealer told me for new cars to apply every year to keep the warrenty current. For my used car he stated every other year would be OK as no warrenty is offered. Whether or no even if the car is only worth $1000 but looks excellent I would continue to take care of it, just so it looks good. I've been known to wax a 20 year old car.

Any way it seems we finally got common sense to prevail regarding this supject.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: Bluestream
All valid points, a shop can not spend the time when they need to do volume as it is not cost effective.

My experience with rustproofing started in the 70's with Ziebart. They used a tar like substance that traped water under it and made metal rust faster. They drilled a lot of holes for show. Then a different local place started up and gave new car dealers a big kick-back for each car they sent. Car dealers loved them, and really pushed the sale to people who knew nothing. They used a wax like undcoating that was useless, and went out of business after a while. Again lots of holes drilled. When a hole is drilled bare metal is exposed and it needs to be painted, or grease put on to stop any rust. My Mazda had rust on every hole drilled in it. Worst was that way too many holes were put in just to look good. (My Used 99 Grand AM has holes and they have no rust BTW)

Last guy I dealt with before I started to do my own was good, and would do the job with no holes, or maybe just a few as needed. If you saw him work, you would know what I mean.

You need to add up the economics of appylying this stuff every year. If the warranty requires you to come back every year, and they charge $125 a shot. That's $1,875 over 15 years. A 15 year old vehicle may be worth a $1,000 at best..

Keep in mind the OP was looking for DIY methods of rustproofing. My point in all of my posts is that holes may be needed, but most shops put in more than they need to please a customer, or will drill a hole to save time. (For instance the rocker area can be accessed from below with rubber plugs that the car comes with from the factory.)


IIRC, when my Expedition was done, there were only four holes drilled. Two in the rockers and two to get access to the inner fender at the rear. The rest of it was done using access holes and factory plugs that were already there. This was at Krown.

They pull the tail lights to spray the back part of the rear inner fenders instead of drilling holes.

I have also never seen rust around the holes on vehicles we've had rustproofed, and that has been with Krown and RustCheck, and the Lincoln is 20 years old.

 

[1993_VG30E_GXE]

Kestas would you happen to have a photo of your setup? How do I attach the brake line to the end of the gun.

 

[Kestas]

I machined an adapter to replace the spray nozzle. I chased some threads on the brake tube to match the threads I tapped into the adapter.

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: Bluestream
StevieC, sounds like everything you do or own is perfect; this must be nice...


Grow up!

 

[StevieC]

Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL

IIRC, when my Expedition was done, there were only four holes drilled. Two in the rockers and two to get access to the inner fender at the rear. The rest of it was done using access holes and factory plugs that were already there. This was at Krown.

They pull the tail lights to spray the back part of the rear inner fenders instead of drilling holes.

I have also never seen rust around the holes on vehicles we've had rustproofed, and that has been with Krown and RustCheck, and the Lincoln is 20 years old.


You had me curious so I went out into the parking lot and looked at my truck (at work), and there was only 4 holes drilled and the rest must be done through factory holes there for other things. I also remember them taking the rear tail lights off to spray the rear body panels.

I say let the fuss-pots who think holes aren't necessary take apart their vehicles and do it the hard way because they worry about small little access holes. There are a lot more holes in the doors filled up by switches etc. from the factory than itty-bitty holes Krown puts in to do a through job.

Again 20 year old Caravan with over 460K KM (287K miles) posted above is proof that there is no harm in putting some holes for better access and better protection.

To each their own I guess!

 

[TurboLuver]

It's hard to argue with Stevie's Caravan! If we had a Krown shop here I would be all over it.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: TurboLuver
It's hard to argue with Stevie's Caravan! If we had a Krown shop here I would be all over it.


20 year old Town Car (my signature):

 

[TurboLuver]

That's looks great, was krown applied every year to the townie?

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: TurboLuver
That's looks great, was krown applied every year to the townie?


It started off on RustCheck, and then switched to Krown. And yes, every year.

 

[StevieC]

OVERK1LL Save your breath, there are others in this forum that still won't believe us.

 

[jcwit]

I believe, i believe. My appointment is 9-14-09 at Rust Check, remember it's all we have here in the states. My wifes sister lives in the Detroit area and thought about going to Krown in Windsor, but I'd have to get passports now and thats another $80.00.

 

[StevieC]

Even at the cost of the application and the cost of passports it's still a wise investment to have it done. Passports are good up here for 5 years (I'm assuming yours are too), so it's not that bad spread over 5 years.

 

[jcwit]

Is the Krown that much better over the Rust Check on a used car?

 

[StevieC]

They are both excellent products, I just like the Krown for a few reasons:

1) It's environmentally friendly
2) It's solvent free and doesn't become acidic if you stop treating your vehicle after time. (Krown is PH neutral)
3) The Krown guys are certified each year to know the "trouble" areas on each type of vehicle so your vehicle is guaranteed to be protected.
4) They have locked in pricing, what you pay the first year is what you will pay every year. If you are a CAA (AAA) member you save even more.

Other than that they are the same IMO.

 

[Drew2000]

FWIW, US passports are good for 10 years, $75 renewal.

 

[StevieC]

Ours are 5 years and cost $85 I believe... Can't remember I renewed mine a while ago and it isn't due until 2012.